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About UKAstroBill

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  1. I'm loving my Hypercam 26C. Works great with Altair Capture and there has been a driver update for ASCOM gear so I am migrating to NINA. When I bought it the Altair was about £400 cheaper than the 2600. That has narrowed since I see. Having only had it a short while my processing is not necessarily optimal for the output of the camera, and I only stopped using a Nikon Z6 in the autumn, but my first two shots with the 26C are on astrobin at https://www.astrobin.com/full/scybuo/0/ https://www.astrobin.com/full/zv20wu/0/ both are OSC jobs - M31 with an IDAS NGS and the Roset
  2. That's a great response. Look forward to trying it. Thanks! By the way I just tried cloud makers and AstroImager looked like it could talk to my camera and I could operate the cooling and set some other choices, but was unable to capture a photo. Bizarre.
  3. OK so here is an interesting fact about oacapture and oalive. As they download right now they do not see the Hypercam 269c. BUT - if you grab the libaltaircam.dylib file from the latest Altair Capture and stick it into the oalive/capture package directory then the oa stuff does recognise the 269c, and as far as I can tell it works well apart from not having the cooler controls. So it would seem to me that only a small amount of work recompiling with the latest SDK ought to enable it properly. Hint hint! Altair Capture under MacOS works fine with the 269c apart from only saving 8 bit per
  4. I'll give oalive a go when I have finished trying to make sense of deBayering what I got from Windows Capture under Parallels. ADDED: Capture seems to like GBRG in APP and DSS for the 269c. I think it must be to do with ROWORDER things on the Bayer Matrix. APP reads the FITS files as RGGB and wants to process them that way. You have to use tab 0, and force the CFA to GBRG and then the stacked files look sensibly coloured.
  5. I’m in this boat with my Mac and a new 269c Hypercam. 1. MacOS Altair Capture works ok on my faster 2018 MacBook Pro but does not work properly on my older 2012 MBP with only USB2. I say OK because it appears to be limited to saving TIF files in 8 bits per channel. I’m not doing live stacking as I do that offline in APP. I’ve got the Windows version working as of last night under Parallels and it appears to offer fits file saving using the full bit depth. I have raised a ticket with Altair on the question of the Mac version having fuller bit depth support. 2. Also working with
  6. Guidescope option looks wimpy. I think my Asiair Pro kit has a similar spec one and I got that to see if I can improve tracking on the SkyGuider Pro.
  7. On this same issue I do not want to modify my CEM40 as I want to switch regularly between single and dual operation. Is there a side by side kit that (a) comes with a dovetail fitted to the cross bar at right angles, that dovetail pointing in the same direction as the two telescope mounts; (b) the two mounts have brackets supporting both Losmandy and Vixen (c) one side can be adapted to finder/guide shoe, preferably with directional adjustments? Maybe I’m being lazy, but I just want to be able to swap between one and two with no fuss. I’m pretty sure I could do it wit
  8. I’ve had the Astro Hutech part for a few weeks now and am really pleased with it. The optical length calibration for IDAS filters is perfect and the body lens interface is rock solid. Mine is the one coupling Nikon Z bodies to Nikon F lenses and it has a mechanical control for adjusting aperture on G type lenses. So you can adjust aperture from the adapter on non E Nikons and 3rd party lenses from Sigma for example. It’s calibrated for the IDAS range so that’s for filters that are 2.5mm thick. Thinner filters from other manufacturers will usually fit but you might not be able to achieve infini
  9. Just looking at adapting one of these to an APM 107/700. If anyone has done that I’d be interested to know what adapters people used and if any spacing issues arose. Looks like I can go from m82 to m68 then to the m68 adapter starizona sell. I have m82 adapter Already on the focuser to take the Riccardi FF. in passing I note Starizona sell a 2in extension as necessary for the Esprit 120/150. Presumably this is a recent addition given comments above. If anyone has one of these on a scope around 100-110mm I’d be keen to see a flat taken on 35mm sensor, or better still a 1:1 24mm x24mm
  10. 533 is looking very attractive to me not just on price and amp glow but because it is square. Square sensors make a lot more sense for astro. Limited circular fields of illumination are best utilised by square sensors and there is no up in space. I just wish it was bigger. 20mm x 20mm would suit my scopes best and I’d like the lower noise of larger pixels.
  11. Borg responded with the useful detail that their filter adapter has an optical length of 31.3mm and is designed for IDAS filters, of thickness 2.5mm and refractive index 1.5168. So they have decided to calibrate well for a certain thickness, which makes a lot of sense. I’m ordering one and will try it out in comparison with the 2 inch version of FAstroTZ.
  12. All kinds of possibilities. Just make sure that when you screw in a filter it is clear of the sensor and the end of the lens. The Geoptik has plenty of clearance to ensure this and I screw the filter assembly well in to be clear of the lens. 1.25 is plenty for a 4/3 or DX sensor. meanwhile Borg have confirmed their part is fixed length and indicated they designed it with IDAS filters in mind. I hope to get more details after Thanksgiving. Don’t know the optical length yet.
  13. Space Oddities: I think it would be sensible for me to compare the Borg device to my 2inch prototype when I get to the next stage. I’ve emailed AstroHutech to ask them some questions especially about its optical length. Eg is the fixed length the same as the FTZ or is it calibrated at eg around 2mm filters with a larger optical length. Can you tell me what lenses you Use it with and what the image quality is like edge to edge? When I first built the 1.25 gadget I calibrated it to the FTZ by matching infinity focus without filters. When I put an Optolong l enhancer or Baader Halpha in
  14. I’m not sure if direction matters! For a filter where it is the body of the material that does the job it can’t matter. I’ve been a bit anxious about whether a more complex layered design would be sensitive to it. Both the contraption in the video and my 2 inch prototype have the filter “right” way up but for the 1.25 case that was more to do with moving the filter away from the lens to kill the vignetting as much as possible. I’m more concerned about getting the right Backfocus though. A couple of days ago I spent some time calibrating the infinity focus on my gadget to various or no filters.
  15. Thanks Mark - There is some discussion of this in the video. On the Nikon 200-500 there is hard vignetting at 500 but the 1:1 crop is fine. On a dedicated telescope you would almost certainly get the same. On my scopes (an APM 107/700 and a Celestron C6 with reducer) I have 2 inch filters in line and just do not use this contraption.
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