Calzune

okey thanks! I have seen that there are different nm values of the filters, 7nm 12 nm etc, whats the difference? Im planning on buying the new ASI533MC and right now they will include a filter 1.25", does that mean that it will have the same image result with that filter vs 2" filter? So in the future if im buying that camera I just need 1,25" filters and not 2"?

anyone?....

Hi! Im planning on buying my first narrowband filter and I think the best filter to start with is Ha. right? But I have seen that there are dual and triband filters, are these a good option? I think triband filter are a bit expensive so my budget is maybe just 1 or dualband filter. Im using a dslr modded and in a couple of months im going to buy a ccd camera (color). what are your thoughts and tips on my first filter?

Okey thanks

Is it possible to use a Barlow2x-5x 2" for AP?

I hope that reviews and photos will come soon so I can decide... I just started this hobby 3-4 months ago 😅

Maybe I can buy a 0.5 reducer if I wanna image large dsos? https://www.highpointscientific.com/2-focal-reducer-0-5x-by-high-point That should work right? The reason I don't want mono is because of the price and the amount of clear nights is not that many where I am.. And I want just recently started with this hobby

This is a comperision between the new 553 and 294, the 294 is alittle more expensive than the 553 but it gives more fov... What should I go for?..... I could buy a reducer but that is not cheap either... I already have a flattener.

I have it and I have only tried it once because of the weather... It works great with phd2 and it does what a guidecam supposed to do ZWO has 10% on their cameras right now.

How do I see if the camera is good for my scope? If I use astronomy tools all I see is this :

Thanks! I will take a look at this one!

I'm looking for a color astro cam for around 800$. On that budget there is ZWO asi 183mc pro https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-183mc-pro-usb-3-cooled-colour-camera.html Altair Hypercam 183C PRO https://www.altairastro.com/Altair-Hypercam-183C-PRO-TEC-COOLED-Camera.html Which one is the best for that price point? Or is there a better cam for that money?

I have a modded 1100d, so you skipped Darks completely? I tried skipping Darks but the noise was even worse... Maybe I should try again..

OK but can I remove the st4 cable from my cam now and only use the usb3?

have I all the correct settings now? Quote Edit

I have all my gear connected to a USB hub. So have I all the correct settings now?

I use that one, forgot to mention that. So how do I connect things then?

Or Can I skip my "hand controller" cable completely and ONLY use the autoguider port ?

Hi! I recently started using phd2 and I'm alittle confused in what settings etc I should use... Right now when I connect my camera and mount it looks like this: Camera: ZWO asi camera Mount: eqmod ascom heq5/6 Is the mount settings correct? Or should I use "on camera? My hand controller port on my mount is directly connected to my pc and I have ascom installed. My guidecam is connected to my mount in port "autoguider". I just saw on a phd and ascom topic that I had to change a few ascom settings, so I did that now. Have I done this right with choosing "mount: eqmod heq5/6"? (I use APT on my laptop for all my sessions)

yesterday I tried to calibrate phd2 for the first time and I had some problems... there is something wrong with my backlash, how do I fix that? Can someone help me? phd2 stats.fit

I'm new to Astrophotography but I have learned alot these couple of months about ap and processing. I recently checked the forum about dark frames and dithering, and I have a question. I use a Canon eos 1100d (modded) and I have recently started using guiding = dithering. Do I need Darks if I'm dithering? I know that temperature is an important factor when taking frames and because I'm using a dslr I cannot control the temp. I know that Darks is best to shoot right after the light frames but still, it's not the same temperatures.. I have read that some people say it can make the picture worse if I'm shooting darks (if dithering) because of the temp change. And some people says it make a small improvement. Darks can take a long time to shoot, I go for minimum 20 and max 40. But this is time that I can have put in on lightframes. What are your thoughts on this? I usually go for 20 Darks, Bias and Flats.

Nice!

What astronomy gear have you bought from aliexpress/banggood etc that have saved you money compared to other retailers that are much more expensive? Im very new to astronomy but I have bought a couple of things. *Dewheater (usb dew heater, it works) - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/nVXQQ42G * Security camera to record scope and home while I'm not at home (I'm happy with this) - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/tPveOUqy * USB hub (it works, but it feels cheap) - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/3vMUuc00 * Dslr dummy battery (I never have to charge my battery again) - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/nLSg3JJK * SD card reader (very happy with this) - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/KlJJ5V0G What have you bought or planning to buy?

This is the best I have come up with, I might need to extend the cable between the guide ports and the guide cam.. The cable is getting really stiff when it's cold outside..

this is my first attempt to ap andromeda 50 lights ISO 1600 exposure 120 sec 20 dark 20 flats 20 bias First image is only processed in Astropixel processor Second is APP + some very light adjustment in photoshop (Im very new to photoshop) which one do you think is the best image?