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About Vondragonnoggin

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  1. I can see color in nebulae rich in OIII and Hb using UHC or OIII filters. My scopes are too small and my eyes too old to see color in nebulae without the filter though. Filter brings the S/N up in OIII and Hb enough to faintly see some of the colors. I strongly suspect I’d have to start observing from Bortle 1 skies to see more colors without filters or see the colors stronger than I do under light pollution.
  2. There are variable camera projection eyepieces available that have height adjustment. You put the 1.25” eyepiece in them and attach the camera via the T threads on top of it. Like this one from Teleskop Express - https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p215_Eyepiece-Projection---Prime-Focus-Adaptor---1-25--to-T2.html You need the T thread adapter for your camera and they recommend using Super Plossl eyepieces that drop in the adapter from 9mm to 15mm depending on how much magnification you need.
  3. Hi Chris. I understand completely your need for lighter scopes. My back is trashed from three back injuries when I was younger. I use scopes that are 15lbs or less now exclusively and much prefer the easier ones and a lightweight tripod. I have two Startravel scopes. A 120ST and a 150ST. The 120ST is 8.8lbs and the 150ST is 13lbs for bare OTA. I really like them. By far though, when I feel less energy, (which is a lot these days it seems like) I go for a grab n go with some decent views in my AT72ED refractor I bought used. It was about $250 used I think but it’s my most used
  4. I think we had a long thread years ago in the BV forum at CN on best metal tape to use for taping undercuts. APM used to supply some rubber o-rings that would fill up the undercuts, but straight barrels are best. Even the concentric ring will get caught in the wrong part of the undercut and tilt them sometimes causing alignment issues. The trick of turning the eyepiece while loose in the collet until you get best alignment, then just barely tighten to keep it from moving was primarily for straight barrels that aren’t perfectly circular. You’d never notice as a single eyepiece in a 1.25” a
  5. I prefer binoviewing but started astronomy with 12x50 binoculars. I later bought 25x100’s, 10x50’s, 12x60’s, 8x42’s, then two Binocular telescopes that take regular 1.25” eyepieces - a 70mm with 90° oculars and a 100mm with 45° oculars. I started collecting eyepiece pairs to use in the Binocular Telescopes. Later bought a Williams Optics Binoviewer and some of my best planetary and lunar views to date are with the binoviewers. One thing I noticed about the WO BV I bought used - clear aperture is only 22mm so limits low power eyepieces to those with field stops that don’t exceed the clear
  6. A couple research papers https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5122960/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1191920/ https://iovs.arvojournals.org/article.aspx?articleid=2182682 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binocular_summation https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0042698978902067 There is a lot of material on the web regarding binocular summation and increased visual acuity. Some interesting reading.
  7. Yeah but it completely caught my eye spelled like that! Effective eye catcher.
  8. No matter if it’s regular no filter viewing, moon filter viewing, or binoviewer two-eyed viewing, finding a way to get into Lunar viewing is great. There are a lot of features to explore on the moon and it’s a much better option than being annoyed by the moon and not viewing while it’s up.
  9. I think binoscopes, Binocular telescopes, and binoviewers are in a different category really. Two zooms in a Binocular telescope, binoscope, or binoviewer is a very nice solution. I have 100mm and 70mm Binocular telescopes. I also have binoviewers. Single hand held binoculars with zoom function tend to be junk unless you go for something like the Leica Duovid which has two magnifications and not technically a zoom and also unfortunately about $2500 to get real quality and a usable FOV. I tried some other zoom handhelds and they were absolute garbage. The biggest drawback and commonality s
  10. Binoviewers are going to be dimmer because they split the light with 50% going to each eye. Still have the resolution of your full objective but now 50% the brightness. For someone as sensitive as me to light contrast, even a 72mm scope at low power on the moon with a single eyepiece like a 28mm is too bright. If I use binoviewers on the 72mm scope it’s like a small binocular and very tolerable plus harder to get lowest power with binoviewers using a 1.8x GPC (which is what my Williams Optics BV’s have) so smaller exit pupil and still dimmer image. If I move up to my 150ST which has
  11. I’m also light sensitive. Anything with high contrast is really harsh to me. I use 40 watt lightbulbs at home because of this. Lumicon ND13 (13% transmission) for low power views is the one I have somewhere. I’ve misplaced it though so I just wait until my scope is thermally equalized good and crank up the magnification on the moon to dim the view as long as the seeing supports it. Moon & Skyglow is good also. I actually prefer the Moon & Skyglow on Jupiter though. It’s Great for both Jupiter and the Moon though. It does dim the view a bit and provide better contrast. Gotta f
  12. The only decent one I know of is the Leica Duovid. https://us.leica-camera.com/Sport-Optics/Leica-Hunting/Binoculars/Leica-Duovid Not really a zoom though. Two magnifications.
  13. Denis has a few threads showing various BV’s taken apart and some steps he’s done. He also lists BV’s in the classifieds he’s already “Supercharged” (increasing clear aperture to accept eyepieces with wider field stops). I have a William Optics BV and it was cheap used but works ok, but definitely has given me the incentive to save for a better BV that will take my pair of 24mm 68° eyepieces without vignetting. When you get a good BV, the planetary and Lunar views are really rewarding. Last clear night I had was the 8th of June and I spent two hours out on Jupiter alone. Had some r
  14. While considering the solid tube for dual mounting is interesting, I personally find big newts awkward for visual use on GEMs and starting AP with a 1200mm focal length newt on a GEM after doing visual with a Dobson base is a bear of a switch. The GEM needed for such a big tube will be costly. I’m more a fan of barn door trackers and slr lenses for starting AP or a 60-80mm refractor at F/6 on a beefy enough GEM to have a capacity of over twice the weight of the 60-80mm refractor. Going from manual dob to AP is drastically different. You could ease into the process with a goto
  15. Some places in Texas still have dark skies but the big cities in Texas are no different from light polluted big cities everywhere. Since you have a 2x barlow already and the very nice 25mm Plossl, you are getting a 12.5mm equivalent when using the 25mm in the barlow. You might try an eyepiece in the 14-17mm range. Barlowed would give 7-8.5mm equivalent with more eye relief than the current 10mm Plossl. I find the Skywatcher 10mm is a good eyepiece but do not like the short eye relief and prefer larger eye lens with longer eye relief. Barlows increase eye relief unless they are telecentric desi
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