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Everything posted by Alestrom

  1. Very nice and better than my go at the same thing, it looks very delicate where it dissipates at the edges. Out of interest, it shows blue where I got green, and I've noticed the same effect in different images of M27 before, I wonder why this is and if it's just down to different processing/cameras. What would the true colour be, if any? Visually it looks white to me.
  2. Thank you It looks okay as long as you don't open the image too wide! I am very pleased with the nebula itself though. It's certainly better than my first attempt, taken with a compact camera strapped to the eyepeice with an elastic band - I stacked 3 8-sec exposures and got this, about a year ago. Fingers crossed will be upgrading my mount soon and I can start autoguiding - thinking of getting a HEQ5 and one of those new synguiders, does this sound like a good choice (money permitting of course...)?
  3. 6 x 2 mins @ F5 ISO 800, CLS filter same darks Through skywatcher 150 manually guided (not very well as it turns out!) with toy refractor. Stacked in DSS, processed in CS3. My second attempt with this equipment configuration, and first at this target.
  4. Cheers guys. I have been pleasantly surprised by how much red emission is picked up by the unmodded camera, adding a decent light pollution filter made all the difference, before I just couldn't do long enough exposures. I think the mod will be put on the back burner for the moment...
  5. The Butterfly Nebula IC 1318 190mm focal length (Sigma zoom lens) umodded 1000d with CLS filter 5 x 4mins @ F5 ISO 800 4 x darks Manually guided with my toy refractor (national geographic) Processed in Pixinsight LE and Photoshop CS3 Just as a matter of interest, where does this forum draw the line between deep sky and widefield? IE is this in the wrong place? Subjective I know
  6. Just to back up the point, and the review mentioned above, here are two images of (roughly) the same area of sky. They were taken on different nights about a week apart, but similar conditions. Both are at F3.2 and ISO800, same camera and lens. The first is 112 seconds without the cls, the other is 240 seconds with it. The only other difference is the white balance used, daylight for first, custom for second. No processing of either except converting to jpg.
  7. Will sort something out for you. Trust me, there's no comparison. Without the filter an exposure half as long is almost white in the background from overexposure (your site may of course be better than mine). I can process most of it out, but it makes what's left look much more artificial and it removes the red I want to capture.
  8. Psychobilly: It's the CLS-CCD clip in, ie the one that includes an IR filter. I thought it was worth the extra £20 as I may mod the camera. I was going to do it myself, but now it doesn't seem too urgent, and I may wait until I can afford to get it done professionally. Themos: It's money well spent!
  9. Update: I have found a work-around to the red fringing - if I focus slightly short of spot on, the fringes disappear. As I suspected, must be the extra layer of glass causing the different wavelengths to focus slightly differently. Testing on Arcturus (obviously very bright and plenty of red I couls actually see the red fringe in live view...
  10. Very nice, never seen any noctilucent clouds myself...
  11. That's really cool mate, unusual and creative with the silhouettes (is that spelt right?!) of the buildings and whatnot
  12. Hi Started taking astro-photos again after a long hiatus. I now have two new toys in the box - a Canon 50mm F1.8 lens and the astronomik cls clip filter. I had been wondering whether to brave removing the IR filter on my camera, but after this test shot I have decided it can wait. Single 4 minute exposure at F3.2, ISO 800. I used a custom white balance, otherwise the sky is bright blue! Before I got the filter, the longest I could have gone is about 1.5min, with a completely saturated sky (East Kent area). Although I have picked up NGC 7000 before, it was always a pale and watery incarnation. This filter is pretty nifty! One thing I noticed is some red fringing to the stars, which I never had before when I tested this lens. Could this be due to the filter interfering with the focus point of the lens maybe? I desaturated the stars in this one to make it less annoying. Anyway, I hope someone finds this interesting/useful.
  13. Hello everyone. I've not been on the forum for about a month now, what with college work commitments and other things. The are certainly some impressive images from this week's POW, such as Psychobilly's Cygnus and Greekastronmy's M5, not to mention the winning pic... Anyway last night was my first astronomy related activity for some time apart from the odd binocular session. Planned to do some widefield camera lens shots as I didn't have too much time. Typically, the clouds came in just as I was set up, so I only grabbed this one image - I had intended to take a few subs of this area and stack them but oh well, this was a test shot but it's ended up as the finished result! Canon 18 - 55mm kit lens (the non-IS one) Focal length about 40mm 1x30 sec exposure at ISO800 & F5 Hope it's not too bad... Looking forward to some free time in a month or so, clear skies to all
  14. That is right, some of the drift in the picture is actually from that rather than R.A. I think, I drift aligned to allow for 2 minute exposures but then I got carried away... Cheers for the advice
  15. Cheers Sam I saw you post with the write-up of the hand controller mod, looks well worth a go. One thing springs to mid which is that I only have the single axis rather than the double one, would the process be more or less the same? I considered using a finder, but for manual the focal length isn't long enough and the NG scope has a focuser which works surprisingly well.
  16. M51 again, but a different experiment in manual guiding. This is the genesis of an idea that has been knocking around in my head for a while now - I cannot mount a proper guidscope on my Skywatcher 150 and EQ3-2 as the weight would be too much. So I have bodged a guidescope out of a National Geographic 50mm toy refractor, the lens from a barlow and some other bits. I mounted this on the empty declination motor lug using a ball-and-socket joint, gave it a go last Sunday. Balances with some to spare, I may post the details of the modification on the DIY Astronomer section if anyone's interested? I also may review the scope as it's kind of cool in a really naff way I was able to guide sitting on the ground in a kind of lotus position, R.A. control in one hand and the shutter release in the other. I timed the exposures with the stopwatch on my phone. The prof of the pudding is of course in the eating - this is the result of 6 x 4 minute exposures (ISO800) and 7 darks frames. I would have gone for more, but the clouds had other ideas (my back would probably have allowed me ten frames which was my target). This is my fourth attempt at processing the stack (in PixInsight LE), still not right it but the best so far. I have also attached a test frame which was unguided as a comparison. The guiding is certainly not perfect, but definately an improvement... The question is, now do I attempt to modify the hand controller to accept an webcam guider input, or just wait til I can afford a 'proper' setup I hope you like and find this of interest - clear skies.
  17. Wow. The amount of detail and colour in there is amazing...
  18. It certainly did! Another issue I have is that I don't have a programable shutter release, so I had to keep looking away to check the exposure length! Because of this, some of the subs were longer than they should have been (one was 2 mins 21) but I overrode this in DSS to tell it they were all the same. Doesn't seem to have caused a problem... Cheers everyone. I can't wait to try this setup on a larger target - M31, M45 and NGC7000 spring to mind. Shame it's the wrong time of year... Any suggestions for the spring?
  19. Thanks. I am quite hampered by my mount, I have to choose between a small image scale like this or a larger scale through the newt. with smeared stars!
  20. I second the compliments, I would love to be able to capture that amount of structure in a galaxy image!
  21. One thing I forgot to mention that may be of interest to anyone with an EQ3-2 mount - the counterbalance weights were not heavy enough to balance the sope, camera and lens - I had to gaffer tape a small dumbbell to one of them!
  22. Hi This is my first attempt at guiding (manually), from last night. I piggybacked my 1000D and Sigma lens onto my reflector, using the main scope to guide (turns out to be a painfull process stooping over to eyepiece level for so long!). I also did my most thorough drift align - but like a fool I did this before mounting the camera so I'm pretty sure I moved it, also not helped by kicking one of tripod legs slightly... Still with no time to put it right (work in the morning, 6.30 alarm) so I went with it, hence there was some drift North-South. I only have a motor drive for the RA axis, so I couldn't compensate for this. I found it surprising how many stars can be seen through the camera viewfinder when the focus is spot on, I could star-hop straight to M51 that way. Anyway here is the result, and a crop of the galaxy area. 19 x 2 minute subs and same of dark frames, at ISO800. Lens at 300mm f/5.6 Stacked in DSS with Sigma-Kappa method. Processed in PixInsight LE Any suggestions or criticisms welcome, I am just getting to grips with image processing
  23. Very nice, I like the contrast between the foreground and the sunset gradient and the wispy clouds.
  24. I was setting up my stuff tonight hoping for a good run practicing my imaging, got to the drift alignment stage and a huge blanket of clouds appeared, proceeding to cover the whole sky and stay put... Still, earlier I took a few shots as Venus and Mercury were decending out of view so I do have something to show. Apparently only about 1% of the Earth's population have even seen Mercury, I've spotted it on about a dozen occasions but it still feels a bit special I think. 100mm focal length at F4, 1/5th second exposure, ISO 800
  25. Thanks everyone. Just set up to try and do some imaging, got to drift aligning and then the clouds rolled in. Typical
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