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AstroRuz

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Everything posted by AstroRuz

  1. What a great idea. I imagine this can also be easily adapted to fit OTAs of any size as well. Price saving for sure. May need to try this out myself sometime
  2. Hi everyone, hope you're all having a good start to 2023! Not so much for me here in the Midlands, not a clear sky yet In case you're stuck for targets to photograph this month, I put together a website article as well as a monthly video that covers a wide variety of focal lengths and cameras for your consideration to image! You can find the video on YouTube called The Night Sky January As well as The Night Sky January post on my website. So what are you looking forwards to this month? Let's get a discussion going so we can all share our ideas
  3. I noticed that SVBony did re-upload my SV105 video and my SV eyepiece review. No I wasn't too keen on it. I could copyright claim it if I want, but they've not had many views so it hasn't exactly "taken" anything from me. I do appreciate tagging me in this though to bring it to my attention
  4. Hey mate thanks for the comparison! Yep it certainly looks like that nebula. Such a busy region! Nice image as well and thanks for clarifying for me
  5. Hey everyone Here's a WIP of a HOO Bubble Nebula. I see this large gradient in the bottom right. I've had a look at some reference images but I'm undecided whether that's light pollution/light leakage or is actually supposed to be there? I could see it clearly in Lum images but less so in 10 minute 7nm Ha/OIII images. There is a street light that was close by, but to my knowledge wasn't shining directly into the OTA, and also whenever I've seen light pollution gradients especially on telescope focal lengths it's just a totally even gradient through the whole image. So do you think that's light leak/pollution or nebulosity? ZWO ASI 183mm Pro, SW 80ED + reducer, Optolong Ha & OIII filters Any thoughts are kindly appreciated! Thanks
  6. Hey everyone. Today I published my video for deep sky targets for a variety of focal lengths, planets, events and lunar phases that I feel are interesting to photograph. It's on my YouTube channel as The Night Sky July hope you check it out and enjoy!
  7. Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it! Always do my best to be honest and unbiased Aha that would be pretty good if @FLO did that. Maybe not live, but an extended working holiday perhaps 😛 Though they supply me with toys to play with and that's more than enough But some more clear skies would always be good!
  8. Hey all, I completed my review of the SharpStar 61EDPH2 that was loaned to me from FLO. I find the scope to be very capable and extremely light and portable. The dew shield on my copy was very loose and often would slip back down, though the build quality, barring the shield, felt sturdy and solid. The focuser is geared and indexed so it has a lot of fine control and ease to reliably reach focus due to the index marks. It also has full rotation built into it. I suspect the glass is FPL51, however this isn't too far behind the more coveted FPL53. Being a triplet the telescope has good colour correction and has a bench test available also. I did enjoy the photos I took through the telescope. Natively it's 335mm f5, reduced to 275mm f4 with a full frame imaging circle. Though at its reduced value the telescope would enjoy being paired with cameras of about 2.4um pixels - the 183 is a perfect fit but then you can't capitalise on the enormous fov capable with this Telescope. Every other camera will probably under sample, however you can drizzle to help overcome this. The reducer in my copy added blue channel bloat to the images. I've seen this complained about elsewhere and in the video review I show comparisons and my findings that show the blue bloat. 2" filters fit nicely inside the reducers body after removing the lens element, a system I really enjoy. Ultimately I really, really loved the wide field of view this Telescope supplied. The telescope itself I think is good value for money when taking into account it's triple lenses. However I found the reducer (which is needed as the scope has bad field curvature) to stymie the full capabilities in my example I had. If SharpStar can find any issues with the reducer and rectify the blue bloat then I would find it very hard to not recommend this scope. As it stands I still recommend it, but give a "buyer beware" note about the blue channel. It can be fixed in post by reducing the blue channel independently but prevention is better than cure. I hope you enjoy the video and my review. The video is below, and links to the products can be found here also. They are affiliate links, if you buy through them then I get a small bit of compensation. Thanks for reading, clear skies everyone. Keep looking up and keep them cameras clicking. Telescope: https://bit.ly/36reB0i Reducer: https://bit.ly/2MGbURy
  9. I think I found the culprit. Here's a Hydrogen Alpha flat frame and I can see the "dust" going around the frame. Will have to re-shoot them I think.
  10. Hmm thanks you two. Yeah probably something went wrong somewhere. Or I've overstretched the data I have. I'll try again without flats maybe or re-shoot the flats.
  11. Hi all, I'm fairly new to LRGB mono imaging but I'm just wondering if this image of M106 has space dust around it, or is it poor calibration? I think it's dust because of the colour. But just thought I'd ask other opinions. Thanks! ASI 183mm Pro, Sky-Watcher 80ED, Optolong filters 3 min exposures LRGB, 10 mins for Ha
  12. Hey all, I made a video with a list of target I think could be interesting to image over April. I include targets at a variety of focal lengths - so hopefully you'll find something to suit your rig Enjoy!
  13. I'd find giving a talk about something fun 😁 Just gotta figure out what 😂
  14. Thanks Martin that's fine. Hmm so by the sounds of it then with the ASI183 being what I guess is a relatively modern-ish camera then it falls under the diminishing returns category then as you say, it's less relevant these days. So maybe I will just keep it 1x1 and not have to worry about loss of resolution. I intend on possibly printing anyway so I want all the resolution I can really. Bloating stars is always an aggrievance. I know how to deal with it, but prevention is better than cure after all. Many thanks! Yeah I've heard that being thrown around. I'm not sure either but I guess it's like imitating rather than being the real thing perhaps.
  15. Awesome. My plan is to use the ASI 183mm Pro on the Evostar 80ED (possibly without the reducer) on M81 & M82. Was going to bin my RGB and not the lum data to try and get a nice image from it. I thought about how you'd bin narrowband also but I guess that makes a lot of sense since emissions are mostly Ha so using Ha as the lum certainly makes a great deal of sense. I'll go forward with this suggestion I think! Certainly makes mono that much more appealing and/or justified with our British skies Thank you
  16. Thank you. I thought I was being clever, but it turns out it's quite tricky to pronounce for a lot of people 😅
  17. Excellent. So then I gather aside from the image resizing. If I bin 2x2 RGB I get a greater SnR (at the expense of resolution), and then putting a 1x1 Lum layer over the top to actually bring out the details is the correct way to go? Thanks. I feel more informed going into this evening now
  18. Ah right so they will be 2748 x 1836 pixels then? Makes sense I suppose pixels twice the size, half the resolution then. I'll probably be drizzling them 2x with DeepSkyStacker, although I have access to AstroPixel Processor as well as PixInsight which I have a trial for and no idea how to really use 😛
  19. Hey all, So tonight I might try binning my mono camera for the first time. Since I have extremely limited time. From what I understand, people bin their RGB channels as it's just the colour data that's needed. Then add a 1x1 image of the Lum channel over it to create the actual detail. Hence the entire point of using a lum filter. So from what I can gather the 2x2 RGB images (even though they're slightly undersampled) won't be too bad as I just want as much signal as I can get and they'll still be native resolution of 5496*3672 with the ASI 183mm Pro. They'll just be 4.2um pixels instead. Am I understanding this correctly? Many thanks, Ruzeen
  20. Hey all, Recently I've had to go back to using my Windows 10 Laptop and recently my Polemaster software has begun totally freezing and crashing on this laptop. IT works absolutely fine on my other laptop (which has since broken unfortunately) so I'm 99% sure the Polemaster itself is fine. Wondering if anyone else has encountered this? It doesn't matter if the PM is plugged directly into the laptop or into a USB hub or what. And when the PM software crashes it takes Astrophotography Tool down with it and such. Even if I run PM on its own and just use SynScan for mount control it crashes. Again it worked fine at one point and then just sort of stopped. I've uninstalled and reinstalled a fresh version of software from the website and still no improvement. Any help appreciated!
  21. It's been a while since I used GIMP but you should be able to select the mask layer itself (by clicking the thumbnail if it's there). Then take a black paint brush and paint on the mask where you want to hide. Paint white to show, paint gray for translucent
  22. A lot of people suggested just using WiFi routers and boosters, like a box that bounces the signal further. I find it good. It's not the best thing since sliced bread as there's several features I would like to see added but apparently they're always updating it. It certainly does streamline using ZWO equipment though and everything is all on board so no need to run about looking for other softwares which is definitely convenient and can power lots of devices so again, it has that added benefit
  23. Through 2019 I measured and logged any night that was clear for over 2 hours a night. I had 69 nights through the entire year. I didn't do that during 2020 but it didn't feel much better. So far in January 2021 I've had 3 nights 😂
  24. Any tablet should be fine. I use an old Hauwei P Smart to control my ASIAir Pro. The WiFi is pretty garbage on the Air Pro. 2.3 or 5 ghz WiFi just is the speed. 5 is faster but has a shorter range. I've not found 2.3 to be slow, sometimes it takes a my oment to download an image from the ASI183 because they're large files. Without looking too deep into specs I reckon that tablet will be fine. The app only programs the ASIAir Pro and displays images from what I've seen
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