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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. heh so know that feeling Mark I certainly notice mine getting tired after doing a lot of small fiddly works. As Peter said, if you get a single point star then collimation is probably OK, good to know I'm not the only one not to have noticed, like Peter I just get focus and carry on. Sounds like you'll get a couple feedbacks on testing which is nice.
  2. cloud permitting I'll try have a look tonight and report back, I've a few older pairs and a more recent minolta pair as well as a few roof type to test with.
  3. Could just be a feature of the lenses used or the eyepiece design, prisms I'd hope should be ok as they'd be made with good plain surfaces for the image to be folded accurately. I'll have to try that next time I'm out with a few and see how they fair but I don't recall any odd star shapes but then to be fair I wasn't really looking for them, just shifted focus to get to pin sharp
  4. hmmm must say I've not checked for that. Collimation would give you double stars if it was out rather than an odd shape to a single image. Are they Porro or roof type?
  5. hmm I never checked, turns out it is 25mm according to this site: http://rus.telescopes.ru/product.html?cat=1&prod=10
  6. is your mount dismantled? It basically screws into the pier top or fits atop the wooden tripod and then you set the latitude according to your location by undoing the big crank/lever that is next to the scale on the side. Perhaps this will help?
  7. just got a glimpse or Moon, Jupiter and Saturn, mk1 eyeball tho, while out having a smoke, quickly engulfed in dark cloud tho. No point putting the scope out and having to rush back in with it if it rains again. Pity as I was hoping to give the TAL-M a play now it's reassembled, c'est la vie...
  8. Here I'm showing RH 57% and 24C outside, we had a brief shower earlier but total cloud cover so I guess I shouldn't have collimated the TAL-M and aimed it at the skies earlier today... sorry
  9. one more thing to mention with this scope. With the finder being built-in to the main focuser, the intention is that the finder and main scope should be parafocal so you can seamlessly switch between the two and not have to fiddle with focus. Now having reassembled I find there is a focus shift needed which I'll adjust out. Basically loosen off the grub screw and adjust the finder objective in/out as needed, tighten the grub screw and you're all set. Nicely thought out design on this little scope That finder is quite good too, I've even forgotten to pull it outward in the past and was looking at Venus via the finder instead of thru the OTA, even barlowed up and still getting a pretty good image which was a surprise!
  10. thanks Mark, it came out pretty good in the end, reassembly is pretty simple, literally reverse of dismantling and no odd bits left over at the end either, tho I was tempted to post a pic of some odds and ends and pose a question just for fun Just need to collimate it now and tidy some of the felt in the box. Ordered another EC110 nitrile end cap so it has matching ends, tho it will mean the finder can't fully retract with the cap fitted. Still fits fine into the case tho but am thinking about how to make a dual-cap arrangement so the end of the OTA and the finder can be covered together. Perhaps glue a plate onto the larger cap to attach the smaller one after cutting that to suit. Will be nice to get it out under the stars and see how it performs after the overhaul, especially with Jupiter and Saturn showing in the evening and the moon leading them across too, just the timing after the op but with this little scope I reckon I can move it in bits easily enough. Also ordered an EC120 for the 100RS, it's a little too wide but some felt should see it fit over the objective with the dew shield removed for storage/transport. Was never comfortable with the objective exposed in the box so perhaps an original cap went walkies over the years under prev ownership.
  11. yeah I saw that earlier too, one of the pics I was thinking a flat speaker, electrostatic type maybe... Great if it works and is all you want from looking at the stars, but good luck if anything stops working etc
  12. ahh I get the same Gina with insects sat on it or roaming about. Spidey even tried to make a web across it one time, IR lit web is a real PITA grrr
  13. worth trying it without the diagonal in the path, perhaps, in case that is adding too much extra length to the light path, are you getting closer to focus as you rack inward but just not quite getting there? I'd suggest remove the diagonal and just slot the barlow and eyepiece directly in the scope focuser tube. If that lets you reach focus then you'd maybe need to get a regular star diagonal as that'll add less compared to the erecting diagonal. Would also affirm that the barlow supplied is really for terrestrial use and not astro and perhaps getting a 2x shorter barlow as well would then gain you the flexibility, at least with the 20mm.
  14. Looks nice, like the red stars to finish the job too, shame we can't easily get a TAL logo sticker, almost tempted to find a hammer and sickle one
  15. Finally reached the end. The other day I sorted some stitch loops thru the acetone and flock along the edges, I know, maybe not needed but am playing safe given temperatures where this can be sat during the day times. Don't want the flock breaking free and resting on the mirrors after all. Won't bore with a pic of a sheet of black flock tho there's one of those further up this thread So today I cleaned the mirrors ready to go back and while they dried, reassembled the focuser and fitted back onto the OTA. Hopefully the alignment mark I made will have the finder still aligned with the main scope, will find out one day lol. With the mirrors clean and refitted I thought some vanity shots of it set up in the garden would be nice, tho only using a single pier section - less trips as I can't carry it assembled quite yet. and back in the nice baltic pine case I never did do a highlight of the latitude scale, I think there's not enough relief after the "baking the paint" experiment that turned the knuckle biscuit colour. I reckon I'd have to hard strip the paint with chemicals and start over on that part, another day maybe. Weird too how the pillar turned a slight off-white colour and they weren't baked other than sitting in the airing cupboard to cure the paint. Again, it'll wait Funny how bright sunlight brings the eye sharply to any slight blemish in the finish but overall it's pretty good and am pleased with the final result. It can always be done again in the future should it need it and I'll have learned how not to do some of the bits, esp the part about patience and light coats and wait... and NOT TO BAKE the paint!! I do think I'll need to sort some better felt for the case though as I can see some has lifted away. I'd like to better cover the sharp screw ends to protect the paint for a start, but it can wait for now. Also a place to stow the 32mm accessories (25+15 eyepiece and 3x barlow) that are dedicated to this scope, perhaps foam fit the wee box in the corner to hold them and the knuckle so they're safe and secure. Anyways, hope you enjoyed a few laughs at the goofs and perhaps useful a reference if anyone else want to do the same edit: Oh yeah, still got to collimate and then set the finder aim but that can wait for another day too...
  16. to give an idea of the difference flocking can make, I've just finished refit of the mirrors in my TAL-M, the spider is painted in blackboard paint, brush.
  17. Did think about wraps, but the need to rotate the OTA in the tube rings I thought would be an area where it'd start to lift and tear away so wouldn't look great after a short time. Powder coat was another possible, but seems that can add 0.5mm or so to the dimensions and during lockdown not so easy to go see people to price up etc. A simple flat paint coat is reasonably DIY even with limited place to do the spray work - the shed in my case, the TAL-M has turned out reasonably well so far tho I did go through several cans to get a nice finish lol
  18. I'd be worried that a slight knock and they'd all be on the ground. Guess you could always drill some suitable holder holes tho so they're secure and size ordered
  19. hmmm this thread is making me wonder which day-glo paint colour I should use when I come to refurb the TAL-1 one day. Too late for the TAL-M as that's already painted and close to reassembled, just waiting on the mirrors to dry off. Maybe some form of metallic pearlescent hot rod colour scheme, purple and gold flake...perhaps?
  20. be best to post pictures here in the thread as others will be able to add too. I expect they are basic plossl eyepieces and there are a lot better ones out there but it is what you have to work with. It is a beginner scope so will have limitations for sure, the eyepieces, the diagonal both could be improved upon. For astro you would be better to get/use a 90-degree star diagonal than an erecting one, you get an inverted image but less light loss. As mentioned by Niall, the supplied barlow will not be very useful, better to get another eyepiece in the 8-12mm range perhaps. Depends on how much more you're prepared to spend tho as eyepieces like the BST Starguiders are around £50 each for example. These can then be used on other scopes as you upgrade but it's an investment right after getting a scope that may not be what you want to do right now.
  21. a pure brass buffing wheel with a future plan to try this out on the finder bracket for the old vintage scope The old JPY grey+white just doesn't look right against black leather and brass, just need to figure how to fully dismantle that old Prinz type 6x finder (the silver tube and grey ring into the main tube just didn't want to shift last try) and then I can refinish it to suit too, tho I'd like to get the TAL-M refurb finished first. Am thinking along the lines of brassed foot and holder, the chrome tube and if metal also brass the dew shield, rest in black...
  22. good idea to have tested the fit, sounds nice and secure which is good. As to further mods, worth seeing how it performs as-is and then decide if you might gain anything from doing more, the gains reduce progressively I expect. As it stands it looks very good and certainly different, perhaps a fake shell nose cone on the end cap would amuse folks too As for the motor, if it still works then it may make things easier for tracking objects if you have the RA axis pointing north so you aren't having to be tweaking the manual controls to stay on target, you can just relax and enjoy the view. One for later on tho perhaps.
  23. sadly the eyepieces that are supplied with many scopes aren't always the best. The 25mm should be usable but the 4mm is that an SR4 by any chance or a plossl? The smaller the focal length (mm) the smaller the eye lens tends to be so it can be hard to use. If they supplied an SR4 then it's pretty much no use. Barlows can vary in quality too and a 3x isn't as useful as a 2x I think, at least in my experience. I'm guessing your mount isn't a tracking or goto type, so by the time you switch from the 25mm to that plus barlow the object you aimed at will have drifted across the field of view and would need to be found again. So you really need to get it well centred and perhaps even over to the left a little, so that if you are quick it might have stayed in view after swapping over. Have a try at the moon and see how switching over goes so you get an idea of the change in magnification and also how the target shifts. Also being very bright the 4mm might give you a view you can use. If you do decide you want to do more, then upgrading the eyepieces and barlow may be a good idea but ask here for advice and recommendations and focal lengths. We'll need the details of the scope - 80mm F400 is it? Assuming it is the 80AZS, looking that up it's supplied with an erect image diagonal, 20mm and 4mm plossl and a long 3x barlow. So that would give you magnifications: 25mm x16 20mm x20 4mm x100 Max useful magnification they state is x189 so the barlow is of no use with the 4mm as that significantly exceeds the scope's abilities. With the barlow and 25 or 20mm it would yield x48/x60 depending which you have. Planets will still look very small so you'd need the 4mm on its own to get a slightly better view.
  24. Does the 4mm work ok not barlow'd on the planets? That barlow would only be useful with the 25mm eyepiece giving you an effective 8mm. The 4mm eyepiece would put the magnification way over what that scope would be able to handle and you'd just see blackness. It should work with the 25mm though and give a higher magnification compared to the 25mm alone. You would need to be very centred on the target as shifting the magnification that far would put you off target otherwise and then you'd need to hunt for it again.
  25. Blackboard paint may be better than matt black as it'll be flatter in terms of light. Flocking is a sticky-backed black velvet that looks very dark as light isn't reflecting off the surface so may give a better image. Not had a chance to try it as I'm still completing the refurb on mine and at the mo can't lift heavy stuff so no chance of dragging a scope out to play. I expect yours will work just fine though, only object likely to cause surface reflections will be a bright moon after all Good move on the mirror and focuser, I squeezed the tangs in slightly on my original focuser so it held the 1.25-inchers snug and that worked ok too. Just have to remember when you flip the scope so they don't fall out. Know what you mean about mains, an RCD on the house end will help and a plastic box to place the connections into so they don't get damp on the ground would help. The original would give 12vAC I believe, worth checking if it all works and then you can decide if you might use it or if other works may be needed on that part. There's a thread here I think it was Mark who rebuilt it with a different motor and battery power source.
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