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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. ah, you're looking for it extending down into the tube hence affecting the light path to the primary, rather than obstructing the secondary
  2. as a thought, the focuser isn't down in the light path is it? as that'll add an obstruction that might be contributing to the 2/3 defocused circle.
  3. same site sells a lead that'd connect to the PSU with bare wire ends that you can attach to the camera, ideally by adding ring terminals. If you're planning on getting a goto mount that'll also use 12v then you might be better to get a higher output PSU than can be dual purposed using a Y-splitter to run the mount and the camera.
  4. the NatGeographic 76/350 is the same setup with the primary fixed and no collimation screws, as Alan suggests one way is to extend the fixing screw holes and tweak that way. With time and a lot of patience you might be able to shim the primary till the alignment is better and then secure it in position, so avoiding extending the screw holes. Have you tried refitting the mirror after rotating the carrier and see if that corrects things, woth trying it in each orientation before starting any real surgery on the OTA etc. You can also find that the secondary isn't aligned well with the focuser as in too far in/out of the OTA. Once you have it as good as you can get it, the tiny scope performs pretty well really.
  5. no worries, just mentioned it in case you didn't For sure compared to the ones that come with some scopes the plossls are a nice step up without breaking the bank
  6. any info on their site regarding any other ports used and if tcp/udp? Could be it needs a bit more opening than just the one port. As to powerline, they are better these days if using the MIMO types tho a huge amount depends on the mains wiring, crossing the consumer unit, electrical noise from things like LED bulbs etc. Also never mix different spec ratings or you slow the entire network to the slowest type on the grid. I run AV1300's and they hold up reliably giving 450-800mbps, tho you do see occasional stalls on the remote CCTV camera feeds. I have the PLAs set for streaming QOS and am running trunked vlan's over them. I've also read that some go sleep the ports if no apparent traffic, which you can work around by running occasional pings to devices the other side. Yeah you've a connection so shouldn't happen, but seems it can. My LAN switches I've turned off green mode too for the same reason.
  7. the 9mm will be dim compared to a lower mag EP, the more mag you try for the dimmer the image will get so choose carefully which others you go for. Most of the EPs I have are TAL plossl which are good, I also have Vixen 20mm and 10mm NPL also very nice.
  8. so some daytime testing, TV Aerial only aprox 100m away. Focus is a bit tricky with winds shifting everything around outside even with the 130 inside the conservatory. There's a few trees further out, say 200-250m again swaying about wildly but managed to focus. I note the in-focus range left is approx 0.5 inch and moving from aerial to trees I had to shift almost 0.5 inch inward, so perhaps the 130 might struggle to achieve focus on moon etc. I'd guess the TAL100RS would fair better as it has a lot of range on the focuser. I did have a brief try for the moon night before last, but just as I was getting somewhere the clouds took over and it disappeared altogether. Still, this little old cctv module just might get me started at low cost and then I can decide if I want to save some pennies for something better later on. Nice thing is the ability to image flip in camera settings so things are the right way up Methinks a focal reducer might be useful to add tho, 0.5x perhaps?
  9. I had considered getting the WiFi add-on for the EQ5 to save having to mess with date/time and location settings if I were to set up elsewhere. Shame they don't just build that functionality in but then it'd bump the cost and be something else to fail or cause frustration. Besides, the new job barely covers my costs so can't really justify that for the moment.
  10. Cloudy here, sky cam view is kinda cool at the mo tho
  11. worth trying it in the day and get accustomed to the controls, assuming you've not done that already. Doesn't necessarily have to be perfectly polar aligned and using a sky map app you should get an idea what stars might be up and approx where to see if it slews reasonably to targets it wants to align to. If that works then tell it to go to a target and see if it roughly gets there. You can check with your phone and app for this, if you can rig a way to hold the phone on the mount/OTA so its aiming along the scope then hopefully result should tally. Don't forget if you are making an adjust to centre a star during alignment to make the last to moves as up and right before you save it and move to the next. Oh - and polar aligner pro could help you getting the mount aligned in the day too, might make that step a bit easier.
  12. had a very brief glimpse of venus low between the trees via mk1 eyeball a few mins ago when I was out back having a smoke, then of course cloud took the bright ball in the sky away. Still, first view of a celestial object in a few days which was nice Would've been nice to try out the adapted ip-cctv on the moon but ain't gonna happen for a while I expect. Did manage a brief daytime test as was wfh today. Just able to get focus on distant trees/chimneys at 150-200m or so, so it might just work ok on moon/planets when the opportunity arises. Tried it out on the Tal100RS, TAL-1 and SW130 and all managed focus tho the TAL-1 won't be so useful given the short movement of the focuser and no motor drive. Will need to tweak camera settings for sure as image wasn't bright, similar to <10mm EP but its a step, albeit a baby one, probably the only CCTV with a 1000mm lens on it too lol
  13. from reading I did some time ago, best to normalise the batteries before hooking them together, so there's minimal voltage difference in which case you shouldn't get any arcs/sparks. Are you gonna use a controller between the panel and batteries?
  14. do you get a light image with the camera out of the scope and just pointing toward a lit area, a window or white wall for example? should give a flat white image on the screen. If that's not working reliably then there may be an issue with the unit or perhaps the gain settings, I assume you're using sharpcap to capture the video? I noted that you can set gain up to a point then thereafter more gain meant a dark image with an un-modded C270. I may well mod it for astro at some stage after my experiment with a IP-CCTV module once I've had a chance to test that one out.
  15. the 130M looks very like the SW130 I have, EQ2 mount and RA motor to track that can be switched for star/planet and runs off 4xD batteries. It's a competent scope tho I've yet to try it for any form of imaging. Eyepieces are OK tho I've a few better ones now so don't really use the originals. I'd double check tho if the mirror is parabolic, not sure it is since it doesn't specifically say tho I don't think it matters as much being a longer OTA version. Can't comment on the others you list as I've not met those myself
  16. yeah I'm not expecting great results tbh, still no harm in having a play given it's sat around spare - it was the module I first used for the sky-cam experiments till I got the 5MP module that also has relatively fast slow shutter of 1/10s. None of the CCTV modules really lend themselves to running long exposure unfortunately, but they are at least starvis sensors so with long enough video capture they might give some interesting results for little outlay, time will tell...
  17. so another cheapo experiment hopefully set and ready to try when (IF!) there's actually clear skies, tho I'd like to have a play in daylight first just to confirm focus can be achieved etc. Again using a spare Hik-able CCTV IMX290/291 sensor and webcam nose-piece with IR filter. It'll need 12V power and LAN to work, tho I guess I could also hook to it over WiFi. Limitations will be the 1/25 slowest shutter more than anything I expect but heck it'll be a free-ish experiment... Just need the moon or planets to play nice when the cloud cover opens up a bit. If it can capture any useful video on one of the tracking mounts to stack then it'll be an OK intro. I can always opt to mess with the Logi-C270 later but I think this sensor may be better than what's in the Logi.
  18. no harm in trying it out and see if its enough before spending extra
  19. if you're happy to go less wide... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-7mm-CS-Mount-Fisheye-Fish-Eye-Ultra-Wide-Angle-GLASS-CCTV-1-3-Lens-F-1-1-4/382826414881 might work ok tho I can't vouch for FOV, this one likely is the best but as noted, expensive https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fujinon-1-4mm-f-1-8-Fisheye-lens-CS-Mount-DF1-4HB-L1-Ideal-for-All-Sky-Camera/123866962892?hash=item1cd70bdbcc:g:HAkAAOSwDuZdSr43 I'm assuming CS mounting but that's a guess on my part
  20. I guess then that the ZWO doesn't run too warm? The IP CCTV module I use does so I've never had it dew up so far, only the first effort has had issues because a seal had failed but not got around to getting that apart as yet. If its dewing on the inside a couple silica gel sachets will help a lot too.
  21. easily done, I'll admit I didn't either but luckily didn't make contact. My rig the lens is quite close to the dome itself so its only the top 1/3 that matters in terms of the view. Clear RTV will do ok just take care clamping the dome down. Removal later would need a craft knife under the dome edge probably. Also let it set and air well if poss before fitting the camera/lens to avoid any outgassing affecting the optics. Or try getting an RTV that's ok for optics use. Re the lens, yeah they ain't cheap, I think Gina has the Fuji one on hers and tbh it's likely the best but are real pricey and IIRC CS mount not M12. I swapped the M12 for CS with switchable IRcut on the 5MP cctv module I'm using just to try a larger glass area but not sure it made a lot of difference. The hard bit is to get a fisheye lens that is F2 or faster that suits the sensor size, sadly there's few good choices and they're more expensive. The one I'm running at the mo is I think 2.1mm F1.8 and it seems to work ok but gives more like 150 degree rather than a full 180, so I run the camera inclined toward SE as that's gonna show a bit more of interest for my location.
  22. actually thinking about it, if the scratches are light, then brasso might work just as well too
  23. you might be able to polish the scratches out with something like a car headlight refurb kit, but then a new dome probably works out cheaper and won't result in any optical irregularities. Depends if the marks are in the visual line of sight vs the camera lens position. Defo worth taping over the dome next time, perhaps. What are you planning to seal under the dome edge with? I used a nitrile wide flat washer which seemed to work well on my el-cheapo rig and means the dome is easily removable compared to silicone RTV. You do want to avoid capilliary action drawing water in under the edge tho but don't want the clamping force to be so great as to distort/crack the dome rim. Some stainless washers might help spread the load a little? As for a lens, I think that's the harder part, what fitment is it, C/CS or M12? I guess lens speed is less of an issue given its an astro camera so can run slow exposure, but a decent F1.4-F2 can be pricey and you'd need to match against the sensor size if you want a full-360 with no clipping of 2 edges. I've seen fuji CS lenses come up but they're in the £90+ region. I guess you'd also need a lens with IRcut filter built in or you'll get some odd colour effects in daylight
  24. Enjoy the scope, was after one of those myself a while back but wasn't to be
  25. the Prinz 660 refractor? Lucky as that's reputed to be a very nice vintage scope. The filters would be 2 separate round components, one moon and one sun, that would screw into the bottom of the eyepiece as banjaxed has said. best to bin the sun one or at least seal it in a bag labelled "never use!". Not sure if this scope uses the older 0.96-inch eyepieces, in which case it may be hard to source replacements if they are missing, but IIRC you can mod the focuser to work with 1.25-inch EP's which makes obtaining better EP's a lot easier.
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