Swillis

@TiffsAndAstro here is the setup:

And also a rare one of it 'in the wild'

I think you will need to connect it to a monitor whilst you do the original setup. RDP will need you to put in a username and password to login to the pc.

The keyboard and mouse will not work for control once you are remotely logged in (I've tried it). But you can at that point control everything from your tablet.

The hotspot will not automatically before a user is logged in, unless you change some settings somewhere, but can't remember how you do this. Think that's another Cuiv video.

1 hour ago, Martyn87 said:

I'm at around F3.45

You might want to consider if bandpass shift would be an issue at that focal length.

Cuiv produced an excel spreadsheet calculator which is useful

I thought you were complaining about a lack of detail! Both versions are stunning.

Good job 👍

@TiffsAndAstro I can get a pic tonight which should help.

I have swapped the canon mount on the SY135 for the astro essentials threaded adapter which goes into a filter draw and then to the 533. The lens is held by a mounting ring for a redcat which is on a small dovetail plate. The guidescope is mounted on a redcat carry handle.

There are 3d printed options, but I decided to go with parts made of metal.

9 hours ago, Vroobel said:

I believe that the data already stacked and presented above isn't lost.

Certainly not...

Will try and add some more data whilst I improve my spacing and focus.

22 hours ago, Vroobel said:

looks like the upper right corner is brighter. Is it possible that it's due to an unremoved gradient

You are probably right. I ended up not removing the gradient as I got some weird effect across the image after stretching.  Not sure exact the cause but will have to investigate further.

I'm currently imaging this again, but with the cooler turned ON this time. Also with improved (but not perfect) spacing.

2 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

90% sure its venus

I recon that's Venus and it's better than any picture I've taken. Well I've only taken one and that was the kids taking it with my phone through the eye piece, so you can imagine how that turned out!

But you can clearly see the phase. If you have a good enough horizon it would be worth returning over the next few weeks/months? As it moves closer to the sun (from our point of view obviously) and you will see a crescent shape much like you can follow the phases of the moon, only on a planet.

Just noticed that Alnitak and Alnilam didn't get removed (which was to be expected) but Mintaka did get removed by starnet++

@Vroobel thanks for asking for the starless version

I have reprocessed this without the stars and feel I have got a bit more out of it. With and without stars below, I have posted the uncropped versions so you can see the whole thing, but think I prefer the 4:3 crop similar to above (but on the newer version)

2 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

Your fov, with same sensor but 135mm is fantastic.

I do like the field of view, but @Vroobel is right that you will get more detail from your longer FL.

The SY135 is wide field with any sensor which is nice to get more of the context of a target, or just to fit in the larger ones, but then there are a lot of small targets which your setup will be better suited towards.

Thanks @Vroobel

I can try and do that this evening.

I didn't actually remove the stars during processing, but a starless version would be interesting to see, and would help get a bit more out of it.

The nb stars are much easier to deal with during processing.

I have been waiting for the whole of December to get an chance to use my new 533mono cooled camera from Altair Astro, the opportunity finally arrived on Thursday...

The setup is a Samyang135, stopped down to ~f2.8 with the above camera, on an AZ-GTI in EQ mode, with a 120mini guide cam and mini guide scope.

So far I only have an astronomik 12nm MFR filter. I decided not to go for the MaxFR filter, as the one I got was advertised down to F3 so I figured that was close enough...  When it arrived it actually stated down to f1.4!!  Stunned by this I contacted them and f3 is what they guarantee but f2 is the result with most.

Anyway once setup I noticed that the star shapes were pretty bad adding an extra spacer helped, but still needs a bit more adjustment to get focus within the 'L'.

After I added the extra spacer, I completely forgot to turn the cooling back on!  I managed a couple of hours of 180 sec subs on the horsehead and was very pleased with the difference from my 600d DSLR.  I expect a big jump, but a single sub (uncooled) was better than what I was getting with several hours before.

Below is where I have got with processing. Still getting the hang of GHS (and everything else with post-processing), any tips gratefully received.

Just need more filters now...

The file name has several . in it so the computer is reading the file type after the final .

Don't know what the .1 is all about but editing the file name by removing the .1 should mean it gets read as .tif

Including . In file names is usually a bad idea and most software will not let you use it.

Happy new year😁

The scope and camera should be cover for dark and bias frames so no need to have the filter in place.  You don't even need to have the camera attached to the scope.

Flat frames however should have the identical optics as you used to take your light frames.

Hope that helps

Simon

2 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

1) lots of groups of r/g/b pixels?

The pattern of RGB pixels looks to be consistent between the clusters. Could be hot pixels? With the pattern generated by dithering.  Can DSS detect and remove hot pixels?

18 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

Tom O'Donoghue's famous 400 hour, 35 panel Orion mosaic

🤯 It can be printed at 1.8m x 1.0m!!

Had a very good experience with Altair Astro recently. Ian was very quick to answer all my questions about the AA533MTEC camera I was interested in. I did contact Ian again the day after placing the order to get a delivery estimate but didn't get a reply only to find out it had already been delivered!

Overall very friendly and helpful

Would use again

@TiffsAndAstro Now I've seen it as the piglet, I don't think in can go back! 🤣

Nice work for one night

50 minutes ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

Decon in siril seems overly convoluted

Pun intended?

Looking forward to seeing your 450k sec version

Are the exposure lengths the same?

Can you (I mean your friend) compare side-by-side, and check background signal and target signal?

Thinking about this a bit more...

At f2.8 we would want to pass 653.3-656.3 for Ha, a 3nm range. What wavelength are the pre-shifted filters shifted too. I think the baader f2 filters 3.5/4nm fwhm, so even it was optimised to the range I calculated the the extremes of that range would not be at the peak transmittance? At f2 the range of wavelengths we would need to pass would become even wider.

Does this sound right?  I could be completely wrong on this with my knowledge being a few days old...

Thanks @SteveNickolls I will give that a watch later.  I think I came across as discussion on CN which referenced this.

@Elp the question was do you need pre-shifted filters, or can you use a wider band pass filter instead. This would rely on there not being too much light pollution which would be an issue with the wider band pass. Looking at Cuiv's spreadsheet, for the SY135 @f2.8 the peak for Ha would shift by 3nm at the edge. I think a lot of the fast filters are very useful for fast scopes with central obstructions but the SY still receives a fair amount of light which does not get shifted. The wavelength doesn't shift within the central ~12mm of the radius, so a reasonable amount of the signal would get through without a central obstruction.

Theory is one thing but practical experience may tell a different story. Also I could have made some mistakes and incorrect assumptions with the spreadsheet.

2 hours ago, Elp said:

Baaders are cheap compared to any filters from Chroma or Astrodon.

Yes, it's less of a shock when you look at the prices for individual filters, and then compare to other brands.

Would the f2 filters work in a slower scope? Or are they shifted too much?

I need to get the camera first and will probably get LRGB filters first so plenty of time for more research...

Thanks @Elp I'm sure those filters do a great job but that's a few more pennies than I was planning on spending. But you get what you pay for...

I did a bit of looking around and this topic came up previously in this thread (back on page 4), where 5 & 7nm are mentioned as working with this lens.

I also found this page interesting where someone has determined where they get a drop off in signal Vs f ratio

https://digitalstars.wordpress.com/2020/11/29/empirical-evidence-on-narrowband-filters-with-a-fast-telephoto-lens/

Thanks

Simon