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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. As Steve says, the thread on CN indicates it ain't happening yet. Lets face it, those real new might get the scope kit then add an accessory kit then come to sites like this to find better eyepieces can be had and more stable scopes, so spend even more getting the DX version. So while there are some of us that'd like to hack the mount idea and use it on other scopes I wonder how big a market it might really be. That said there does seem to be a lot of interest so could well be a money spinner...
  2. oh I'm not thinking to bid on those, just the name got my attention and also the big sceptic wanted to have a look and laugh
  3. Came across this listing on the bay and thought huh?!? Pics show the usual objective arrangement so I guess that's just a marketing name/ploy https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YUKON-30-x-50mm-NEWTONIAN-REFLECTOR-BINOCULARS-FOR-SPARES-OR-REPAIR/193716043203?hash=item2d1a603dc3%3Ag%3ADssAAOSwNF1fjaoL&LH_ItemCondition=3000|7000
  4. interesting sky above here, those darker areas indicated seem to swoop upward into the higher darker cloud areas toward the centre of the image Occasionally at night you get a spiderweb type effect centring from that lower RH region too which I've put down to contrails or perhaps cloud driven up and over the hill from that direction.
  5. just a wee thought on the dome cover you have planned for Gina. When closed I assume it will rest in good contact at the base of the cover against the lip of the dome or casing? Reason I mention is that yesterday I had a lovely large pigeon attempt a landing on mine, had a couple goes at getting itself stable then gave up and flew off. Not sure the long arms would handle that sort of loading well enough but if the cover is fully home against the case then hopefully it'd be ok
  6. I agree Paul, walked away from ubuntu a long time ago. I recall it being a nightmare to configure networking properly, as in LAN unless you wanted generic DHCP. It'd keep resetting changes on a reboot when I edited the conf files etc. This shift to making *nix more like the woeful one in terms of point and click gui sometimes stomps all over the old tech ways of editing conf files directly. Used to be an ok OS build but morphed to something irritating I found. I started out with Slackware and RedHat a long time back, never really liked SUSE but now there's so many variations I so CBA to spend that much time finding one that suits what I want to do. I've worked on a few mainstream nix systems in large corporates and while they had quirks they at least were usually consistent in their behaviour. Hope you do manage to get round the wifi issue, but if it were me I'd stay with just the LAN connections as it'd be more stable.
  7. Straying from the main topic a little but playing with the LT70 scope I found the all plastic focuser quite stiff, so decided to attack that today. Easy to adjust with these 2 screws, back off slightly to slacken the focuser action or tighten to make it more stiff. Also decided to add a lock screw so it won't drift once I have the focuser running more smoothly, drill and tap for M4 and insert a nylon thumbscrew... To do that I of course dismantled the focuser and removed it from the OTA first: Undo the 2 screws under the focuser and lift the pinion away Pull the drawtube out Undo 3 screws holding the focuser body to the OTA. Was surprised that there's no spring plate under that U bracket holding the pinion as I've seen even on the cheap NatGeo I have. Still this is a real bottom end scope. Pick a spot and drill then tap for M4, clean up and refit in reverse of the above. I now have a smoother running focuser that I can adjust the drag or lock with that thumbscrew. Might as well make it feel nicer to use and at no cost why not
  8. well I guess if you wore one of those long hoods and had a scythe propped next to you they might steer well clear Mark especially with witching night coming up
  9. if you mean that the zoom being more than a single focal length eyepiece then please don't be fooled there. Zooms cost more because of the number of lenses and zoom mechanism but a single FL eyepiece will usually perform much better. Flip side is switching eyepieces then having to re-centre/find the target again which gives a zoom a level of convenience. Also the branded zooms are more expensive because you are paying for the name printed on them and perhaps a little more QC unless you jump to the more premium ones like the Baader. Did you find the SV171 in stock, took a little over a week to arrive for me buying via Ali. Certainly feels like a quality build and on the limited testing I've been able to do the views are good, narrower at the 24mm end and wider at the 8mm but easier to use than the small FL plossls with tiny lenses. It is a big heavy lump tho, not sure how a flex-tube would handle that but hopefully someone on here can advise on that front.
  10. So thinking more on the dew issue I've just ordered 8x 6.8 ohm 3W resistors that I can wire in series across a 12v feed, hopefully that'll do enough in the webcam dome. Also ordered one of these to turn it on/off as day becomes night etc. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XH-M131-Photoresistor-Module-DC-12V-Relay-Light-Control-Switch-Detection-Sensor/153096543279?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=452938694748&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Could build one but at that price, heck it'd be cheaper than collecting up the components etc.
  11. I don't have any specs, was just thinking to what I'd read in reviews of some of Sony's SLT cameras. The A77 SLT says the finder is "2.4M dot OLED viewfinder" so a reasonable resolution. Of course if there's no optics where the eyepiece is in the eVscope then a larger panel could be dropped in as per your suggestion to give a better impression of looking at the real object directly via the eyepiece.
  12. Sounds an interesting project, I hadn't realised the EVscope used an electronic eyepiece, thought it just displayed out to a tablet. Maybe they use the type of display in modern cameras for the improved resolution in a small panel?
  13. Cold out but dry at least so I thought I'd shift the small dome to give a little more of the NW view for the webcam version, lowered the wood trim piece a bit too. has shifted the view of the smaller cctv version slightly but not so bad, just cuts off the roofline a bit on the LH of the image. I guess the WDR abilities of the cctv module cope better with daytime viewing than the webcam in MS camera app. Still not found a better alternative for that. SharpCap does fine at night but not so much in the day. Remembered to RainX the domes while up there this time too Am considering what to do about dew heater for the webcam one and if it's even worth it. After all I'm not really trying to image with it so I may just leave it as-is unless things get worse as it gets colder. Of course it'd be more faff to do it then but... Might order some resistors meantime as I can always run a 12v feed into the unit, are there any that can auto-on using an LDR like the IR LEDs on CCTV modules as that'd probably be an ideal solution so it only heats in dark hours?
  14. is that for an eyepiece or both that plus a barlow? The Svbony SV135 (7-21mm) will soak most of that and a reasonable barlow would be another £30 or so, for example. https://www.svbony.com/SV135-1-25inch-Zoom-Eyepiece-/ The OVL Hyperflex is around £70 https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/p-ovl-hyperflex-7e-7-2-21-5mm-zoom-eyepiece-1-25-inch.htm The OVL Variable polarizing filter is around £25 on top if you go for one of these.
  15. oh well video just gave me a bright white blob, didn't expect I was going to get a result that was any good, I need time to figure the exposure settings etc and a tracking mount to keep it in view while I fiddle about. Still I was looking to give it a quick try having only got it today, Mars even seemed blue on screen some of the time with clouds crossing it so not the best conditions to attempt this. Next time I may try with the 100RS and VPL filter and maybe a 2x barlow as the EQ5 will at least track by just adjusting the RA or using the synscan one.
  16. I don't have the 130P but an older SW130 long tube among others as per my sig. Barlows I have 2x and 3x TAL as well as a couple 2x SW ones that came with the scopes which are OK tho I prefer the TAL ones. I rarely use the 3x as I find 2x more than enough with the eyepieces I have which range from 25mm-6.3mm TAL Plossl, 20+10mm Vixen NPL and a couple ortho's 12+9mm in the 1,25-inch set. I do have a variable polarizer that arrived the other day, not had the chance to try it out on planets as yet. I expect it should be good on the moon and bright planets as last time I had the chance to play the moon was like looking into a lightbulb. Hopefully should be more flexible than fixed density filters I already have.
  17. hehe yep the TAL-1 isn't light, being a solid ally OTA at near 1M length. It worked pretty well as pictured tho I could adjust where the phone rig sits. The Joby adjusts and holds very well once the screw is tight, it isn't a ball head so you have only a tilt axis. I didn't need to use the mini ball-head for this setup, for the EQ5 mounted 100RS I'd just have to "cope" with the phone tilting as I move around the sky being the mounting would be fixed to the dovetail bar
  18. so tonight I tested the TAL-1 rig with starsense, it seemed to work very well, quick position location and not phased by the EQ mount tilting the phone even so it was edge vertical as I panned around. Had to do a bit of balancing tho with the extra weight of the tube ring, holder and phone on top of the usual finder and eyepiece. But I think I can report that it will work on a GEM setup, tho I guess it may depend on the sensors your phone is equipped with. I'm using a note-10+ so pretty much top end of the range. Then switched to the LT70AZ on the OEM rig and again similar results, located quickly and directed just fine tho the phone of course does remain at a "better" position during the pan actions, no crazy tilt angles or rotating the OTA required Seems accurate enough to at least get you to the right part of the sky and on target for the lower power EPs before you home in with more magnification. Cloud now stops play here, managed to attempt some video capture with the LT70 and the Philips SPC900 tho probably poor as cloud had drifted over Mars' location as I was attempting this. Will have a play and see how it comes out in a while. For sure that'd have been a lot easier on the EQ5 mount with proper SloMo controls lol.
  19. I recently got the svbony sv171 8-24mm eyepiece, seems very good on the couple times I've had a chance to use it. It is huge tho but has held well in the low cost Celestron LT70AZ I recently purchased. If you can wait for it to arrive then the svbony store on Ali had them at around £50 tho seems to be out of stock for the moment https://www.svbony.com/svbony-sv171-zoom-eyepiece-8-24mm/ They also do a 7-21mm zoom that is smaller but I can't comment on that one. Seems the svbony range get reasonable reviews on CloudyNights so may be a better choice than the Celestron or other cheaper zooms.
  20. Added the scope nosepiece with IR filter Fitted it to the LT70AZ 70/700 scope to test with no diagonal in the path, not easy to hit focus on treetops that are blowing all over the place in the wind but A fair bit of CA but at least a result and that little scope should be able to hit focus on the planets at least. I expect the TAL100RS would give a better result but is a lot more effort to shift out for a very brief test.
  21. thought I'd try a couple Sky shots with the 2.1mm lens in place to see how this SPC900 does. Too narrow FoV and blocky at max 640x480 to be worth using as a SkyCam I think and I'd expect going wider with a 1.7mm lens would be even worse.
  22. yep, found it on the bay of E for £30, it's pretty much as new and even came in the original box. You can only get them used these days but they do come up every now and again, tho often at higher prices (>£45). Occasionally an astro-modded one pops up, last one I saw was around £50 with a serial cable (LX mod) but I didn't hit the bid/buy button on it. Just swapped the lens out for a 2.1mm wide that I had kicking around from my cctv mods. Only gives around 60 degree FoV so it wouldn't be much use for a SkyCam, with a 1.7mm it'd give a wider FoV, perhaps 120 or so. Resolution however isn't good given this only runs to max 640x480. I did find that Skype picks up this camera quite happily even tho the camera app in W10 doesn't, shows pretty well with the 2.1mm for use as a webcam should I need it for that purpose. Will drop the scope nosepiece into it later and have a play with one of the fracs and see how it does.
  23. today this got dropped off Installed the driver on the W10 desktop and SharpCap picks it up just fine, tho Camera app doesn't and looking in device mangler I guess I'm not surprised as it apparently isn't a camera Still it works which is the main thing. Hasn't been LX modded not sure if I'll bother to but a quick search didn't find the how-to as the site seems to have vanished. Main aim I guess will be to have a play with imaging planets so LX isn't such an issue. I see in Sharpcap that the slowest shutter is 1/30s on this SPC900NC where the Logi C270 goes to 1sec and the Dericam HD that I took apart for the SkyCam goes to 1/2s so I guess I have some options on which to use for the desktop and which for night sky use between the Logi and the Philips.
  24. Funny coincidence John but I have a mini ball-head also but hadn't thought to use it for this mod. One handy thing I realised was that the camera flash bars I bought fit that finder shoe I just received tho would be too wide for a regular Synta one. Might be worth me fitting this shoe to the vintage scope so the starsense can be used there too For reference this is the view from the Celestron OEM mount off the mirror with my phone (note 10+). Still get some clipping at the top corners and the phone obstructing the bottom part, hence I think a prism will perform just fine and did in early tests. I guess the view with the mirror rig will vary according to phone and position of the cameras, shame the note-3 can't work for this as the camera was better positioned for this use-case compared to where the 10+ ones are. So with this in mind and having built a holder for the prism, I've moved the OEM mount back onto the LT70 and using a tube ring here's the rig on the TAL-1 Now I think this may be workable on the EQ mount and if I run into issues with the angle I can always do what you normally do with a newt in an EQ mount to sort the focuser angle... rotate the OTA or in this case, just the starsense finder if necessary being it is on an independent ring. For the 100RS and SW130 I wouldn't have this flexibility unless I acquire an additional tube ring for them which I'm not planning to quite yet.
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