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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. So thinking more on the dew issue I've just ordered 8x 6.8 ohm 3W resistors that I can wire in series across a 12v feed, hopefully that'll do enough in the webcam dome. Also ordered one of these to turn it on/off as day becomes night etc. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XH-M131-Photoresistor-Module-DC-12V-Relay-Light-Control-Switch-Detection-Sensor/153096543279?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=452938694748&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Could build one but at that price, heck it'd be cheaper than collecting up the components etc.
  2. I don't have any specs, was just thinking to what I'd read in reviews of some of Sony's SLT cameras. The A77 SLT says the finder is "2.4M dot OLED viewfinder" so a reasonable resolution. Of course if there's no optics where the eyepiece is in the eVscope then a larger panel could be dropped in as per your suggestion to give a better impression of looking at the real object directly via the eyepiece.
  3. Sounds an interesting project, I hadn't realised the EVscope used an electronic eyepiece, thought it just displayed out to a tablet. Maybe they use the type of display in modern cameras for the improved resolution in a small panel?
  4. Cold out but dry at least so I thought I'd shift the small dome to give a little more of the NW view for the webcam version, lowered the wood trim piece a bit too. has shifted the view of the smaller cctv version slightly but not so bad, just cuts off the roofline a bit on the LH of the image. I guess the WDR abilities of the cctv module cope better with daytime viewing than the webcam in MS camera app. Still not found a better alternative for that. SharpCap does fine at night but not so much in the day. Remembered to RainX the domes while up there this time too Am considering what to do about dew heater for the webcam one and if it's even worth it. After all I'm not really trying to image with it so I may just leave it as-is unless things get worse as it gets colder. Of course it'd be more faff to do it then but... Might order some resistors meantime as I can always run a 12v feed into the unit, are there any that can auto-on using an LDR like the IR LEDs on CCTV modules as that'd probably be an ideal solution so it only heats in dark hours?
  5. is that for an eyepiece or both that plus a barlow? The Svbony SV135 (7-21mm) will soak most of that and a reasonable barlow would be another £30 or so, for example. https://www.svbony.com/SV135-1-25inch-Zoom-Eyepiece-/ The OVL Hyperflex is around £70 https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/p-ovl-hyperflex-7e-7-2-21-5mm-zoom-eyepiece-1-25-inch.htm The OVL Variable polarizing filter is around £25 on top if you go for one of these.
  6. oh well video just gave me a bright white blob, didn't expect I was going to get a result that was any good, I need time to figure the exposure settings etc and a tracking mount to keep it in view while I fiddle about. Still I was looking to give it a quick try having only got it today, Mars even seemed blue on screen some of the time with clouds crossing it so not the best conditions to attempt this. Next time I may try with the 100RS and VPL filter and maybe a 2x barlow as the EQ5 will at least track by just adjusting the RA or using the synscan one.
  7. I don't have the 130P but an older SW130 long tube among others as per my sig. Barlows I have 2x and 3x TAL as well as a couple 2x SW ones that came with the scopes which are OK tho I prefer the TAL ones. I rarely use the 3x as I find 2x more than enough with the eyepieces I have which range from 25mm-6.3mm TAL Plossl, 20+10mm Vixen NPL and a couple ortho's 12+9mm in the 1,25-inch set. I do have a variable polarizer that arrived the other day, not had the chance to try it out on planets as yet. I expect it should be good on the moon and bright planets as last time I had the chance to play the moon was like looking into a lightbulb. Hopefully should be more flexible than fixed density filters I already have.
  8. hehe yep the TAL-1 isn't light, being a solid ally OTA at near 1M length. It worked pretty well as pictured tho I could adjust where the phone rig sits. The Joby adjusts and holds very well once the screw is tight, it isn't a ball head so you have only a tilt axis. I didn't need to use the mini ball-head for this setup, for the EQ5 mounted 100RS I'd just have to "cope" with the phone tilting as I move around the sky being the mounting would be fixed to the dovetail bar
  9. so tonight I tested the TAL-1 rig with starsense, it seemed to work very well, quick position location and not phased by the EQ mount tilting the phone even so it was edge vertical as I panned around. Had to do a bit of balancing tho with the extra weight of the tube ring, holder and phone on top of the usual finder and eyepiece. But I think I can report that it will work on a GEM setup, tho I guess it may depend on the sensors your phone is equipped with. I'm using a note-10+ so pretty much top end of the range. Then switched to the LT70AZ on the OEM rig and again similar results, located quickly and directed just fine tho the phone of course does remain at a "better" position during the pan actions, no crazy tilt angles or rotating the OTA required Seems accurate enough to at least get you to the right part of the sky and on target for the lower power EPs before you home in with more magnification. Cloud now stops play here, managed to attempt some video capture with the LT70 and the Philips SPC900 tho probably poor as cloud had drifted over Mars' location as I was attempting this. Will have a play and see how it comes out in a while. For sure that'd have been a lot easier on the EQ5 mount with proper SloMo controls lol.
  10. I recently got the svbony sv171 8-24mm eyepiece, seems very good on the couple times I've had a chance to use it. It is huge tho but has held well in the low cost Celestron LT70AZ I recently purchased. If you can wait for it to arrive then the svbony store on Ali had them at around £50 tho seems to be out of stock for the moment https://www.svbony.com/svbony-sv171-zoom-eyepiece-8-24mm/ They also do a 7-21mm zoom that is smaller but I can't comment on that one. Seems the svbony range get reasonable reviews on CloudyNights so may be a better choice than the Celestron or other cheaper zooms.
  11. Added the scope nosepiece with IR filter Fitted it to the LT70AZ 70/700 scope to test with no diagonal in the path, not easy to hit focus on treetops that are blowing all over the place in the wind but A fair bit of CA but at least a result and that little scope should be able to hit focus on the planets at least. I expect the TAL100RS would give a better result but is a lot more effort to shift out for a very brief test.
  12. thought I'd try a couple Sky shots with the 2.1mm lens in place to see how this SPC900 does. Too narrow FoV and blocky at max 640x480 to be worth using as a SkyCam I think and I'd expect going wider with a 1.7mm lens would be even worse.
  13. yep, found it on the bay of E for £30, it's pretty much as new and even came in the original box. You can only get them used these days but they do come up every now and again, tho often at higher prices (>£45). Occasionally an astro-modded one pops up, last one I saw was around £50 with a serial cable (LX mod) but I didn't hit the bid/buy button on it. Just swapped the lens out for a 2.1mm wide that I had kicking around from my cctv mods. Only gives around 60 degree FoV so it wouldn't be much use for a SkyCam, with a 1.7mm it'd give a wider FoV, perhaps 120 or so. Resolution however isn't good given this only runs to max 640x480. I did find that Skype picks up this camera quite happily even tho the camera app in W10 doesn't, shows pretty well with the 2.1mm for use as a webcam should I need it for that purpose. Will drop the scope nosepiece into it later and have a play with one of the fracs and see how it does.
  14. today this got dropped off Installed the driver on the W10 desktop and SharpCap picks it up just fine, tho Camera app doesn't and looking in device mangler I guess I'm not surprised as it apparently isn't a camera Still it works which is the main thing. Hasn't been LX modded not sure if I'll bother to but a quick search didn't find the how-to as the site seems to have vanished. Main aim I guess will be to have a play with imaging planets so LX isn't such an issue. I see in Sharpcap that the slowest shutter is 1/30s on this SPC900NC where the Logi C270 goes to 1sec and the Dericam HD that I took apart for the SkyCam goes to 1/2s so I guess I have some options on which to use for the desktop and which for night sky use between the Logi and the Philips.
  15. Funny coincidence John but I have a mini ball-head also but hadn't thought to use it for this mod. One handy thing I realised was that the camera flash bars I bought fit that finder shoe I just received tho would be too wide for a regular Synta one. Might be worth me fitting this shoe to the vintage scope so the starsense can be used there too For reference this is the view from the Celestron OEM mount off the mirror with my phone (note 10+). Still get some clipping at the top corners and the phone obstructing the bottom part, hence I think a prism will perform just fine and did in early tests. I guess the view with the mirror rig will vary according to phone and position of the cameras, shame the note-3 can't work for this as the camera was better positioned for this use-case compared to where the 10+ ones are. So with this in mind and having built a holder for the prism, I've moved the OEM mount back onto the LT70 and using a tube ring here's the rig on the TAL-1 Now I think this may be workable on the EQ mount and if I run into issues with the angle I can always do what you normally do with a newt in an EQ mount to sort the focuser angle... rotate the OTA or in this case, just the starsense finder if necessary being it is on an independent ring. For the 100RS and SW130 I wouldn't have this flexibility unless I acquire an additional tube ring for them which I'm not planning to quite yet.
  16. one thing to check tho, the CD SATA interface is often not set to run at the full speed the port the SSD/HD is connected to. On some you can sort that in the BIOS if the manufacturer made that option available, some don't.
  17. I bought a Giottos monopod that has 3 legs in the bottom part so you can turn it into a sort of tripod. Similar to this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GIOTTOS-MM5560-MONOPIE-MONOPODE-monopod/224184549059?hash=item343270bec3:g:vR4AAOSwADZevXbv The one I have is the 5570 model which extends to 177cm and is nice and solid.
  18. doing my bit to keep the clouds hanging around... A star diagonal and finder shoe courtesy of Svbony. No idea how you tell if it really is dielectrically coated but hopefully it'll be as good as the TAL one. Good news is the OV polarizer filters fit the nosepiece just fine Intention with this one is so the little Celestron LT70 has a proper diagonal to use rather than the plastic erecting one it came with. The finder shoe I may fit later on to the vintage scope so it'll be easy to swap an RDF or regular finder onto it.
  19. not 100% that the prism I'm using is coated but might be. Are you seeing reflections between camera lens and the prism then? Could be the light level, at night it may not cause any issue unless aiming at a bright target. As you can see I flocked the edge facing the camera as well as the long edge, cut a hole wider than the camera and flocked the area under the phone. Idea was to quash as much stray light as possible and to give the prism as optimal a housing as I could. Seemed to work quite well. A bit of vignetting doesn't seem to affect the ability to get a star fix so I've gone ahead with building it. I do see a section at the lower part of the image that has a darker area as per your pic but it didn't seem to affect it at night so could just be stray internal reflections in brighter light. Saw similar with a prism diagonal of older japanese vintage when looking through the prism while cleaning it and when back in the diagonal looking down the barrel. But in the scope day or night I didn't note the effect at all. I did black the ground edges on the prism I'm using just to try to dull off any potential effects, kinda mute really tho being it is now fully clad in a flocked housing
  20. thanks, hopefully will get a chance to test sometime in the next months Interesting re the accelerometer I guess that could become a problem, I guess we'll know soon enough. As to the printer, yes I have thought about it but where I currently am, space and curious kitties are the issue. One day perhaps...
  21. The loss of FoV with a bino prism isn't too bad really, a squared prism like Mark showed would be better but I didn't have one of those laying around so tested with what was to hand. The rig I fabricated should work well enough given the first mockup was some acetate film and flocking and that located under the stars very well sat on a photo tripod. Not having a 3D printer, hacksaw and acetyl sheet was the easy route, not to mention something to do to pass the time! I plan to use it on EQ mounts as most of mine are that way Not had a chance to test it out like that tho as weather here has been typically cloudy/wet of late but hopefully it will be usable. Always a chance that Celestron will release it as a stand-alone one day with a finder shoe mount, but the base model scope isn't exactly expensive for a play and other than the mount it performs pretty ok as it happens.
  22. Hi Alex yes it does seem tolerant as in my testing so far the prism and plain mirror solved faster than the starsense OEM rig which surprised me. I was aiming the camera high to NW at the time and that way is the London light dome tho my back garden is reasonably dark. Others on CN have tried with plain mirrors, shaving and the like and reported it works just fine. The mirror I used was very thin glass and fell off a hairbrush so I figured why not see if it works. Losing some of the FoV doesn't seem the be a big issue so long as there's enough sky for it to solve, more a problem is cloud or brightness in the sky. It warns of a bright moon and suggests to look at other regions of the sky as accuracy can't be assured in the region of the devil's floodlight.
  23. hmmm I get that if the prism is in free air, but if you hold dark/flocked card against the long edge the the image correct to be only what is in front When there's plenty of light you get the interference of light entering via both exposed surfaces unless they are silvered or blocked in some way. For me I didn't see the point buying a diagonal even cheap when I have a couple spares binos just kicking around waiting for a good use to come along
  24. If the prism will give an inverted view with the camera looking in one short side and therefore of what is in front of the other short side, assuming you have good internal reflection off the long face then you'd be good to go. An old 10x50 bino prism is what I'm using in the rig I made, but a plain regular mirror also works, doesn't need to be first surface from a test I did the other night. As John says a cheap plastic diagonal might be easier as that already has the box you can glue to a phone holder etc. As for the big wings in front, they baffle the stray light from the mirror so I guess if there's total darkness you won't need them, but not hard to add as needed if you find it necessary. I thought it worthwhile as I've no control of neighbours turning bright upstairs lights on etc.
  25. always the way Ade, here it's not too bad tho cloud is drifting across now from the NW, but tired eyes and needing to be up and out early, need to go unload tools etc from the car before I head off to zzzz so won't be playing tonight. Would like the epoxy to have a chance to cure off properly too before I try using that home-made prism rig
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