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About jarbi

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  1. Just to update my own question: apparently there is a DIP switch on this board ( just above the ARM chip in the middle ), and you have to set it according to the mount you are placing it in. I requested the info what should I set for an AZEQ6 mount.
  2. Hi All, I would like to share the follow-up of this story as far as it goes until now. The lockups of the camera kept happening even after disabling the power saving of the USB ports, and even when I connected the camera on a separate Usb port. I was also trying to revert to the legacy driver from 2018 which worked perfectly last year - no joy. The camera went for a revision to Atik somewhere in May this year, and I have a bad feeling that these issues started after... Finally I bit the bullet and I have sent the camera to Atik again for a hardware investigation a week ago. Hopefully they will come up with something because I am out of ideas... I will come back here soon when my camera returns, thanks again for everyone for your advises! When it is not a hardware issue it will be a hard nut to crack I am afraid, clear skies, Janos
  3. Hi Everyone, I was helping a friend to replace his damaged motor controller board on his AZEQ6 Synscan mount. This new board has an USB connector as well. Replacement went fine and we reconnected everything. After reassembling the mount works fine with the hand controller, USB connection to PC works as expected. But - there is one weirdness. When we tried to enter in the Utility menu for changing illumination of the polar scope in the handctontroller, we get the message "Not available for this mount" ! The illumination adjustment was well possible with the "old" motor board without USB, using the same V3 hand controller (latest firmware installed). We could test is with a different ( V4 ) handcontroller - exactly the same message. I have checked the connector and wires of the LED, certainly not damaged. We installed even the latest update for the motor controller, no joy... I would be grateful if someone could shed a light on this, no idea how could we fix this.... Clear skies, Janos
  4. Thanks for your helpful advises, I checked and indeed the USB power saving option was enabled. I have set it off now everywhere, so let’s hope it solves the lockup’s. For a test I must wait for the next clear evening Cheers, Janos
  5. Ok, I will check it this evening.
  6. Thanks Dr_Ju_ju, I am using Sgpro, this is the latest stable version. The loose USB port cannot be the reason, because an Asi 294 was running without interruption on the same USB hub the whole time. My fear that Window update did some "magic" somewhere which specifically affects the Atik software... The other day I have tested the issue with a previous version of the Atik and filterwheel driver- it made it even worse. I mailed Atik support as wel, but they are closed for business until the 3rd of September. Cheers, Janos
  7. Hi, My latest imaging sessions turned out to be a nightmare for unknown reason, here is what happened. I connected my Atik 11000 and then EFW2 filterwheel as usual to a powered USB hub and started my imaging session in Sgpro. After 2 frames the download of the next frame took forever, so I tried to stop the sequence - no chance, I had to kill it with Task manger. By restarting Sgpro the camera and filterwheel was not connecting anymore. Powered on and off both - now it was working again for some time, than the same lockup happened again. After 4-5 times repeating this annoying game the camera decided to work and I could do some imaging but lost more than an hour... The question is: what happened here and how can I solve it ? The same setup worked already countless times without a hick. I’m using a Windows 10 Pc with the latest Sgpro and Atik drivers. Looking in the Sgpro logs I only find the fact that the camera was disconnected. If anyone had similar experiences please give me a hint, Clear skies, Janos
  8. Hi, I have one suspection: you don't have enough stars in the field of view with the MAK, that is why plate solving fails. Maybe try to use 4x4 binning, so you have 16 times more sensitivity on the sensor. Hopefully you get is sorted out soon ! Clear skies, Janos
  9. Thanks ;-). I use this one instead of bending down: https://www.astromarket.org/monteringen-en-toebehoren/polar-finders/amici-prism-for-polar-finder-scope, very convenient ! As I experience a good manual alignment is more than enough for me and allows perfect guiding even on my 10" Skywatcher reflector.
  10. Julian en John, thanks for chiming in ! I decided to figure out how it's done EXACTLY, because the manual doesn't answer my question. So here it is how it works: 1, Remove the polar scope by using some kind of vice/jaws. I have protected the tube by surrondig it with a thick layer of textile before I tried to loosen it, but it was not difficult. 2, Focus the reticle as usual to see the hour marks sharply. 2, Now the tricky bit ;-). As I discovered, right behind the scaled silver ring is a smaller black ring, you need to loosen it to be able to focus the polar scope on a far object. In my case I needed the vice to turn the back part of the scope ( the whole piece right to the silver ring ). The thread was full of loctite I believe. But after that I was able to get to good focus. Now I have my reticle AND the stars sharp as well. In the good focus position I tightened the ring at the red arrow again to prevent turning the back side any further. There is a price for this though: it can happen - like I have experienced - that the hour positions in the polar scope are not correct anymore due to the fact that we have turned the back side of the scope ( including reticle ). In my case it was just a 20-30 degrees difference, so I inserted a thin washer under the polar scope (where it goes to the mount ) to solve this. That's it, I hope I could help other people in the same situation, Clear skies, Janos
  11. Hi, I have started to use my new mount and I don't find any instructions ( paper or online ) on this topic. What I exactly mean: by turning the back end of the polar scope I can focus the polar scope, but the reticle is not in focus when Polaris is focused. Before I start trying and tinkering maybe someone knows how to get the reticle and Polaris focused at the same time. My idea would be to focus the reticle first. After that I would need to know where/what else can I turn to reach focus on stars. My polar scope is already aligned with the RA axis btw, so those 3 grub screws are out of game ;-). Clear skies, Janos
  12. Hi, I use a Tokina 300mm AF pro f/2.8 lens on my modded Canon 1200D, works like a charm on the Star Adventurer. I can take up to 50s frames without guiding when it is balanced properly. You can see one example here: https://www.astrobin.com/297983/?image_list_page=2&nc=&nce= Clear skies, Janos
  13. Hi, Just to say I started to work with this program as well a week ago, it looks very promising. I have processed some images with it my Canon DSLR and the ASI071MC, I find it user friendly. Learning curve is much less steep than in Pixinsight, but to be fair PI is a complete package until final processing. The goal of Astro Pixel Processor is a good preprocessing as I see, but that part is done in very detailed way with advanced options, cheers, Janos
  14. Hi Louise, Thanks for your suggestion. I use a LED panel mostly, but I will try with room light next time and I will check out the thread you mentioned as well, Cheers, Janos
  15. Hi Louise, My one shot color camera is certainly more picky on this as I experience. Seeing the histogram of my flats, the red channel is falling out of the linear sensitivity range of my CCD, because it is much weaker than 30% of my full well capacity ( see histogram above ). Vlaiv has right,all three colors must be in the linear range to make good flats. But: with the idas filter attached it's impossible, because green and blue are getting saturated when red comes into the linear range. I will make new flats without the idas filter and it will prove or disprove my reasoning soon, Clear skies, Janos
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