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About fifeskies

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    Fife , Scotland
  1. Just saw this thread and was pleased to see that someone else went for the curved ROR design I decided to go for a thin aluminium sheet skin on mine (it had been designed to match the sheet size) Lightweight and zero maintenance has survived the 2 big storms we have just had without any issues Still working on finishing the inside of mine but almost there now photo shows slight distortion as its a panorama shot to get the whole roof in from the ladder viewpoint the curve is actually uniform without the kink
  2. Help , I have a seal on my roof 20200201_162524.mp4
  3. Given that you would need to run a mains cable anyway have you considered keeping the supply indoors and running just the 12v line. This does need to be a thick cable due to the current involved but I have done this using 2 core 1.5mm rubber cable , though it is a good idea to raise the voltage to 13.8v , this allows for some voltage drop and the EQ6 is usually happier on the slightly raised voltage. a distribution box at the mount end can give multiple outputs and some of these can be regulated 12v ones (I use cheap Chinese prebuilt 12 regulator boards to drop the 13.8 down to a limited 12v output , available from a common auction site) There are plenty good quality "ham" radio 13.8v supplies ideal for this. I have 2 units both bought 2nd hand photos attached the Maplin one is still often available 2nd hand (on here or elsewhere) , the other is a premium 25amp supply but I got it as a good deal used. Both are linear supplies (not switchmode) , for long cable runs linear is preferred. (switchmode can generate rfi on long cables)
  4. fitted but its too wet to open roof and do video just now
  5. the OO dob bases have Teflon bearings on alt and az so easy to move with a hand on end of the tube. can even hand nudge from eyepiece stalk as they are so low friction. When I had my long 10 on the base it was certainly a tad unwieldy due to the OTA size ( OO CT10L ) , but with the smaller Newt 200p it is a doddle. It is the regular 1000mm tube not the Dob 1200 version. The bases are surprisingly light , far lighter than the heavy chipboard skywatcher bases , and of course waterproof , chipboard and damp don't go together well even if you do seal all cut edges , hours out in the damp often cause wet creep into the wood.
  6. Just checking the fit. I have an angled roof over the warm room that the ROR roof rolls over , you can see the roof track in the photo , the excellent Brundle gear. Of course when I fit it the strip will go right up to the edge (ie closer to the camera) , just held it along a bit to give a good view of how it will work. Those are PVC "fake" slates on the warm room roof , lightweight and so easy to use , cut to shape with a craft knife.
  7. Yes they are expensive items , but very high quality. I got mine second hand with my 10in scope , but moved my 10 onto an NEQ6pro that's my fixed observatory mount on an altair pier , not quite installed yet , am using it on the tripod until ROR observatory is finished , at painting the inside stage so almost here now. The OO dob bases do pop up now and then second hand.
  8. Skywatcher 200p on a converted OO 10ins Dob base Its my "portable" scope , sets up in seconds as just lifts out of the cradle. Fits easily on car back seat. The aluminium base is perfect for those damp nights and wet grass it doesn't get bothered by wetness
  9. I am almost finished my ROR shed and was looking for a good way to seal where the roof closes against the main structure. Brush door strips and the usual door seals were not up to the job, mainly because they were not that deep to make sure wind didn't blow rain back up under the edge. I did however find the perfect solution , it is garage door seals. Very soft 75mm deep rubber held in aluminium holder that screws to the trailing edge. Not fitted yet and I will add a video once it is but it neatly closes over the join. The rubber is continuous and the aluminium holder in 1 metre lengths that just match up together for whatever width you require. I got it from a well known auction site , search for IMPERIAL ALUMINIUM & RUBBER SEAL DRAUGHT EXCLUDER
  10. The box by Michael with its fused outputs is exactly the way to go. Indicators to monitor each output is a very useful addition as he has done. (I assume LED) I am making a box to use with my pier mount and will use LED to monitor each output , however LED at the usual current are very bright (nominal 20mA) It is worth using a far higher in line resistor to lower the LED current , trial and error will let you find what suits you , but I find even a few mA current is enough to make the LED show when looked at directly allowing you to confirm the fuse has not blown but will not cast a bright coloured glow around where you don't want it.
  11. Found you can get spiral ducting in diameters up to 500mm from a well known auction site , delivered.
  12. These look to be ideal , and with diameters ranging up to a full metre are exactly what I need. (Not that I need a metre diameter) I am probably going to use a stepped column starting at 450 at base then narrower as it rises
  13. I am moulding a smaller diameter part at the top to avoid scope collisions , its a high pier
  14. Yes I had considered ducting , might be looking for a wider diameter though, but that is available too as ducting I think , just need to look around a bit more for the larger diameter.
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