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Everything posted by bigal1

  1. For M13 i have tried longer but always seems to blow the core out too much but aside from that my mount is only a CG-4 with standard motors installed so 1 minute 30 secs is the longest i can do ( without learning drift alignment ) i have just done the guide port mod to the handset so hopfuly soon i should be able to get longer subs fingers crossed .
  2. Hi folks managed to get out lastnight and do more testing with my new 70mm scope , seem to be getting to grips with the setup but i think my processing skills need to be better as i seem to be getting some kind of blotchyness to the background ? not sure if my flats could be at fault as they look ok gradient wise but they show no signs of dust at all which i am sceptical of . I'm quite happy to have captured the propeller in M13 and for once the skies stayed clear of cloud for more than 4 hours lol , Bodes was 1 hour 15 mins total using 45 second subs and M13 was 51 mins total using 45 second subs plus matching flats , darks and bias for both targets . Regards Alan
  3. I rekon it is sure worth a shot , try get the best polar alignment you can and if you keep the focal length rather short a minute or possably more maybe ?
  4. Top class image one to be proud of for sure
  5. Hey all i managed another test a few nights ago with my recently aquired IKI70 ED scope , M57 wasn't my first choice for testing using such a small scope but the clouds were moving in fast and M57 is so easy to locate that was the one . I was seeing how my Skywatcher field flattener performed and it has sure made a good difference although i still have elongated stars but no where near as bad as without , next time out i'll test with different spacers as somebody else at SGL had better results using a 10mm spacer . Equipment used was an IKI70 ED scope and a Canon 1000d mounted on a CG-4 with motors installed , final image is a stack of 57 lights @ 60 second exposure 800 iso plus matching darks flats and bias frame ( first time trying to use flats and bias ) . Regards Alan
  6. Hi folks well i've started to take flats although for now only using a laptop screen but it does seem to have made a big difference in processing but what i wanted to know is do my flats have to be taken at the same iso as my lights ? a lot of sources on the net say to use the lowest iso for flats ( iso 100 ) but when i stack in DSS is warns me that the flat iso does not match up with the lights ? they still seemed to work but it got me questioning my methods , any advice is much appreciated thanks . Regards Alan
  7. 2 very good images you got there good work
  8. Excellent set of images well done
  9. My Moon images are stacked dslr subs about 30 to a stack on each image .
  10. I also did the IR mod and the remote they made a huge difference .
  11. Hi Chris i had the older Samsung model the 435 and used it with both my Skymax 127 mak and my C80ED , it worked great with both scopes but i did find the focal reducer handy mine was an cheap Astro engineering 0.6x one . The camera was better on a lot of things with the C80ED due to it being a lot faster focal ratio than the mak but the mak was great on star clusters using the reducer hope this helps . Just found an image well a mosaic actually i took of the Moon using the Samsung SDC435 and my Mak , think it was just a few seperate frames which made up the mosaic . Regards Alan
  12. I have used my Philips webcam for all my planetary images ( still need to buy an Imaging source cam ) but i'm afraid i cannot remember what the settings were i used for the Jupiter image . I always take between 2000 and 35000 frames @ 10fps using YUY2 codec , i never touch the brightness just leave at default level ( mid point in Sharpcap ) and just adjust exposure and gain for brightness control . For all planetary images besides Venus i used 1/25 exposure then tweaked the gain till the image was not too bright or dim on screen , gamma is set to 0 and i have saturation at max plus i always start with auto color balance enabled leave to settle for a min then freeze it which seems to give me the best color settings .
  13. Nice images James it is a pitty Saturn is so low atm i really am missing out this season ( too low from my location to see )
  14. I had a root through my astro images and i rekon these are my best images i have taken with the good old Skymax 127 over the last 3 or so years
  15. The images were made from single photos shot in raw mode then stacked in deepsky stacker .
  16. The left image is M13 to the right is M27 and underneath is M57 , i used a T ring adaptor for my Canon 1000d and a 1.25" telescope adaptor which screws into the T ring . All the images were only 30 seconds in length as my mount which is a Cg-4 ( Eq-3 ) with motors is unguided , when i took the M13 image my polar alignment was off as you can see by the stars but the other two were better . I also took same ammount of darks as lights for each image which was no more than 40 for each object , hope it helps .
  17. No filter for these images just the canon 1000d at prime focus .
  18. I have used virtual dub on many occasions to splice 2 avi's together works great quick and easy then put the finished result into registax , if its a planet and the avi's were captured too far appart ( time wise ) you may get rotational blur in the stacked image so when i have done this in the past i've made sure the 2 joined avi's were captured back to back .
  19. These were all taken with the 127 mak unguided though so at that focal length subs cannot be too long .
  20. I gotta say that i used the tips provided in the video link a while back and replacing the grub screws made a huge difference and allowed me for the first time to get it calibrated perfectly well worth it imo .
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