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Posts posted by BazMark

  1. Does the speed relate to increased frequency of light captured in being interpreted by the brain? pfwffff I'm lost!

    Hi Daniel,

    The way I understand the 'speed' thing is that the 'speed' of a scope is related to the length of the light path between the objective lens / primary mirror and the focal point of a given aperture scope.

    ie:. In a short focal length 6inch scope the light reaches the focal point quicker after it passes the primary mirror or objective lens than it does in the same aperture scope with a longer focal length. Therefore it is known as a 'faster' scope than one with a longer focal length.

    If I've got this wrong then I'm sure someone will correct me.

  2. I find a green laser pointer taped to the top of my scope useful for finding targets. I set up on a bright star. Centre it in my FOV using my 9x50 finderscope. Then line up my laser so that it is dead on target. After that I just point the scope / laser to where the target should be using a star chart.

  3. I've had my SW 127 Mak for nearly a year now and I love it. Though I found the GoTo useful at first I don't use it at all now. I just use the slew controls to move the scope to where I wan't to view.

    After I aligned my finder scope for the first time I found that it moved slightly as a result of removing it and refitting it prior to each session. It's not so far off that the object is not in the field of view (FOV), just not centred. So the first thing I do when I start each session is to locate a bright star in the finder then check the main scope and centre the star in it's FOV then go back to the finder and tweak the finder screws to centre the object in the cross hairs again. That way unless I really badly knock the finder when removing and refitting it will always work when I refit it especially with a low power EP.

  4. I ordered a pair from FLO Friday eve and they arrived today. They really are good. I've been out with them this evening and even with a nearly full moon washing out the sky I can clearly see the behive cluster which I can't see at all with the naked eye. M42 looked real nice too as does the Pleiades and also the double cluster in Perseus.

    Over all I'm very impressed. Can't wait to try them out without the moon washing out the sky.

  5. I purchased a Skymax 127 with GoTo last year but soon got fed up with telling it to go to objects you just can't see with the scope. I now don't use the GoTo at all. I wish now I'd gone for the Autotrack version.

    The views of the planets and moon with the scope though are terrific. As for the high power EP I don't know what your skies are like but I've found that my 6mm EP pushes the scope right to the limit. I would recommend a 7 or 8mm.

  6. I wouldn't go for any of those either for good planetary viewing.

    I second the skymax 102 mak on the EQ mount or the 127 mak on the Supatrak mount.

    I have the 127 GoTo version but as I've said on other posts once I learned my way around I found I wasn't using it. I wish now I'd either gone for the EQ mount or the Supatrak mount and spent the extra cash on better EPs.

    But you question was about scopes. Either the 102 or 127 Mak and whichever mount fits our budget would be my answer.

  7. I purchased my Skymax 127 mak on the GoTo mount a little under a year ago and now I can't remember the last time I used the GoTo. I Like to find things on my own so to speak. I use Stelarium to locate where objects that I want to view are then hunt them down myself. I can't be bothered setting the GoTo up so I just use the slew controls. If I were spending my money again I would either purchase it on the supatrak or the EQ mount.

  8. I remember being astounded at the Pleiades and Beehive clusters when I first saw them in a SW 114PM I used to own. I can make out about 6 or 7 stars in the Pleiades without the use of a scope and I can't see the Beehive cluster at all due to light pollution were I live (Basildon Essex). But with a scope, even a small one, it's truly amazing what's over our head.

  9. I use UNIROSS HYBRIO batteries in mine with no problems. I've been out for a couple of hours on occasion, then left them for a couple of weeks without recharging and had another decent session before having to recharge them. I haven't had a problem yet due to low voltage and I've had them for 8 months or so now. I'm guessing it must move slower due to only running on 9.6v but I can't say I noticed a significant drop in speed when I switched from dry cells.

  10. I have a pair of the 10x50 Rocktrails with Bak 4 prisms that Lidl sell. They give pin sharp views of the stars and moon.

    However, I recently purchased a pair of the 10-30x60 zoom binos by the same manufacturer form Lidl. I didn't expect much in view of the price but I thought I'd try them. After having to take the first pair back as they were seriously out of line, the second pair didn't seem too bad. However, having had them three weeks they now seem to need collimating every time I use them. The view through them at 10x is also not as crisp as the 10x50s. This may be because they use Bak 7 prisms instead of the Bak 4 prisms in the 10x50s. So I wouldn't recommend the zoom version of the Rocktrails.

  11. I have evenings when I go out with my scope and a pair of 10x50 bins. I scour the skies with my bins till I find something that appears a little different then train my scope on it. Then check with 'Stellarium' (the free planetarium software) to see what I've found. My scope is on a GoTo mount but I haven't used it for ages.

  12. Are you allowing all your equipment to cool down sufficiently before using it?

    I have the 127 Mak and I get a similar problem when I don't allow my eyepieces to cool down enough before using them. If I take them outside and start to use them straight away, they fog up a little and the secondary mirror (at least I think that's what it is) cast's it's shadow on the fogged lens in the eyepiece. It is definitely more noticeable when viewing stars or planets as opposed to the moon. It's the only explanation I've come up with. Of course it might not be the correct one but the problem seems to disappear if I allow everything to cool down for at least half an hour before viewing.

  13. Having an excellent pair of Rocktrail 10x50s from lidl's I decided to try their zoom binos. The first pair were badly in need of collimation. They were way off at all mags. I took them back and got them replaced and the second pair were only slightly off. At 10x my eyes pulled the images together - not ideal I know - but at 30x they were significantly off. Also at 30x the dioptre adjustment on the right eyepiece is not very good as you have to have it turned up to the stop and even then it's not quite right.

    I dicided to have a go at collimating them myself using the prism adjustment screws under the rubber jacket. I did this using a the stars in the 'handle' of 'Ursa Major' as the target and at max mag.

    Once completed these binos were not bad. The are not the best by a mile but for £15 l have a reasonably good pair of 10-20x zoom binos. 30x is not so good largely due to the dioptre problem mentioned above.

  14. Strangest thing I ever saw whilst doing a spot of binocular astronomy one evening a few years ago was two star like objects, each made up of a bright red and white light (one within the other) shoot from west to east very fast (10 secs or less to go from horizon to horizon)

    One object went dead straight, right across the sky and the other 'flew' in from the NW and at the point where it should have intersected the path of the other it just stopped going NW to SE and joined the other one on it's path. It didn't sweep round, just changed direction and then travelled side by side with the other object to the eastern horizon.

    I've never found a believable explanation that fits what I saw. I just set it to one side and maybe one day I'll find an explanation that fits.

  15. What about a Skymax 127 Mak or it's Celestron counterpart (Celestron Nexstar 127 SLT)

    This is a very compact scope but with excellent optics and will give real crisp views of both the moon and major planets as well as see many of the brighter deep space objects (DSOs). The Skwatcher version is available on a range of mounts including an equatorial, an auto tracking or full GoTo and tracking mount.

    Though this scope doesn't have the aperture of some of the other scopes that have been mentioned, many owners who have both types indicate that the 127 (5inch) Mak gives sharper views of the moon and planets than it's somewhat larger newtonian counterparts. However, it won't see as many DSOs as the larger reflectors (Newtonians)

    If I were to buy mine again with a budget of £400, I would opt for the auto tracking version and grab a couple of extra eyepieces, either a 32mm or 40mm plossl EP for low power viewing and an good quality 8mm for high power viewing.

    Whatever you end up choosing though, I'm sure your partner will gain much enjoyment from your gift.

  16. Hi Stargazer,

    Check out the supplier reviews section of this site before deciding who to buy from. Sometimes an apparent good deal can turn into a nightmare when dealing with some traders. I can personally recommend this sites sponsor FLO (click banner at top of page) and I've also had good dealings with Harrison Telescopes.

    I've also had some terrible dealings with others, the store mentioned in your post being one of them.

  17. Is this what you are looking to do?

    I actually ended up sending the heritage back as i found the skymax was just so much better.. decided to get a bigger reflector instead

    Yes, thankyou that is exactly what I was looking for.

    However, I'm not looking to improve on the performance of the Skymax for viewing planets or the moon. I was hoping it would be better for viewing the larger DSOs that the skymax tends to see through due to it's narrower FOV and higher mags.

    For example, I used to own a SW 1145p and with that I could see dozens of stars in the Beehive and Pleiades clusters framed in black sky in the FOV. I could also see M31 and faintly M110 nearby. However the lowest mag I can get with the Mak is 37x (with a 40mm EP) due to it's long focal length. This combined with it's narrow FOV means that I see right through the middle of the larger star clusters such as the Beehive and the Pleiades. I am also unable to see M110 near M31 with the Mak. Even the double cluster in Perseus almost completely fills the FOV of the Mak at 37x.

    Whould you say that the Heritage with it's lower mag capability and wider FOVs was not as good as the Mak127 at viewing these objects even?


  18. Can anyone tell me if the above two telescopes from Skywatcher use the same size dovetail?

    The reason I ask is that I already own the Skymax Mak 127 and though it is a superb scope for planetary viewing and even the brighter DSOs, I prefer to view star clusters through the wider FOVs produced in faster scopes such as the f5 SW 130p.

    However, the SW 130p OTA can't be obtained separately from the SupaTrak or SynScan mount and I don't want two auto type mounts. However, I noticed recently that the Heritage 130p has what appears to be the same type of dovetail fitting. If it did fit the GoTo mount I could purchase one and switch between scopes fairly quickly when I want to.

  19. The scope may simply be hugely out of focus? The "crescent" you see flash by, might just be the various "curves", which are seen when a bright object is outside the field of view.

    This is especially true since re-reading your last post Briano, I noticed you said that the moon was 'full' when you were trying out your scope. So you would not have seen a cresent moon unless you were describing it's limb (curved edge)

  20. i tried for hours fiddling with the focus knob and for a second see the cresent but then it dissapeared and was back to the bright light. i'm sure i'll suss it all out. thanks again all.

    It sounds like the moon moved out of the field of view whilst you were trying to focus on it. Did you use the GoTo to locate the moon or just the directional controls?

    Something else you could try is to locate Jupiter. Nice bright target along with it's moons and with the 25mm EP you should be able to get a nice crisp view as Arushin pointed out. Once you have it in focus you can slew round to the moon and you should only have small adjustments to make to get best focus.

    Another useful feature of the remote control on this scope is the ability to change the slew speed by pressing '2' followed by one of the other numerical keys '1' to '9' as the normal slew speed ('9') is far too fast once you have you target in your field of view (FOV).

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