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M33- The Triangulum Galaxy Imaging telescope: Skywatcher Quatrro 10" Guiding Camera ZWO 120mm with ZWO OAG Mount: Skywatcher EQ6-R Pro L: 56*120s RGB: 80*120s software: PHD2, APT, PixInsight, Photoshop I would welcome every criticism, since this is my first DSO/ LRGB image Clear Skies,

The 72ED is Not bad choice at all. I’m actually considering a second telescope for wide field.

It almost everything now. I waited two months for the ZWO OAG and still waiting for the ultra narrowband Filter SII( I ordered it in April)

Yes, but needs some skill to balance it. Till now I couldn’t get over 900” subs, but i think the limitation comes from using a guiding scope, but anyway I’m waiting for the OAG to come and see if it get more. I’m Also using a 10” Newtonian, ASI 1600mm, automated Filter wheel , autofocuser, and of course a come corrector. i know a guy using a 12” Newtonian and getting such long shots. But he has the NEQ-6 , almost the same load capacity as the EQ6R. If you go for the 10” , you’ll need to buy additional 5kg counterweight, cause the two comes with the mount are not enough to balance it.

Same problem with me, I give it up anyway as I was getting poor results. I think the PS was out of axis.

Hi everyone, I’m still young in astronomy and I just leveled up and build a permanent pier, so I can save the time and the most important thing is also getting a high accurate polar alignment, so I can get longer exposures. Unfortunately I didn’t get the PA to a level over 3-4 mins. It was ok before cause I have a fast telescope and used lrgb with bortel 4 sky. But for narrowband not enough. I usually use sharp cap for polar alignment. I tried the also drift alignment in PHD2 but looked unstable to me as it always changed the direction after every exposure (I have been told to wait a 2 min at least to stake it) but I’m not sure if it’s good enough. could you guys guys help me with some advice and tips getting it better? Thanks alot

Thank you! i think I wasn’t patient enough to see the video till end. you saved my day! best regards

Hi Everyone, i upgraded my cam from DSLR to ASI 1600mm mono and i could make two imaging session the last two days. but unfortunately i accidentally moved my cam during the transport and i figured it out only today, the result is: my target Galaxy (M81) has diffrent positions in every imaging session, stacking every Channel resulted in diffrent angel for every channel. so any one could give me any trick of how i get them all in the same exact position so i can combine them in photoshop? and how to avoid such mistakes in future? i'm using APT for Imaging. Thank you.

Thanks, I will post it there

I calibrated it , but Maybe i rotated the camera while trying to reconnect the cam. I will try to calibrate again tonight, thanks a lot, I hope the problem would be so easy solved

hmm, you mean Darkframe library? or step calibrating?

Hi everyone, i'm trying to autoguide, but i'm always getting poor guiding graph. i did polar aligment with sharpcap, did it to Excellent, then i start guiding with PHD, which stops after while because it's ineffective. here is a Photo of the lines, i did this immediately after polar Alignement without moving the scope. Any ideas why this happening? balancing seems good to me.

Thank you, i will give it a try. best regards

Hi Every one, i'm just starting with my mono astrophotographie, today i tried to take Flats using my LCD Flat-Lamp. My cam is ASI 1600mm. i'm tried to get ADU arount 23k , but as i get close to it it showes horzontal lines , Exposure lenth about 0,01293sec. is it normal? Gain was 0 and Offset 50. i tried to find it out in Internet, but not body mention it. i would be happy for any suggetions. Thanks

Thank you Anne for reply: In which Teleskop did you used this filters? I’ll use it now with my 1000mm f4 Telescope, as I said, but in future I may upgrade to SC C11 or go for smaller focal length Teleskop. Could it be a problem using those filters then?

Hi everyone, I'm planning to upgrade to cooled mono (AS I 1600mm Pro) and I want to buy the motorised ZWO filter wheel and LRGBcHa OIII and SII 1,25 filters from Astronomik. Since I'm completely new to mono camera and narrowband filters world, I have a couple of questions and I hope if you could help me: If anyone has the same equipment as I have a fast Teleskop F4 and 1000mm focal length. Would I face any problems with vignetting with my telescope? I know 6nm can show more contrast and details than 12nm, should I take all the filters with the same wave length (6nm)? i have a bortel 4/5 skies. Best regards,

Hi, this is a really cheap Lenovo laptop with Windows 10 pro and You get a very good performance with it. it costed me 333€ , with 512 gb SSD /12gb RAM and 4 Thread CPU , it will be enough for imagining for next decade 😉 this Module is in German eBay, I’m sure you’ll find the same model in GB: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F184110599429 best regards,

Thanks Marcus for the help, that’sa Logic Explantation and I can argument with the seller. I have to check the warranty (I bought it less than year ago) . Best regards, Alan

Hi Marcus, Both question yes I tried, I even tried pointing the guiding telescope in my laptops monitor or lighting it with my phones flash to see if something change.. but nothing happens. the sharp cap keep counting down even if the planned exposure time over, like it goes down to -100 (in the Button Bar of sharp cap window) , and it says that 0 frames was taken. In PHD2 it disconnects after x seconds because the camera didn’t take any images. as I go back to my room , the camera doesn’t work as it is still cold, after some hours it works smooth and without any problems.

Hi James, I’m using 240mm guider Teleskop. the images are not coming, I tried by pointing it at my laptops monitor, but nothing happens. It’s very strange, I use the same equipments, the same USB ports and cables.

Hi everyone, I’m struggling with my guiding cam “ Touptek gcmos01200kmb Mono” . This cam works indoors just fine with ascom, I run it on PHD 2 and Sharpcap pro for testing, it work great. But as I go outside it stops working: PHD2 connect to it, start looping, but no image coming, same thing with sharpcap! I use the same cables/laptop and even the same power supply cables. As I return to my room the cam works again smoothly, the only thing which actually change is the temperature outdoor-1, indoor around 19. Does the low temperature cause such problems? I or do you have any idea why this happens? Best regards,

Thanks for Tips I see you have a c11. How it does with the EQ6-R? I'm considering buying a second hand.Could you give some buying tips , so I can check it before buying it. I'm not familiar with SC telescopes. Best regards,

Hehe , I should go harder with them

Yeah, I considered it, but I don’t see anyone else doing that.

Hi everyone, talking about counterweight: I noticed that my counterweight are slipping down most of times, no matter how much I tighten it. Any tricks or tips? Best regards,