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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. I don't disagree re getting expert advice, that's generally a good way to go if planning some new works and esp so if you've no relevant expertise yourself. In terms of my past installations, they were all done to building code at that time and in some aspects to industrial above domestic at that, so I've no worries on that front. They all passed inspection by the relevant authority on hand-off or you wouldn't be able to connect to the main supply into the building I have however seen several dodgy installs that have been inherited when buying another property too, like main power and lighting cross-connected, regular ring wiring run to outbuildings in garden hose just inches under the edge of flower beds etc, scary the way some have done installs and a new unsuspecting owner is put at risk...
  2. hehe yeah has gone that way here for the most part where apart from "repairs" you're supposed to get someone who is part-P certified to do the work or have them check and certify your work afterwards. Back way back when, I've rewired houses from the meter, laying in new rings and main RCD/MCB distribution board etc. Ran the earthing down into the basement where I installed said spike as it was just a few turns of bare wire around a metal supply pipe (water or gas) in the old setup. Even installed galv trunking to protect the cabling that ran from the distribution board in the garage that was all earth bonded between sections etc. So a couple years after I left the ex had builders in doing other works and to see how they left it all was shocking, just trailed wires around, opened the trunking and didn't bother to re-cap it etc., what a mess. No wonder I'm usually reluctant to get a "professional" in to do works where I know I can do it at least as well myself
  3. ouch 2.5 T&E sure wouldn't cut it for earth I'd say, is that direct from the fuse board or a spur off the ring? An earth spike (4ft) is relatively easy to do so long as the ground isn't littered with rocks under the surface. A 4lb hammer should drive it in ok, maybe easier if the ground is wet. Then fit the clamp on the end and 10mm earth wire back to the consumer unit to bond that to earth and the obsy should be fine. I would suggest for the ethernet cable that you fit surge suppressors, I used these on the hard link out to my shed which is a lot closer but does have CCTV gear linked back to the house and now the sky cameras. https://www.ui.com/accessories/ethernet-surge-protector/
  4. that'd require a multi-user license on a server grade OS rather than end-user winwoes. Did used to work with pro till W7 IIRC and as I recall there may have been a trick by substituting a component of the OS software. Server gets 2 users as std I believe but not a cheap option for home use. If you want the remote PC to continue with the console session you have to revert to remote control via VNC etc rather than RDP.
  5. very nice Pete Here its been all rain and clouds so not had much decent viewing at all, nor any chance to do much of anything now I'm back in a day job. Doing a road trip at the weekend tho to collect a TAL100R(s?) so I guess that means it'll be occluded skies for quite a while
  6. an ELCB won't take care of earthing at all, only has the ability to detect a leak to "earth" from L or N. Problem can be if the earth floats as a result of resistance along the length of the wire which can lead to erronious/late triggering. Far better to drive an earth spike in and bond to that, they aren't expensive and so long as you protect the install with a suitable cover it'll be fine. I'd still install the RCB/ELCB too, safety first and all that. I've come across a few instances where earth has floated and got a buzz off equipment casings and in one case when my hands were under a running tap, not good!
  7. well done to your daughter James, mine used to swim when she was young too As for the metal boxes, yep for sure I'd earth them, better safe than sorry esp in an environment where external moisture could well lower the contact resistance when you touch the case. Ideally you should probably have a proper bonded earth too, you could probably drive a copper earth spike under the shed and run to that as grounding via the power feed cable to the remote buildings isn't really a proper solution unless its a suitable gauge cable you're using.
  8. what type of battery is the 100Ah one and how old is it? If its dropping to low voltage after such a short time it sounds like maybe one cell is failing and then the volts would drop to 11.2v or there abouts. It would be worth using a multimeter and checking the terminal voltage at the battery off load after charging and then while on load and see what is happening. Assuming its a regular SLA battery it should read around 13.6v after charging and settle time, if left a few hours (or next day having sat unused) check again and see how far that drops. If it then reads 11.xv with no load then it'll confirm a cell has failed.
  9. could save yourself a few quid perhaps James and see if this is worth going and collecting... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/garden-observatory/264362617626?hash=item3d8d3d6b1a:g:L7IAAOSw0Z9dA~qR
  10. is there a decent tools/hardware place near you, not the likes of BnQ but a more specialist place? They may be able to check it against a size guide and determine the correct thread pitch and size you need. I do have a metric set of tap+dies and gauge but might not help if the US have used their UNC or whatever sizes, not to mention York is a long way from me.
  11. surely you can buy a replacement plug and just fit that after cutting the old one off? Far better than splicing the two leads unless you use a proper in-line joining block. Only downside would be it won't be sealed so in moist conditions perhaps not ideal unless there are rubber housing types rather than the cheaper plastic housing that are probably easier to source.
  12. if you have the funds, you could go for a LiFePo battery to replace the failed 17Ah lead acid. much lighter and the 10Ah LiFePo will perform about the same as the 17Ah Pb battery. Downside tho is cost, at around 4x the price of the Pb battery tho will likely have a much better service life and doesn't have the same sulfating issue the old lead tech suffers from. I understand they perform better on hi load discharge too where the lead tech tends to buckle the plates. Was considering this for the UPSs but at the time needed 6 pairs and that would've cost me a fortune when I was at no income but was lucky to land a batch of new 17Ah SLA for £9 each
  13. I'd suggest you use dielectric grease on the LV connections, should help keep any moisture out and maintain a good connection over time. I use Servisol silicone grease on the CCTV LAN+power connections whether inside or out and applied to the connections inside the dome unit that is now skycam-2 before it was finally assembled and sealed up. No harm a light smear on any threaded components that might corrode over time too...
  14. thanks Well I still consider it cheap, esp considering there's 2 out there and pretty low spend to achieve. Decided this dry morning to tweak the aim and move the smaller one out of view before I head off to family commitments, forecast is v wet this evening so won't be a better opportunity with returning to work Monday. I think results for a while might be tainted with the sky not being as dark as when I started the project so plan to run with the F1.8 2.1mm lens in the 5MP for a while before I test the 2.5mm F1.2 and if I figure how maybe try a few stacks to see how the current setup performs as a reference point.
  15. Could be James, exposure time is set to auto but has to be else it can never reach the slowest shutter as manual mode the slowest is 1/30s or there abouts. Also it'd be totally bleached out in the day. I did try anti-flicker but that seems to turn the sky white and I've not found an adjustment to correct for that. At night anti-flicker doesn't affect it the same way, so could be an exposure related artifact. I was wondering if its a kind of heat haze rising from the module and into the dome above the lens but I don't think that's the case as I don't see the same effect on the other and its a smaller dome housing, or could that be why - less air to circulate? The IMX291 module is Hik protocol capable, so even less I can tweak on that one via the Hik interface, will have to switch it to onvif mode at some stage and see if that opens more options but as it stands, it makes a fair day-view camera with a nice fisheye view and easier to access remote via iVMS-4200 over vpn with my mobile Can't open the IMX335 that way as its onvif only and I'd need the pro iVMS4500 for that, not found a retailer for the license so far but isn't a major priority.
  16. so now its dark and reasonably clear out, looks like an improvement going from F2 1.7mm to F1.8 2.1mm in that more stars are showing, well a couple at least. I can make out the 3 on the handle of the plough and just about the others over time but probably still not enough aperture. Will let it run this way for a while then perhaps swap the F1.2 2.5mm in and see how that does. I think any lens slower than f1.4 and this cctv module is going to struggle given the slowest shutter speed is just too fast. Might get a better result if I stack a video from it which I may have a go at at some stage, will have to figure how to take H265 stream and feed that into the stacking app unless there's a better way, capturing the RTSP stream perhaps?
  17. so first solar body comes into view beside the tree, la luna Dunno what's going on with the image tho as its flickering between a nice flat sky and the odd ring noise pattern
  18. there's a lot to be said for the older tech and non-SMD boards, at least there's a fair chance to diagnose and repair. I've a couple switch-mode bricks from SFF HP PC's that are dud now and looks like I'l have to chisel out the compound they glued everything down with just to get to diagnosing what failed. Most likely the big electrolytics but so far I've put this job off, was easier to just buy replacements lol
  19. haha well true I guess, tho the 5MP board was only £22 or so and lenses around £7 each, the big dome was £15 as it was no longer working, so not too pricey. The other IMX291 camera well I had a couple kicking about spare so no-cost to me
  20. and looks like I got it done just in time as the rain's started again
  21. ok, another dry spell so was able to go adjust things, kinda. Had to swivel Cam1 around as it was obscuring and can still see the base, oh well I can move that later. Canted the 5MP camera on its gimbal so its tilted toward SE, so it should hopefully be able to pick up the moon etc as they transit and hopefully will still see Ursa Maj above. Now just need a clear dark night to see what can be seen. Doesn't have full sky view now compared to the 1.7mm lens before but am hoping the little bit extra aperture will improve what it sees, time will tell... Noticed too that Cam1 had some condensation under the dome. Looks like moisture seeped by the seal under the dome edge where it isn't smooth. Pasted some dielectric grease under the edge after drying it out and will see how that fairs. These CCTV domes really aren't designed to be used upside down but heck they seem to work reasonably well Left cam1 with the previous lens since the CS ones won't fit into that tiny housing unless I file the lens opening a long way wider. So the new dome (cam2 IMX335) is aimed toward SE and the mini dome (cam1 IMX291) toward EW in terms of widest part of the view which looking at it means it'll catch my IR lighting, such is life.
  22. at least focus looks good
  23. ugh bleedin british weather! so after lots of rain sky went nice and blue and clear. OK thinks I, ladder out and fit the new dome housing. So just as I'm putting in the camera module sky goes dark and spits of rain. managed to bolt the module base in and just got the dome on before it started heavier, phew! Still need to open it up again tho to adjust the aim and drop a silica gel pack in, plus a dab of silicone around the dome screws. Oh well, its up with the 2.1mm F1.8 CS lens so if it doesn't get drowned I can at least see if there's any improvement Had to switch the IRcut trigger too as it was working the wrong way with the CS filter, thankfully the camera module has an option for that
  24. just don't go with the cheap CCA cables, they ain't Cat anything even tho they claim to be. They do work but exposed to big temp changes they aren't reliable long-term and not so good if you want to use PoE
  25. so true. I recall a few years back when I lived in Essex, the then other half and I drove right out into the country to find a very dark spot so we could watch the meteor shower as we'd not have seen much where we lived by the river, with lights all around to illuminate the walkways.
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