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Everything posted by TerryMcK

  1. TerryMcK


    Interesting. Mine is definitely a flocked finish rather than smooth. However the amount of light pollution around here makes visual redundant anyway.
  2. TerryMcK


    It makes sense to do it while you have the mirrors out in that case. Good luck.
  3. I used to work for a well known British photographic film/paper manufacturer originally in Essex then moved to Cheshire in the 1980s. When you went into the coating machine, which was and still is in a building about 150m long 6 storeys high, when film was being coated it was pitch dark. Now that was a dark sky site! No stars of course but you can't have everything
  4. TerryMcK


    My 200P is already a flocked matt black (probably sprayed on) on the inside from the factory. I've had it about 10 years now. Maybe later versions are not already flocked but still painted matt black? Anyway I'm not sure the best way to do this but it may be easier applying it in a couple of strips lengthways providing you can reach far enough to press down onto the adhesive. You would have to remove everything mirrors and fittings. I'm intrigued as to why you are doing it. Are you getting internal reflections?
  5. I've always used a gain of 111 for every type of DSO (galaxies and nebula) on both of my ASI183s as that is the default setting in the ASI Windows driver/capture software out of the box. I use INDI drivers now as I use a Linux based system to capture still using a gain of G111. It's true the ZWO website does quote 120 in the graphs but for some odd reason the software differs. Anyway somewhere in that area will work fine. You will still get some amp glow, slightly more than 53, but that can be calibrated out completely with equal matching darks shot at the same gain, temperature and duration as the lights.
  6. Try your global preferences set Parallel Processing and Threads like below: Beware though during integration or any other processor intensive process your PC will seem to lock up. It isn't - it is just doing stuff and once complete the PC will be responsive again. Also PI works tons better with a SSD disk rather than a mechanical magnetic hard disk. If your laptop has space for 2 SSD drives then have one for the OS drive as normal and the other as a temp drive for use with PI swap storage as below. If not then you can use the existing SSD. Laptops don't have particularly fast display adaptors so you probably won't be able to make use of a GPU. However if you can increase the amount of RAM that would give performance improvements too. 8GB isn't a lot nowadays. Hope this helps
  7. No issue seen here with TIFF files saved from APP using sRGB v2.1 or sRGB v4.0 (in 8bit, 16bit or floating 32bit) or any other application then loaded straight into Photoshop 2022 .
  8. I'm also late to the party having been away in the Lakes. Here's mine processed entirely in PixInsight.
  9. Very crisp and clear
  10. This is the message on the website in plain view for all to see. We are trading at Kelling Heath Starparty. Open again Monday 11th Oct. Orders & emails will be processed when we return. Thanks for your patience.
  11. I also had the full set as a child complete with the Race Into Space book. No idea what happened to it.
  12. Yes I use PI so could do it that way. That FITSwork looks interesting thanks for the link Michael
  13. Anybody know a quick way to batch edit the FITS header? I took some subs last night and forgot the FILTER to be added to the header on 16 of them. Needless to say WBPP errors. I found a website https://www.theastrogazer.com/home/fits-header-tool which supposedly is some freeware but that program has a bitmining program embedded within it.
  14. You should have taken flats before altering any of the optical train. Even if rotating the camera slightly you should then take new flats. No stacking software aligns flats as it has no external references to work from,
  15. Similar design as mine that I made in 2013 also from plywood but not birch just cheap stuff - I can't remember the original designer but think it was on a Dobsonian user group website. The main hinge is made from a broom handle as is the location pin for the seat. I didn't bother with a footrest as my Dob is an 8" x 1000mm focal length so not a tall as yours.
  16. you need to convert the image to either a jpg or png file to paste in as a viewable image. Tiffs just attach.
  17. It is a great scope and camera combination. Very well executed.
  18. Probably. If you can get it as close to the sensor as possible it will minimize internal reflections though.
  19. Astronomy Now is a UK magazine and I take it I find it ok. Much better than Sky at Night. Not heard of Astronomy so do not know where it has its origins.
  20. The ZWO ASI120MM mini is fine for guiding whether on scope or oag.
  21. All good advice to use Astroberry with the PI4. I would just go for the 4GB version if I were you. I have several PI4's for my setups and Astroberry/Kstars/EKOS is a fully functional observatory control system, whether just a basic rig or an all singing all dancing rig with dome etc. with everything inbetween. All for free apart from the cost of the PI.
  22. My Altair Astro 2" solar wedge is ok up to 7" (175mm) apertures according to the manufacturers specs. They also go to state "The Altair Solar Wedge has been fully tested with the sun remaining in the centre of the field of view for 5 hours of continual exposure with a 6" (152mm) aperture refractor in mid-summer in the UK. At no point did the outer prism housing become too hot to touch, a problem common with other wedges. Whilst we cannot recommend use with telescopes of larger than 6 (152mm) aperture for longer or shorter duration, if your telescope is larger, then we suggest trying the wedge for a short time initially, to assess the heat build-up and make your own informed decision." I use mine on my WO ZS73 and have left it pointing at the sun for hours and the wedge never gets too hot to touch. The OTA has never got hot either.
  23. I have the Altair Astro 2" Hershel wedge. It is really good, doesn't get hot and has both 2" and 1.25" adapters with threads for a continuum filter etc. It fits into 2" adapters on scope drawer tubes.
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