AstroTim

For some time now I’ve been thinking of adding an external focuser to my C8. It will primarily be for visual use with possibly a binoviewer + a couple of zoom eyepieces, and / or 2” diagonal attached. The main motivation is for better fine focus control although being able to focus for different combinations of diagonal and eyepiece without changing the focal length might also be a minor benefit. I had been planning to get the Revelation Superfocus 2-inch SCT Rack n Pinion Focuser. However, they appear to have increased in price significantly since I last looked, and are now around the same price as a Baader Diamond Steeltrack SC Focuser. Is there any reason not to go for the Steeltrack? While I prefer the idea a R&P over a Crayford (less reports of focuser slip and I like the positive feel from a rack and pinion) the Steeltrack approach seems to largely eliminate the slip and I haven’t seen a single bad review. I might want to add a focuser motor at some point in the future. A Moonlite is out of budget, and while a Feathertouch Microfocuser is a more expensive but desirable option, I don’t think they are as easy to move from one SCT to another if I change scopes in the future. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated. Regards, Tim

I didn’t manage to see the rille tonight either. I was using an 8” SCT, although I was having to view between the gaps of some high branches. It did seem as though there was a noticeable drop in contrast whenever even a couple of small branches entered into the FOV. Thanks for the heads up though as it has given me something to look out for on future nights, as I often stop for a brief look at the Alpine Valley area when viewing the moon.

I’ve been able to clearly see the quadrangle tonight. I haven’t yet managed to see the nearby kite shape feature that was also visible last time around.

I only used a cloth for the final polish, once all the dirt was off. I used plain Kleenex tissues for applying the fluid. The Baader fluid feels a little sticky when wet so initially I dab the surface rather than wipe in order to pick any dirt straight off the lens. I then use a fresh Kleenex with some more fluid to clean it normally. I use the blower between each stage.

I bought a bottle of Zeiss Lens Cleaning Spray (sold and fulfilled by Amazon so shouldn’t be fake), which states it’s suitable for all optical surfaces, including cameras. However, I have found that it leaves a streaky residue on the binoculars and eyepieces I’ve used it on. In some cases I then had to use another product to remove the streaks. Not sure if it’s due to coated lenses. Works great on spectacles, phone screens etc, without any residue. Maybe the wipes are a different formula. I’ve just bought some Baader Optical fluid and while that leaves some very faint residue marks, these can easily be wiped off with a cloth following a light breath over the surface, if you feel it’s necessary. I’ve only used it on a handful of eyepieces so far but it does seem to do the job, and you only need to use a small amount of the fluid each time, so I’m likely to stick with that for now. I have also used lens brushes to lightly flick off any stubborn bits, that won’t blow off, before using the fluid. However, you need to be careful the bristles don’t get contaminated over time as they can then leave streaks themselves.

So, possibly not where the X was on the map, but the feature next to it. Fortunately I did spend quite some time looking at that area too 🙂

@Stu your second image shows what I thought was Barkers Quadrangle with a prominent line leading from it. I think that matches the kite shape that @mikeDnight mentions also. Tim

Thanks @paulastro. I’ve enjoyed looking for the unusual features you have highlighted over the last couple of nights. It’s got me out observing on at least one night I wouldn’t have otherwise tried, and I’ve seen some new features that I probably wouldn’t have ever known about otherwise. Also thanks to everyone else who has chipped in with maps, diagrams, and other noteworthy features nearby. Tim

Just posting a short review of my recent experience dealing with Altair Astro. Ian at Altair Astro was very prompt and helpful in responding to my initial questions. Some of the responses being sent late in the evening. He was also very quick to resolve an issue resulting from some damage caused in transit. I would definitely deal with them again. Tim

7 months on from the OP and I’m wondering if there have been any signs of reduced quality in recent batches of equipment? From what I’ve observed on this forum, it seems as though the manufacturers have managed to maintain quality controls, despite the high demand, as I haven’t noticed an increase in issues being reported, but would be interested in what other people think.

By finder screw, I was meaning the screw that you used to mount the bracket. I was assuming that you used one of the mounting points and screws that are typically used hold a finder bracket, or mounting plate in place.

Glad you managed to get it cleaned back up, but where did the filed aluminium come from and how did it actually get inside the tube? If you didn’t need to drill any new holes then I assume it got in through the finder screw hole somehow. Were there filings in the bracket hole that got pushed inside when putting the screw back in?

I think it’s also called the golden handle.

Glad you have managed first light and are enjoying your scope.

I found these instructions useful when collimating mine http://www.starrynights.us/Articles/Collimation.htm http://www.astrophoto.fr/collim.html

Not sure this is the thread I was thinking of, but it does sound like a similar issue and there are some photos of the holder and adjustment mechanism, as well as how it can buckle. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/465107-c8-collimation-at-limits/ I’m not suggesting you have a problem with yours, it might just be a case of loosening one of the others to allow you to tighten the one you need. Just be mindful that the screws are the only thing holding the secondary on, so only loosen one at a time and make sure you haven’t unscrewed it fully.

When you say it doesn’t turn smoothly, is that just when tightening, or also when loosening? The secondary pivots around a central pivot point. If you overtighten the screws it is possible to buckle the pivot as it’s plastic. I have seen a thread with some pictures so will try and track it down. When I collimate my SCT, if the screw I need to tighten is already tight, I loosen the opposite screws slightly so that I can tighten the one I need to. I then nip them all back up tight after. I have read some instructions that say you should only ever tighten the screws but can’t see how that could work and eventually something will break.

@SpileI think that what you are suggesting would still fit within the StarGazine format and platform. Some of the ones I’ve seen have been more interactive during both the presentation and Q&A session. It’s just down to how you manage the session. When there is more of a presentation style session happening then you need to make it more formal to stop frequent interruptions, but the same tools could be used in a more open and interactive way and even with different compères. I don’t necessarily see a need to spawn a new series of programmes on a different platform, unless of course you are looking to set up your own channel as a new personal venture (with possible monetisation of it) in which case that would be understandable. Maybe discuss what you have in mind with the StarGazine organisers and see what might be possible.

There are regular StarGazine presentations, if that’s the sort of thing you were thinking off https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/295-stargazine/

Congratulations on your new purchase, it looks to be a great scope. I am going through the same sort of dilemmas regarding my next scope. I’ll be interested in how you get on as this is one of the ones I am considering (final budget permitting).

I have wondered whether the TS and Altair Astro scopes are the same, or whether there is a subtle difference. The TS Optics Photoline 102ED is listed as having an ED FPL-53 and Lanthanum doublet objective, whereas the Altair Astro Starwave 102 ED-R states FPL-53 but doesn’t mention Lanthanum in the mating element. Does anyone know whether the Altair Astro is using Lanthanum or not? The Tecnosky 102ED doesn’t mention Lanthanum either. Just to remove any possible confusion, the TS scope you link to in your original post (TS 102mm f/7 ED APO Refractor) is not the same as the TS Optics Photoline 102ED or the Altair Astro Starwave 102 ED-R mentioned later in the thread. The TS scope in the original post does not use FPL-53 glass (probably FPL-51) which is why it is cheaper. Just wanted to make sure you are all talking about the same TS scope when comparing with other makes.

Quite an ordeal. Here’s hoping you get some clear skies and great views once it arrives.

Depending upon which barlow you have, you might be able to unscrew the lens and swap in the filter. That way you wouldn’t get the magnification, but would still get an increase in light path due to the barlow housing.

If you are still considering the Skymax 127 then it might be worth looking at the Bresser MC-127. As I understand it from other posts on here, the Bresser provides a true 127mm aperture whereas the Skymax is undersized. If you do a search you should find several threads discussing it. Tim.

I don’t think they will have cut costs on the OTA itself and would expect that to be the same as any other C5. The Kellner eyepieces would probably perform as well as a Plossl in that scope (I have a 15mm Kellner and I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference). I used just the RDF on mine and it was fine for targeting visible objects (bright stars, planets). A finderscope would help for star hopping to fainter objects, but if you are accurate with the initial star alignment, the goto will hopefully get the objects within the field of view. i can’t comment on how the mount and tripod would perform. The scope is quite light so doesn’t need a heavyweight mount. I have a WiFi option on my mount and thought at the time I’d only use it in that mode. As it happens, I have only ever used it via the handset! There were connectivity issues with the early WiFi implementation and the app only supported star alignment. I tend to observe the planets so it’s easier to point the scope at a planet and do a quick solar system alignment for tracking. You lose alignment accuracy for gotos, but it’s good enough to jump between planets. If I was observing DSO’s more, I would do a 3 star alignment and the app would be an easier way to choose suitable targets. The C5 is a nice portable scope and I’ve had some very good views through mine. The only reason I’m selling it is that I have no need for the mount and tripod, and thought it would sell better as a full setup.