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Peter Reader

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Posts posted by Peter Reader

  1. Staked with Super Pixel mode and first time using 2x drizzle to recover the lost image size.

    I didn't know about this feature of DSS and I'm not sure if this is ok to do....? I'm considering reprocessing my better images that currently exist at half size due to Super Pixel model... advice appreciated!

    71 x 3 min over 2 nights.

     

     

    California Nebula Jan 23 Super Pixel and 2x drizzle.png

    • Like 5
  2. Hi all,

    I've used NINA successfully for about 1 year. I recently updated toa newer version of NINA and now my mount hits horizon limits before the meridian flip can occur. I have changed no settings.

    Run log attached. Please can anyone help me out? This has ruined 2 nights of imaging already. There is this warning that appearswhen I start NINA which may be the problem? If so, how can I update the ASCOM Platform version please?

    Thanks in advance, Pete

    image.png.00c4c89551c448fc9ad7ea0214e049ab.png

    20230117-194411-2.1.0.9001.8328.log

  3. On 15/08/2022 at 14:07, Richbandit said:

    Hi Andy,

    Yes, I initially looked at the powerline option as well, and I wonder if a variation to your solution might work for me .... I can place a powerline adapter right next to the mini-pc (it's in a 'distribution box' I made which I place near mount, spare mains sockets available in that) and connect the mini-pc directly to it with ethernet cable, so no need for wi-fi.  The mains supply to this distribution box is taken from a socket in nearby laundry room, which is on the same mains circuit as house.  Then, another powerline adaptor near my laptop and job done, also using ethernet connection and remote desktop.

    That should theoretically work away from home as well, as long I ensure both adaptors are 'linked' by the same power circuit!

    Only thing is, I use Voyager (moved from SGP over a year ago and not regretted it!) at home, and I tend to select and frame a target using its excellent 'web dashboard' which has a brilliant 'virtual field of view' feature.  To do this, it requires an internet connection to download the respective object data, image, etc. and I'd lose that option if I employed my suggestion - although I guess I could switch over to the mini-pc's wi-fi for that purpose, as per Peter's method.  Irrelevant away from home, as no internet anyway so I'd have to pre-plan target info. -  suppose I could alternatively use planetarium (Stellarium, Cartes Du Ciel, etc.) instead to get info in this instance?

    All food for thought!

    Since I discovered plate solving soon after this build, I now routinely connect the mini PC to home Wi-Fi router to download reference images for framing. The mini router is now a backup for RDP in case for whatever reason the home network is down.

  4. On 13/08/2022 at 15:21, Richbandit said:

    Hi Peter,

    Just stumbled across your post ....

    Out of interest, what sort of range are you finding with this little TP-Link unit?

    In a similar way to you I have an mini-PC near the 'scope and currently relying on my home internet router (Talk Talk supplied) as the wi-fi link between my laptop indoors and mini-pc outside.  As far as I know the Talk Talk router is reputed to be a fairly good one, but I still experience annoying 'drop outs' from time to time.

    So, I'm looking for any alternative solutions ..... the attractiveness of something like this is that it could still be used away from home if needed.

    Thanks!

    I haven't done a range test but I can tell you with "line of sight" between the mini router on scope and my laptop I get 10m through glass with no problems. When line of sight is obscured by the OTA it can drop out sometimes.

  5. 10 hours ago, Budgie1 said:

    I think there's more data in there than you think there is. ;)

    I had a play with it in Pixinsight and came up with what you see below. There was some gradient in the bottom left corner which I had to remove but you have captured some of the dark dust around the Iris. Did you use flats to calibrate it, as there were also some light & dark circles on the image which looked like dust on the camera sensor, the darkest one was right in the centre of the image? I did managed to remove these with the CloneStamp tool in PI.

    More data may well bring out detail in the centre of the Iris but I hope you like my rendition. :D

    Iris.png.15043b6d8c91193994d919f8b71a1730.png

     

    Oh my goodness... I would be very grateful if you could share how you did this! PM me?

    The image was calibrated with bias, flats and dark flats yes.

    • Like 1
  6. 7 hours ago, wimvb said:

    A very nice setup, and a very nice image.

    It's hard to see on my tablet, but I guess it's "ordinary" canon banding, ie the read pattern of the sensor. PixInsight has a acript to remove it. With a relatively slow scope and a light pollution filter, you don't have that much light reaching the sensor, and you may need to increase the exposure time in order to drown the read pattern of your camera.

    3.5 hours isn't much and you definitely need more data to pull out the dust. Afterall, it's dark dust on a dark background. As long as the contrast in the dust is competing with the contrast in the banding, you're fighting an uphill battle.

    Thanks for the info. I'm considering removing the light pollution filter, although I am Bortle 5 here with many street lamps...

    I have never tried going beyond 3 minute exposures but I suppose this makes sense - how long would you suggest? can I stack different exposure lengths together in DSS?

    Cheers

  7. I think I've managed to improve the back-spacing of the field flattener for the Zenithstar 73 and also tightened up the rotator to avoid any sag/tilt. 

    72 x 3 min lights plus flats, dark flats and bias

    Do I need more data on this to pull out the dust?

    Is the horizontal banding due to my non-cooled camera?

    Many thanks

    Iris Nebula 01 Jun 22.png

     

    20220601_220446.jpg

    • Like 3
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