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jarbi

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Everything posted by jarbi

  1. Yes indeed, but the secondary definitely needs heating with this setup. There is one hugh advantage of the secondary design: the mirror is not glued to anywhere. It is just genlty pushed down in the secondary cage with a layer of flexible foam. So whenever I need to replace this mirror it will be a piece of cake :-).
  2. Hi, Just to come back to my own topic: my 16" UL dobson has arrived end last year in excellent condition. I have already assembled it and I could take it out for observation. The quality of the optics is really good, I needed to do some tweaks to the mechanics but no major changes, CS, Janos
  3. Carole, Thanks for chiming in. My mount is connected to the PC with en EQMOD cable, and the slew is initiated from SGpro. So there is no gamepad involved, Cheers, Janos
  4. Hi, All of a sudden my AZEQ6 started a very strange behaviour in DEC. When I connect the mount via EQMOD and I send a Goto command to slew to a target, It stops for a second when the slew reaches the target coordinates( I see in in the EMOD monitor). After that, my mount is doing 5 more consequent slews in DEC without any visible reason ( tried with different targets). In the EQMOD monitor it shows no change in coordinates, but actually is slew about 10 degrees in DEC. When I send the mount to the Home position, this DEC offset stays, so it doesn't return to the original Home position. There is one single clue : when I disable the encoders in EQMOD, the mount works fine. What I have tried so far: - I have reinstalled the motor controller firmware, it is still 2.11.05 - reinstalled EQMOD from scratch - Resynced the encoders in EQMOD - I always do reset alignment data + Reset sync data before the first Goto - I have checked the DEC encoder, no visible damage. Reseated the encoder connectors. Non of these solved the issue. It would be great if someone had an idea what is going on here.... Cheers, Janos
  5. Hi, I would like to share my experience so far with you concerning the UL dobsons of Hubble Optics. To start with, I have purchased their UL 16" dobson end of May this year. They have advertised 3-5 weeks delivery time which would be acceptable. Now I am at week 10, and just received a message that my scope has still at least 6-8 weeks until it would arrive. It is pretty frustrating, but I cannot do anything about it. So, if you go for this design, be prepared for several months of waiting :-( CS, Janos
  6. Just to update my own question: apparently there is a DIP switch on this board ( just above the ARM chip in the middle ), and you have to set it according to the mount you are placing it in. I requested the info what should I set for an AZEQ6 mount.
  7. Hi All, I would like to share the follow-up of this story as far as it goes until now. The lockups of the camera kept happening even after disabling the power saving of the USB ports, and even when I connected the camera on a separate Usb port. I was also trying to revert to the legacy driver from 2018 which worked perfectly last year - no joy. The camera went for a revision to Atik somewhere in May this year, and I have a bad feeling that these issues started after... Finally I bit the bullet and I have sent the camera to Atik again for a hardware investigation a week ago. Hopefully they will come up with something because I am out of ideas... I will come back here soon when my camera returns, thanks again for everyone for your advises! When it is not a hardware issue it will be a hard nut to crack I am afraid, clear skies, Janos
  8. Hi Everyone, I was helping a friend to replace his damaged motor controller board on his AZEQ6 Synscan mount. This new board has an USB connector as well. Replacement went fine and we reconnected everything. After reassembling the mount works fine with the hand controller, USB connection to PC works as expected. But - there is one weirdness. When we tried to enter in the Utility menu for changing illumination of the polar scope in the handctontroller, we get the message "Not available for this mount" ! The illumination adjustment was well possible with the "old" motor board without USB, using the same V3 hand controller (latest firmware installed). We could test is with a different ( V4 ) handcontroller - exactly the same message. I have checked the connector and wires of the LED, certainly not damaged. We installed even the latest update for the motor controller, no joy... I would be grateful if someone could shed a light on this, no idea how could we fix this.... Clear skies, Janos
  9. Thanks for your helpful advises, I checked and indeed the USB power saving option was enabled. I have set it off now everywhere, so let’s hope it solves the lockup’s. For a test I must wait for the next clear evening Cheers, Janos
  10. Ok, I will check it this evening.
  11. Thanks Dr_Ju_ju, I am using Sgpro 3.0.3.169, this is the latest stable version. The loose USB port cannot be the reason, because an Asi 294 was running without interruption on the same USB hub the whole time. My fear that Window update did some "magic" somewhere which specifically affects the Atik software... The other day I have tested the issue with a previous version of the Atik and filterwheel driver- it made it even worse. I mailed Atik support as wel, but they are closed for business until the 3rd of September. Cheers, Janos
  12. Hi, My latest imaging sessions turned out to be a nightmare for unknown reason, here is what happened. I connected my Atik 11000 and then EFW2 filterwheel as usual to a powered USB hub and started my imaging session in Sgpro. After 2 frames the download of the next frame took forever, so I tried to stop the sequence - no chance, I had to kill it with Task manger. By restarting Sgpro the camera and filterwheel was not connecting anymore. Powered on and off both - now it was working again for some time, than the same lockup happened again. After 4-5 times repeating this annoying game the camera decided to work and I could do some imaging but lost more than an hour... The question is: what happened here and how can I solve it ? The same setup worked already countless times without a hick. I’m using a Windows 10 Pc with the latest Sgpro and Atik drivers. Looking in the Sgpro logs I only find the fact that the camera was disconnected. If anyone had similar experiences please give me a hint, Clear skies, Janos
  13. Hi, I have one suspection: you don't have enough stars in the field of view with the MAK, that is why plate solving fails. Maybe try to use 4x4 binning, so you have 16 times more sensitivity on the sensor. Hopefully you get is sorted out soon ! Clear skies, Janos
  14. Thanks ;-). I use this one instead of bending down: https://www.astromarket.org/monteringen-en-toebehoren/polar-finders/amici-prism-for-polar-finder-scope, very convenient ! As I experience a good manual alignment is more than enough for me and allows perfect guiding even on my 10" Skywatcher reflector.
  15. Julian en John, thanks for chiming in ! I decided to figure out how it's done EXACTLY, because the manual doesn't answer my question. So here it is how it works: 1, Remove the polar scope by using some kind of vice/jaws. I have protected the tube by surrondig it with a thick layer of textile before I tried to loosen it, but it was not difficult. 2, Focus the reticle as usual to see the hour marks sharply. 2, Now the tricky bit ;-). As I discovered, right behind the scaled silver ring is a smaller black ring, you need to loosen it to be able to focus the polar scope on a far object. In my case I needed the vice to turn the back part of the scope ( the whole piece right to the silver ring ). The thread was full of loctite I believe. But after that I was able to get to good focus. Now I have my reticle AND the stars sharp as well. In the good focus position I tightened the ring at the red arrow again to prevent turning the back side any further. There is a price for this though: it can happen - like I have experienced - that the hour positions in the polar scope are not correct anymore due to the fact that we have turned the back side of the scope ( including reticle ). In my case it was just a 20-30 degrees difference, so I inserted a thin washer under the polar scope (where it goes to the mount ) to solve this. That's it, I hope I could help other people in the same situation, Clear skies, Janos
  16. Hi, I have started to use my new mount and I don't find any instructions ( paper or online ) on this topic. What I exactly mean: by turning the back end of the polar scope I can focus the polar scope, but the reticle is not in focus when Polaris is focused. Before I start trying and tinkering maybe someone knows how to get the reticle and Polaris focused at the same time. My idea would be to focus the reticle first. After that I would need to know where/what else can I turn to reach focus on stars. My polar scope is already aligned with the RA axis btw, so those 3 grub screws are out of game ;-). Clear skies, Janos
  17. Hi, I use a Tokina 300mm AF pro f/2.8 lens on my modded Canon 1200D, works like a charm on the Star Adventurer. I can take up to 50s frames without guiding when it is balanced properly. You can see one example here: https://www.astrobin.com/297983/?image_list_page=2&nc=&nce= Clear skies, Janos
  18. Hi, Just to say I started to work with this program as well a week ago, it looks very promising. I have processed some images with it my Canon DSLR and the ASI071MC, I find it user friendly. Learning curve is much less steep than in Pixinsight, but to be fair PI is a complete package until final processing. The goal of Astro Pixel Processor is a good preprocessing as I see, but that part is done in very detailed way with advanced options, cheers, Janos
  19. Hi Louise, Thanks for your suggestion. I use a LED panel mostly, but I will try with room light next time and I will check out the thread you mentioned as well, Cheers, Janos
  20. Hi Louise, My one shot color camera is certainly more picky on this as I experience. Seeing the histogram of my flats, the red channel is falling out of the linear sensitivity range of my CCD, because it is much weaker than 30% of my full well capacity ( see histogram above ). Vlaiv has right,all three colors must be in the linear range to make good flats. But: with the idas filter attached it's impossible, because green and blue are getting saturated when red comes into the linear range. I will make new flats without the idas filter and it will prove or disprove my reasoning soon, Clear skies, Janos
  21. Hi vlaiv and Louise, Thank you for your advises, I need some time to digest your detailed answers and I will come to a solution soon. Vlaiv, I would like to respond to some of your questions already. First about the clipping: I have attached the histogram of the debayered flatfield from my test set in my previous reply. As you see there all 3 colors are present, red is much weaker though. Now I know a possible reason for it: my idas LPS filter was in the imaging train when I made the flats, and that is doing some serious clipping in red I believe. I live in a very light polluted suburban place ( mag 18 "skies" ) I take my frames always in Sequence Generator Pro, so whenever a non linearity would be present it is caused by the camera I would say. My offset was calibrated as in the QHY manual, with about 700 ADU mean pixel value on the BIAS. I am familiar with the calibration process you describe ( you may have a look at my photo's so far on Astrobin ), but with this camera I couldn't get along very well so far. I think you nailed it with your remark about the clipping on the flats ! My next move will be to take flats without the Idas filter with the same white flat panel, I should have thought about that earlier... I will come back here with hopefully good results. But until this weekend I will not have much time to work on it, working in IT is not a nine-to-five job mostly ;-), Clear skies, Janos
  22. I have created now a folder with a single light, flat, bias and dark frame: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5rc5Ssg9hE-VEhnLWMzOGNIQkk This way you have a complete set. Coming back to an earlier suggestion of Louise: I don't think it is frost or dew, because it happens with higher sensor temperatures as well. Yesterday evening I have checked the chip after making calibration frames at -25C, an it was not frosted. Cheers, Janos
  23. Thanks for your replies, nice to see so many people ready to help ;-). So, it is indeed one single frame. It is also true that I have posted first a stack on the QHY forum, but I didn't find a solution yet. I try now to minimize any effect of processing, that is why I posted a single frame. Coming back to the flat question: my flats show some border, but they don't help to eliminate them in the light frames. I have placed some fits and also debayered and stretched Flat frames here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5rc5Ssg9hE-T0prWmxleGh6R00 I can see some kind of border there but not in purple. These were made with gain =25 and with about 10,20,40 and 80% illumination. As you see on the histogram of the FIT-s, I get a double "bump", can it cause this problem ? Clear skies, Janos
  24. Hi, I am trying to figure out what is going on with my color CCD camera. As you see in the debayered and stretched frame attached, I get a purple border on the resulting image. The camera is calibrated for offset, I use 0 gain. This purple border is no showing up on the stretched flats, darks or Bias frames, just on the light frames. I am completely puzzled with this.. This cannot be vignetting as I see because the borders are square,what els can I do to narrow down the reason ? Any hint would be appreciated, Clear skies, Janos
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