Danon

Maybe a little bit, but I didin't want to push it lower. 

@vlaiv I agree with everything. I like criticism, so I appreciate your comment! 

I have three different stacks and two of them have a pretty color star. This have well color balance on m31 but most of stars were purple or blue. I don't know why and I didin't know which stars should be blue and which not, so I change only purple-looking ones. Probably some day, I will try to switch those stars colors from different stack, to this one. 

Also about background, in corners flat didin't work as much I've expected. I tried to make a pseudo-flat and that is result - too smooth background. Personally, I don't like too much dark point in photos and most of time, I tried to keep background at about 20 levels in photoshop. But this time, when I left background at that point, contrast betwen m31 and backgrond looks foggy, and my friends told me to push it lower.  

I'm impressed that you saw my "trick" in background. You are the first  one problably 

Hello,  

Its my first image with Nikon and second of M31. I'm very satisfied with change from Canon 1100D.
I was try to keep "natural  look" of galaxy

Nikon D750 + Esprit 100 ED.
40x300s from pretty dark sky

Enjoy

Lucas 

Thanks all. I appreciate that. 

@glafnazur Yes, icx694 is great sensor and processing images are just pleasure

Updating image with new one.
This is 98x600s and 77xOIII. Summary time is about 29hrs
Enjoy 

Astrobin  <---

Thanks all. @Adam J I'm still wondering if I really manage to carry it. Lots of my stars are "egg shaped", but not on whole image. Still Isn't look like bad spacing, because they not are directed into middle of image.  Maybe its because I'm shooting from city and seeing are often bad. For now I just ignore it.  RMS on oag is about 1" and I think I can't make it better. 

Hi. It's my "first" light from new scope Esprit 100. After a long fight with tilt on my camera and lack of good weather, finally some frames were gathered. 

This is 38x 600s Ha, and 28x OIII from city in Poland. It's only half of the planned time. Finnaly I would like to have at least 20h+ of total exposure time. 

Esprit 100/550 with Atik 460ex on HEQ5. 

 

Hi, I'm looking for some samples of images from Esprit 100 with 0.79 Focal reducer. I already saw topic below, but I'm looking for more samples  

 If anyone has this scope with FR I'll be glad if you send some Fits/raw to me

Many thanks, Lucas

Thanks all for comments  I appreciate that you like it. 

Hi, this will be my first topic at DSO, and also my first completed image from Narrowband. Frames taken in bortle 6 in Poland. About 4h in Ha and 4h in OIII. Im still learning and tries to make my own workflow.

All comments are welcome


Equipment is
Astro-tech 65Q
HEQ5
Atik 460EX mono and Baader filters. 

Lucas

@tooth_dr many thanks! So my next step is to aquire tilter

I know that I have some problem with tilt but on Ha there were smaller differences. It could be only tilt problem? Why on L is so huge comapres to Ha? 

Now I saw that on Ha also right side have diferent stars. Due to narrowband wavelenght differences are less visible? 

@tooth_dr sure.

Two JPEG L and B STF from Pixinsight. B looks better for me. On L, look at stars on right side  
I have no experience with camera, but Ha was good from city. And I tried to stack these L of m33 and it was very poor result

22 minutes ago, carastro said:

They both look fine to me for single subs @ 10s

M33 frames are 600s already

Hi, I've bought a new setup about month ago. I have Atik 460EX, AT 65/420 quadruplet, qhy cfw2 7x36mm with all baader filters. I didin't have motofocuser yet and all focus was on 10s frames loaded into Maxim to check FHWM. I've gather some Ha material from city and I was very happy about them. But when It comes to OIII, it was a little disappointment. All frames was a little fogy and bend. OIII require good conditions, so I said to my self "ok I try with no moon" 

But when new moon cames, I went to moutains on sky 21.6 mag to test LRGB. My goal was M33. I focus 10s frame. Ok 1.8 fwhm, lets try - and result was horrible. Completly "milky/fogy" detail. FWHM was 4.5 on every LRGB fitler. Ok maybe still its bad conditions, because fog was in valley. Next day I went to better spot with no fog and very clear sky. Some of my companions have excelent frames but my... Was still the same. So I tried OIII and SII. Still detail was fogy and unclear. I don't know what's wrong? I wasted 4 days with no moon on doing fogy frames. Ofcourse I have heater on telescope, optic was clear. My friend also give me bahtinov mask, and on bahtinov focus was perfect, also on 10s frames fwhm was 1.7-1.9.
The one thing, that cames to my mind, that I didin't chech is that filters haven't dew. But my FW is closed and all of connections are on rings. It is possible that camera/filter have dew too? I don't know what to do and now everything except Ha is ruined.

I attatch some frames to you guys to check what is look like. I sort frames from city and from trip. 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=188b1QXe0VVZ-vv17zNodiLvwL4FjObJk

2 hours ago, newbie alert said:

A higher f ratio scope at the same aperture has a shorter fl...it doesn't make the photons arrive any quicker

The same focal lenght and larger aperature gives the same fov and it has larger field that gather photons. Probably that is what he's thinking?  

20 hours ago, Adam J said:

Hope that helps you make your choice. For me, I picked the ASI1600mm pro because of the FOV of my 130PDS at 650mm demanding a larger sensor. But if i was working at around 400mm I would have picked the 460EX. Others will disagree for sure, but as I say there is not correct answer only personal choice both are great cameras.

Adam

I really appreciate that you did. All of You from this thread  Asi give me nice fov and detail but something inside me tell me that I need that CCD. Finaly I will be looking after 460EX with maybe some 80mm with F5. Best scope I think would be Espirt80 with flattener 1x. The 400mm is what I need when I look on telescopius frame samples on nebulas. Every nebula fits in 2 pane mosaic or smaller on one pane. Only that scale makes me sad. On Canon now I have 2"/pix. Do you think that Drizzle 2x will give me anything ? Im too focused on detail I think... But first I need to calculate if I have/want to spent such amount of money for scope and camera

@Whirlwind I have a short experience with practice from febuary, and 70% time was reading astrosites and what is important with all specification.  Weather was't good. From march I've taken about 5-8 photos which maybe 3-4 is 3h+. Rest of them are "Im curious how it will look like".  I always need to know what Im doing, thats why I search always how everything works. Every step from photons that gets into scope to understand how to scretch. Now I just don't want spent and change equipment and buy something that will be serve me well. Acording to weather speed is now important do me. 

@Adam J Thanks a lot! I read a lot for two days, and if I use 80/500 with 0.8x corrector I will get 400mm F5 photon machine with a little bit less fov than 510mm + kaf8300 That could be great. Do you think that SW Equinox is good choice? It will be 2.34"/pix on 460ex vs 2.18"pix on Atik. This is big change of resolution on final image? But another question.. If you have this 80/400 f5 and would be in my place, but with your knowledge, you would pick Asi1600 or Atik460EX? I read that Asi is annoying with these amp glow, small pixel, and number of frames. My PC that I do my stack I quite good but still I dont know what would be serving me for quite a long time 

77% QE and 5e- is twice faster than 56% and 7e-? 🤔

I copied this from CN

"The KAF-8300 has 5.4µm pixels, while the ICX-694 has 4.54µm pixel size. In terms of area, the KAF has a 41.5% advantage.

The ICX-694 has 77% Q.E., while the KAF has 56% Q.E., and the advantage goes to the Sony at 37.5%.

Read noise is similar between the two, ~7e- for the ICX, ~9.3e- for the KAF. I don't think the ~2e- difference here is going to be particularly significant, although the Sony sensor's lower read noise may be enough of a margin to matter for your particular applications.

Quantum efficiency is a simple measure of the ratio of incident photons at the photodiode that release an electron (photon to charge conversion ratio). Area is not a factor here. Given that, in terms of total sensitivity, the larger pixels of the KAF actually result in a 4% sensitivity advantage over the Sony. " 

Well, that's true. I must consider everything now, which one give best results 

Really thanks everyone for reply. That topic was bothering since a month, and no one from my country give me any anwser. But now... I even more don't know what to choose As beginner I go to site telescopius and look ad Heart nebula. If fov didin't get whole nebula I'm little bit sad. For 460EX with 420mm whole wide field of Heart nebula needs to be a 4-pane mosaic! But 2 pane is still good. Due to that I have now 2-3 clear nights per month, I'm little afraid when I complete all these popular large nebulas   That's why I looks at kaf 8300 so much, but QE and readout noise of sony chip is really tempting. 

2 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

Can you save that as a JPEG and attach locally please!

Sure. In jpeg edges looks a little bit shiny like amp glow. On fits in maxim there is no such things. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OzGQxXzVaKroeswZXdcUr7VmhFsMDcH7/view?usp=sharing

This is link to Dark frame from Atik that was offer to me. Those strange pattenrs nearby center is worring me. There are hot pixel formed into some "scratch"? 

56 minutes ago, Adam J said:

The other thing is that you can quite happily use 10min exposures with the 460EX in narrow band but will need 20 or more likely 30min exposures to get the very best from a 8300 based camera.

That is strong argument. Those images I've seen on astrobin, was from 10-15min subs only and still look good. I'm begginer, so probably I can't yet see any differences between 15min subs and 30 min. 

@tooth_dr How about Yours subs? How long they are?

I saw a lots of images from Atik but why not. You could show some. 

This atik "comes with all the cables and box". That's count as accesories?

About Dark frames. Why not using dithering? Ccd has no amp glow and lot of people dont use darks when they use dithering