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Everything posted by Bender

  1. Hi Robin, i would need 1.5" for the top dust cap. The 2 links above look interesting, not sure how deep the caps are to hold on tight.
  2. I was hoping for an easier solution
  3. I spent the last couples of days looking for 38mm (1.5”) eyepiece caps for my Tak LEs. surprising how hard it is to find something as basic as this . Does someone would have a pointer where to find a handful?
  4. I still have the original Ayo Traveler mount, worked like a dream with my ED100. For anything bigger the Ayo II would be perfect
  5. Thats a good start i am happy with Cheshire/Catseye collimation, just wanted to confirm that i use the right mark on my primary to do so. Now i just have to work out what the difference between infocus and outfocus star image means. I am visual observer only and generally happy with the views, but interesting to see if my OO mirrors live up to premium you pay.
  6. Thanks for the link alacant, by the sounds of it, when collimating the scope with your primary spot (which is my Catseye hotspot) and the star image is not asymmetrically skewed than you primary spot should be placed reasonably correct.
  7. It has been a while since my last post, as i don’t seem to have the same spare time I used to have. I decided a while ago on a simple setup, a 10” OO dob with binoviewer for longer sessions and a 6” OO tube on a small photo tripod as grab and go scope. Both with their top spec mirrors. To help with collimation I got Catseye primary sticker for both, and in both cases found the existing primary spot (which I wasn’t able to remove – but I didn’t try to hard) to be a few millimetres of from the Catseye spots. It has bugged me since then if I placed the Catseye correctly. Yesterday I all the sudden had the epiphany that a simple star test should show if, when collimated with the Catseye spot, the scope is proper collimated or not. Infocus showed nice concentric circles when pointing the 6” at Polaris with a 6mm ortho, so I can assume that my Catseye sticker placement was correct after all? Seeing wasn’t perfect with a slightly unstable image and flaring showing but the circles showed clear enough. Now one thing I noticed was the stark difference between infocus and outfocus. I attached a rather bad drawing. In focus I saw a middle spot and 1-3 ? rings around (depending on focuser travel) all with the same brightness, and a outerring, which was considerably brighter. Out focus I only saw a bright ring and maybe, a realy dark middle spot and ring inside the bright one. I only started Suiters book on star testing, but it sounds both infocus and outfocus should look similar?
  8. do they only work as pairs in binoviewers ? - edit: should have read you report first ! I was kinda hopping I am all set with my 3 Tak LE pairs
  9. I use my 100ED f9 only for planetary with either a Take LE 5mm or TV 6-3mm To make life easier with my alt az mounts I would grab a Tak LE 30 and 12.5mm for lower mags. (There are better and more reasonable choices out there, but I have them anyway for my binoviewer. Better eye relief and form factor then TV plossl)
  10. Good idea, I try this, is not much I need. Just thought after investing in the oo scope and collimation tools I try to get it as good as I can
  11. Thanks Shane, yes the washers did the job. Was a bit worried they might leave marks on the tube but what can you do. Yes it is a oo UK scope. The ring on top of the ota is round so I took it from there
  12. I followed the instruction that came with the cats eye set. I think flo has the book as well (new perspectives on Newtonian collimating) I only started as I couldn't properly centre the secondary in the sight tube. It was offset to the right so it kinda made sense to lift the focuser slightly in the right side.
  13. After receiving my new dob I went out to order the cats eye kit and then took the ota apart to instal the cats eye dot on the primary. While I was on it I thought I might as well flock the upper and lower part of the tube. I then started the collimating process, making sure the 4 spider vanes are equally long (tick), the focuser is perpendicular to focal axis (holding a ruler in front of the Cheshire and on the opposite side of the tube, tick). Then I inserted the secondary screw on its own and checked if the cross in the Cheshire lines up with the screw to see if the focuser points towards the primary axis. Unfortunately it just touched the outside of the screw.. Turning the Cheshire, the focuser and finally the focuser base by 180 degrees didn't change anything so it seems ota is slightly oblated? 2 washer on one side between focuser base and ota brought the Cheshire in the focuser in line with the screw from the secondary. I can't find much that other people had similar problems, might there be anything I am missing ?
  14. Still debating the best way on how to improve on my 100ed / Quark combo. I got a TV 40mm plossl to get the magnification down and would like to go a bit lower. As a reducer in front of the plossl wouldn't help with the small fov I rather try to use a reducer in front of the quark. I saw a picture from Stu, he had the Orion 2" 0.8x in front of the quark. the 0.8x would get me down to an fl of 7.2, still within the recommended range. Looking for recommendations for a reducer with filter thread to fit my 2" UV/IR cut filter in front. Idealy with a 2" nose piece and a T2 thread on the other side to fit a 2" ep holder. Don't wnt to spend more then I have to, but on the other hand after investing in the whole set up, dont want to save at the wrong end either. The Baader 2" deluxe ep holder has a light path of 53mm, close to the 55mm back focus recommended. Not sure though where exactly the focal plane of the Quark is. The versions from Orion, Altair Astro and Long Perm look all similar, but show a wide range of price http://www.scsastro.co.uk/catalogue/orion-08x-focal-reducer-for-refractors-8894.htm http://www.altairastro.com/lightwave-0.8x-reducer.html http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p7942_Long-Perng-2--0-8x-Reducer-and-Corrector-for-APO-Refractor-Telescopes.html Then for twice as much is the TV reducer Thanks Andre
  15. Thanks, I had a look and found for the Antares 0.7 2" reducer measurements how the magnification will work out. The reducer needs 78mm and I think I have 90 between the fr and the shiny bit inside the quark nose piece. This would give me 0.75x reduction, perfect The only problem is that the Antares fr doesn't seem to have a filter thread for the uv ir cut filter. How does the fr affect the in/ out travel need ? Do I have to rack out further with the fr in place. (The orange card board is an attempt to deal with the excessive er of the 40mm TV plossl )
  16. I used my 100ed a few times with a Quark and quite enjoyed the views. This morning the views with my TV40mm plossl were amazing. I'm tried to get my head around the use of focal reducer but I am still confused. If I would like to turn my f9 scope into a let's say f7.5 with not only the lower magnification but also wider views a 40mm plossl would give in a generic f7.5 refractor, how would I go about it. Focal reducer in front of the quark or eyepiece, or doesn't it matter. I also read a fr will increase the bandwidth of the quark. Lastly, I used the quark a few times and only noticed today that on side of the fob was darker then the rest. Is this what people called banding ?
  17. Will be interesting, I nearly ordered a TS clone of the steeltrack as the baader version is no longer available. After reading this thread I decided to hold off and hope the new baader version is out soon
  18. The only problem would be the weight. I try to stay below 4.5 kg for the ota as my small ayotraveller on a berlebach report tripod takes only 6kg, but with 3kg total it's a perfect travel setup.
  19. I am looking for recommendations for a 100 - 120mm scope that I will primarily use with my Quark ha ep. I had a 80ed which gave nice views but wasn't bright enough so I tried a 80/480 scope which again was good but lacked something. Finally I tried the quark in my 100ed and was quite please but the magnification is borderline. As I like the 100ed as a light weight grab and go I was now thinking of maybe adding another faster scope that will be mostly used with the quark. Some people like the startravel 102 f5, other found it not as good as a ed scope, even with a narrowband quark. TS stocks Bresser 102/600 achros which are closer to the recommended fl range. Which scopes worked for you that don't cost an arm and a leg.
  20. Hope it is ok to join in with a question. Since the Baader steel track are not available anymore, has anyone experience with the TS acu clone (looks the same as my OO UK aco focuser on my vx10) I would like to upgrade the focuser on my 100ed and its either the new baader clones or a moonlite.
  21. The mpcc in the pic looks like the mark ii, the mark iii has grey print not green. Difference is I believe that the mark ii works till f4.5 and the new mark iii for even faster scopes, so both might be ok for you
  22. Does someone know what's the thread size on a Daystar Qyark, when I unscrew the ep holder, and if there is a Baader adapter to attach a T2 quick changer to it, to fit a binoviewer to the quark.
  23. One more question for quark owner. Does the 1.25" nose piece of the quark have a filter thread. I understand that my 80ed is right on the cusp of scope sizes recommended to use a uv ir blocker. But if I would get a filter, would it be enough to screw it in the nose piece or does it have to go before the diagonal to protect the diagonal as well as the quark?
  24. if you use the quark in front of the diagonal, will this increase the barlow factor of 4.2? Or is this independent is the distance between quark and ep.
  25. Thanks for the picture Stu, the setup is bigger then my 80ed I think I place an order for a quark and then see how it goes.
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