carastro

I have a feeling l saw someone selling one on here. Did you look through the for sale board?

Another one for Astronomiser.

It is good to share and discuss a hobby with like minded people. l agree with the comments above about a certain “other” forum where they are far too prickly, unhelpful and up their own backsides. Joined for a very short time and haven’t been back since. l like it on here because there are a lot of comedians and also a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable people. Made a lot of friends on here. Also because SGL is large you get a quick answer if you have a problem.

Welcome to SGL and welcome back to Astronomy

Get two scopes. One for planetary and galaxies and one for other DS objects. If you get a Newtonian not all are capable of reaching focus with a camera (primary needs to be moved up the scope to do so). The PDS versions have been adapted for imaging. Then if you want to use them for visual l believe you have to add a spacer to get focus. The most important for imaging is to get an equatorial mount capable of guiding and sturdy enough to take you scope. You need to halve the load for imaging to get accurate tracking.

Really lovely.

I know what you mean but as an Astrophotographer l think a smaller scope would give you a larger field of view when imaging nebulae. Some are pretty large and you’d get frustrated about only being able to get part of them. On the other hand a large scope is good for galaxies. So depends what you want to do. Maybe a SCT might be a compromise for you.

Absolutely fabulous.

A very nice result and you got the whole thing in.

Congratulations and well done every one.

If it is only £60 it is worth a punt. All l can say is i started with a similar scope and mount and whilst l got good views, finding things and keeping targets in the FOV was tricky.

I don’t know what the optics on that scope are like but the mount would be difficult to operate.

I didn’t understand that either. 25 hours each filter = 7.5 hours. ?!?! Must be a typo in there somewhere.

This was 6 hours and 20 mins from Bortle 6 using Baader ultranarrowband filters. Processed in photoshop.

You should see my first M31. Trailing galore. Not even sure l still have it.

Welcome to our”world”. Lol but did you manage to get a better view of the fuzzy thing? Oh whoops, just re-read your post. You meant find out what the Fuss is all about (not Fuzz). Lol lol

I also live in Bortle 8 and find doing Broadland almost impossible. I therefore would not bother with a coloured camera personally. l use a dual rig with two mono cameras. If you really want to run two rigs/4 cameras and 4 telescopes on two separate mounts. (Good luck aligning them to match), l would suggest 4 mono cameras (two on each rig). I normally run Ha on one camera and OS in the other. Do two nights and swap the run SHO/ha the second night capturing more Ha than O & S. if you want some RGB for stars you can mix then in as you don’t need a lot. l never bother to dither as l find two rigs and two nights gives a sort of natural dither anyway. carole

Really good. I planned to try that target some years ago but never managed it. Nice to see it in context too.

It was flats l mentioned as being important. To be honest there will always be problems using this type of mount but if that’s what you have and don’t plan to upgrade you will have to learn to do the best you can with it. With a Samyang lens l managed to acquire a very nice Bahtinov mask that works well with it. It wasn’t cheap about £40 if l recall with the postage and laser cut from a guy in America again if l recall. Just trying to remember his name. Will amend this post if l can find him. Found it: https://www.lonelyspeck.com/sharpstar-2-precision-bahtinov-focusing-mask-filter-for-astrophotography-by-lonely-speck/ There could of course now be someone in the uk making them that small as it was a few years ago. carole

Pretty good for a first attempt. Suggestions. I would consider using a Samyang 135mm lens rather than a small scope as l am not sure your mount is up to a telescope. The Samyang lens is vastly superior to the stock lens and will give a smaller FOV. Flats are imo the most important calibration frames to take so do try to learn to do these. Well done. Carole

Love it. Damn, now I shall have to go back and reprocess mine to make it better. Carole

Excellent result. Well Done.

For solar system imaging you could get away with alt Az. But a non tracking manual mount is going to present real problems of keeping the target in the FOV while you focus and take images.

If you take a video you can stack the frames in Registax or Autostakkert.

I don't use Siril, but the main thing is to register the two images so they will exactly fit when combined. I use Registar for this. Generally Ha is added into the red channel.