Space Oddities

Something I've wanted to try for a long time, since I looked into a solar telescope during a star party I couldn't find any in EU shops, but @FLO had a few in stocks and cheaper than EU prices, after adding VAT and various customs fees. Purchased on Monday, arrived on Tuesday... Thanks FLO! Funny enough, the box didn't contain clouds, but sunlight. Which is pretty amazing since we've had so much clouds and rain these pas couple months... I feel I haven't seen sunlight for a while now. Perfect timing, so I had a chance to test the Quark this morning at sunrise. I didn't even have to go outside, since my windows are facing east. I repurposed my old 72mm doublet refractor specifically for solar viewing (figured a Quark is cheaper than a 72mm solar telescope, and more versatile), and the view was really nice! I used the Baader 8-24 zoom, the whole disk barely fits at 24mm. I could see some nice protuberances and a couple sun spots. I tried a photo of those protuberances with my phone, it's quite ugly, but a good souvenir of my Quark's first light! I'll try my 120mm StraTravel another day, to have a better look at those protuberances. And of course, try out some solar imaging at some point, with the handy T2 adapter, also courtesy of FLO Now, all I need are some binoviewers...

Thank you everyone for the kind comments! Well I have used 2 tutorials so far. The first one that gave me very good results on my narrowband data is this one : Creating a Mosaic image in 3 simple steps: PixInsight Mosaic Tutorial - YouTube Here are 2x1 mosaics I made some time ago using Russell's great tutorial, as you can see it works seemlessly! : For some reason though, the settings used by Russell gave me good result with my narrowband images, but it didn't work well with this particular photo of Andromeda. I'm not sure why, but the result wasn't as seemless and smooth. Then I found this other tutorial which uses the same tools but different settings, and the result was much better : EASY MOSAICS -- Part Two: Pixinsight Processing MADE EASY - YouTube Perhaps one difference is that it was broadband OSC imaging on one side, and narrowband, black and white on the other side? Gradients are also different in both pictures, I'd need to play with the settings and see what's the best fit for each purpose. Thanks Jon! I actually thought the same and should have done the 2 panels on the same night. That's a good lesson for next time I actually had issues while using my OAG and that seemed to vanished with the classic 50mm guide scope. I hope this is user error and not my mount experiencing a hardware issue... As you can see, the RA went nuts periodically and I could see the guide star drifting slowly. The mount would then try to counteract that movement. I tried other guide settings but it didn't really help. Usually the guiding is consistently below 0.5", so I'm not sure what caused this.

2x1 Mosaic, ~75x180s for each panel, gain of 100 and -10°C. Askar 80PHQ, ZWO ASI2600MC Pro, Rainbow Astro RST-133, ZWO ASIAIR Plus. Processed with PixInsight This is a mosaic of the Andromeda Galaxy, with data captured over 2 consecutive nights early October. A project I've had in mind for a long time! It was a challenging one: My mount experienced guiding errors, mostly the first night. The RA axis seemed to go nuts periodically and I had to throw away about 25% of the subs. I switched back from the OAG to a 50mm guide scope, and the problem seemed to go away for some reason... Strong gradients from Nantes' light pollition, as well as the last quarter of the Moon Colors and gradients for the 2 panels were slightly different, which makes creatig a mosaic more difficult. After a few attempts though, and with the help of some tutorials, I managed to find the right settings Blowing up the core of the galaxy while stretching is easy. I tried a new approach for stretching: 1) a slight stretch with ArcSinhStretch, 2) a Generalized Hyperbolic Stretch and 3) a few adjustments via curves & histogram. Lots of trial and error but overall the core doesn't seem too blown out! I finally switched from DeepSkyStacker to PixInsight for calibration and stacking. PI is so much slower... but the resulting image seemed easier to process, especially gradients, presumably due to the local normalization I'm still learning PixInsight, so every processing is a challenge! However I did learn a few helpful tricks, and I hope to remember them for my next processing. But as always, despite the frustration and the hours spent working on this photo, I am very pleased with how it turned out! Definitely my best astrophoto so far. Another reason why I love Andromeda, is because it was the first target I photographed when I started AP in 2017. I'll never forget the joy I felt seeing for the first time a galaxy on my camera's screen! It is always fun to measure the progress I've made over the years, and it definitely motivates me to keep on learning! Critics more than welcome! Clear skies!

Superb! Editing is the most difficult part IMO, especially with Pixinsight, which is not very user friendly. But what a wonderful piece of software once you figured it out. You'll get there eventually! The cool thing is that you can always add more data later, and reprocess past images with new techniques you learnt. You're at the start of your journey, and honestly, I wish my first attempts were as good as yours! What exposure and gain settings are you using?

I had the same concern but it's actually solid enough to carry my camera. I haven't been bothered by tilt nor measured it, so I can't really say, but it seems quite flat and self centers itself due to its shape. A bit pricey sadly though!

I also have this T2-T2 rotator here, it's only 5.5mm thick. I don't think there is a thinner one out there! It's stronger than it looks and works fine. If you can squeeze it between your FW and camera, you might have enough back focus distance left. The only drawback is that the screws might be located in an awkward position you can't reach due to the EFW. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p5547_TS-Optics-T2-360--Rotation-und-Schnellkupplung---nur-5-5-mm-kurz.html ok I just tested and the screws are easily accessible with an EFW mounted. That makes up for 34mm with the EFW and camera.

You're in for a treat! Enjoy your new equipment The ASIAIR is a great platform for beginners and people who - like me - want something easy to use and frustration-free. This and a goto mount forever changed the way I do astrophotography, I hope you'll enjoy it as much as I did!

@aleixandrus I'm using this rotator from TS Optics: Teleskop-Express: TS-Optics Rotation Adapter, Filter Holder and Quick Coupling - M48 to T2 thread It's available in different formats for both the camera and telescope side: M48, T2, M42x1, Canon... depending on what you need. The good thing about it is that it can be used as a 2" filter holder as well (the part attached to the camera has 2" threads on one side), which is great considering the rather short flange distance of the Samyang. My adapter itself is 19mm thick, so that's too thick to add a filter slider as well. I found the thumb screws too short and impractical, so I got some longer one.

Possibly, but there's no adapter on the market from the Fuji X-mount to the standard T2. I've been looking for one for years! Fuji isn't as popular as Canon, Nikon and Sony, so manufacturers probably don't see the point in making one. And you'd need to both nail the focus and have a very precisely made adapter, so that the focus doesn't change... And if you want to use a filter in between, you're screwed As you said, it's a lot of trouble! It's such a pity, Fuji cameras are such a joy to use in daylight, and their lenses are optically excellent. I've been using them since about 10 years, from the original X100, and it really changed the way I do photography. These cameras have something special, and the colors they produce are simply. Too bad the software side and astronomy software support is so bad... What we would need is this! It would be perfect! https://www.astromechanics.org/index.html

Simon, If I were to do it again now, I'd get the Astrodymium. It seems solid and well thought out indeed. i tried the Astrokraken one, but it actually didn't fit my camera, and didn't feel very solid. I went the BlackCat mount way, which was originally intended to work with the RedCat 51 telescope (which I also own - although mine has a rare white fur for some reason!). The advantage was that I could switch that mount from the Cat to the Sam rather easily. The downside of this solution is the 3D printed gear that wraps around the lens. You need a custom made one, since the RedCat has a slightly different close though). Also, the toothed gear attached to the EAF eventually cracked and I haven't been able to use it since. Finally, although the RedCat's rube ring is a good fit, it's not perfectly snug. I can feel the lens very slightly moving. So I switched to a belt system which is much better IMO (another advantage for the Astrodymium). I found a free model of a GT2 ring, an aluminium pulley and then found a perfectly sized GT2 belt. Works like a charm! I'll do the same on my RedCat I think. At the end of the day, this cost me more than the Astrodymium solution, which didn't exist at the time, sadly... So I guess that's the best option on the market right now! Anyway, I'm glad my Samyang is fully operational again, can't wait to have a go at those big nebulae again! à

That wouldn't work unfortunately, because Fuji lenses are focused electronically. Rotating the focus ring doesn't move the lenses, unless a Fujifilm camera is connected and turned on... Some third party, manual focus lenses would work (I have the Fuji version of the Samyang 135mm; it's 100% manual) but the back focus distance of Fuji lenses is probably different from that of M4/3 cameras. And it's a different mount too, so a nightmare to adapt... I think one way to solve your problem is to mount the guide scope with rings, rather that the little dovetail/foot. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/SVBONY-Guiding-Telescope-Diameter-astrophotography/dp/B07QZ2T1N2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=37H04TTFVEFT3&keywords=Guide+scope+rings&qid=1694459643&sprefix=guide+scope+ring%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-2 This way you can precisely align both your guide and main camera to the same point (do it by day using a distant tree or something). You'll get more precise go-to and plate solving for just a few bucks

Yes, sadly Fujifilm hasn't made their cameras controllable via third party software... unlike Canon & such. But I heard that this is slowly changing, so perhaps in a near future... You need to make sure that dithering is disabled, in the autoguiding settings of your ASIAIR. Usually dithering is useful to get rid of walking noise patterns, but since there is no way for the ASIAIR to tell the camera to stop shooting while dithering, that you end up with a waster 5 minute sub, because your stars look like dashes. Have fun with your autoguiding it opens up a whole new world!

You can mount it using a camera "cage" or L-bracket, which you might already own. The guider would be attached to the bracket or cage directly, on the top or on the side. You can also add an Arca Swiss dovetail and plate to make mounting/unmounting the guide scope easier. Many people go this way! Some examples here: https://blog.martinbelan.com/2020/08/14/how-to-mount-a-guide-scope-to-your-dslr-mirrorless-camera-without-a-telescope/ Another way would be to DIY something. You'd need a dovetail bar, long enough to mount your lens and guide scope side by side (~20 cm should suffice), and 2 clamps: 1 Arca-Swiss compatible for your lens and 1 for the guide scope. Plus a few screws (usually 1/4"). Like this for instance : This would cost a bit more than option 1, but they're the kind of accessories you'll always need and that you can repurpose in the future. Plus you can balance it more precisely than option 1. You might even be able to attach an ASIAIR Plus in the middle, either flat or on the side, which would simplify your cable management.

Hello! Lots of good advice above! I agree with the main points: stick with what you have first; light pollution filters aren't worth it; don't use OIS or IBIS; stay at medium focal lengths for now, unless you're autoguiding. Fuji cameras aren't very astro friendly, sadly: not many acquisition software support them natively, same with processing software (at least back in the day when I was using my Fuji camera, today it might be different?) In the topic you linked, I used an ASIAIR to polar align and control the mount, autoguide and plate solve using the guide camera. For image acquisition I simply used the built in intervalometer in my Fuji camera. This worked fine, but lost a few subs because of dithering (the X-T3 doesn't know the mount is doing it). Honestly, the next thing you might want to buy, IMO, would be a guide scope/camera. With a laptop, Raspberry Pi or ASIAIR, you'd be able to use it to polar align the mount precisely, auto guide (which means longer subs, better signzl to noise ration, more keepers) and plate solve (3 star alignment not needed anymore!). That would also unlock the possibility to image emission nebulae with a dual narrowband filter for instance. However, keep in mind that it seriously complexifies your setup, since you need to bring a computer, learn a new software, etc. The company STC manufactures clip in duo narrowband filters for Fuji cameras, so you'd be able to place it between the lens and the sensor. They're only compatible with Fuji cameras though, so if you upgrade to a dedicated astro cam mater, you son't be able to use them. You should also invest in a Bahtinov mask, it really helps with focusing and they're cheap. Lots of 3D printed options out there! Andromeda, Orion nebula, the Pleiades are great targets to start with. They're bright, big, easy to find and don't require any filter. NGC7000 is also nice but you'll need good skies. And of course the Moon, the Sun (with a proper solar filter!), and any comet that might visit us. I took the following pictures when I started astrophotography. I was using an X-T1 at the time, together with a SkyGuider Pro. Very simple setup. Certainly not APOD material, but you gotta start somewhere. And each of them taught me a valuable lesson (Andromeda taught me I should get a Bahtinov mask ) If I can give you 1 last advice: one step at a time You'll face frustration every now and then, even with the most advanced setup. Learn from your mistakes, and don't forget to enjoy the sky with your eyes too.

I love mine great for little objects at medium focal lengths Tomorrow I'll try to use it for planetary work, and get a pic of Saturn before it flies too far away!

Pro tip: you can attach a cloth peg to the focuser. It makes some kind of lever, which really helps when focusing

The AZ-GTi is a fun little mount, you'll love it Once you get to know the phone app, how it works and how to get a good alignment, it becomes an awesome grab and go mount! It's also very evolutive, if you want to do EAA or even deep sky imaging. Mine has been tuned to the extreme... I'm still using it as a 2nd rig, since it's been replaced by a beefier mount. The day (or rather, the night) I paired the AZ-GTi with an ASIAIR computer from ZWO, I entered a whole new world and it allowed me to image the DSOs I dreamt to image. If you can get your hands on an ASIAIR, whatever version, you'll have a terrific platform for EAA, visual astronomy, planet, lunar, solar and DSO astrophotography All of which fits in a backpack! The AZ-GTi does have its quirks, but once you get around them, it just becomes a Swiss knife that you can take with you anywhere.

Yes I confirm a 120ST would probably be too much for the little AZ-GTi mount, but I read that people were using the 102 with it It would make a good grab and go setup as well! Love it too! I have 3 of these actually, they are engravings from Jules Verne books that I found on Etsy. I happen to live in Jule Verne's hometown, in a boulevard that bears its name, so I thought it was à propos. Always loved his books as a kid! I wish I lived in one of the streets nearby though, I mean, how cool would it be to have as your address "123, Captain Nemo street" Here's the shop I got it from, they make very good quality prints (my picture doesn't do justice to them): https://www.etsy.com/fr/shop/AtelierGaronne

The postman delivered a few packages in the last couple weeks! A very nice looking Sky-Watcher Startravel 120, together with a GSO Focuser (I have to admit the stock focuser went straight back to the box) and an ES 82° 30mm eyepiece. This will make a nice grab and go scope! I also got a handle and a matching dovetail bar, both from the brand Bresser, which makes the scope easier to carry. I also replaced some parts, like the tube rings' knobs, I find them really hard to fasten properly. The focuser is great, but the rotating functionality wasn't very smooth. Turns out, the 3 set screws are either too lose or too tight... I couldn't find the right balance and was afraid the whole thing would wobble, so I removed the set screws and used some thumb screws I had lying around. That's 4 screws to turn if I want to rotate the focuser, but at least it's secure and doesn't require any tool. Finally I salvaged a couple finder shoes and attached them on the handle and the focuser, to fit a finder, ASIAIR or phone holder. I also need to figure out how go fit my Telrad in here... Maybe some 3D printer support? Time will tell! Anyways... I had first light a few days ago, between clouds, and could observe Andromeda and a explore the Cygnus region, before clouds came back. The scope is very nice and I couldn't see any chromatic aberration so far. Once the Moon is back and the clouds are gone, I'm going to give this a try to see how bad CA is, and see if my filters can improve the view somehow.

Hello! I thought I'd start a topic to share our experience with the Askar 80PHQ (which is the same as the one released by ZWO recently), in case someone is considering getting one I haven't seen many people using this telescope so far, so hopefully this will be useful. I've had mine for a few months now, and I'm very happy so far. The image quality it provides is excellent (at least to my eyes!), with tight, round star to the edges. So is the build quality, with a beefy focuser and modern accessories. I like the fact you can add a reducer to bring it from 600mm to 450mm, and thus a faster f-ratio. That makes 2 scopes in 1, and can prove useful for those big nebulae. I haven't purchased it yet, but if anyone has experience with the reducer, I'd be happy to hear some feedback! Here is a picture I took last night with it, using my ASI2600MC camera (APS-C). It is just 30x10min subs, uncalibrated, and is very slightly cropped to get rid of dithering artefacts: The field appears to be very flat indeed: An older picture of M13, still with he APS-C camera and minimal processing: The corners of a single raw file : Anyone else using this telescope?

Hi Richard, I do! Overall it can be used on the Samyang, but not the the geared ring. The one that comes with the black cat mount doesn't fit properly the Samyang. The diameter of the lens differs from that of the RedCat, although very close. To overcome this, the creator of the Black Cat Mount sent me another ring with a different diameter. It worked fine! However that was more a prototype/test. Also, I am not using it anymore because I ran into some problems. I'm actually not a huge fan of this gear mechanism, and I am in the process of switching to a pulley/belt system. I 3D printed this adapter for the Samyang, and will use a GT2 pulley and timing belt on the Samyang. Hopefully this will solve the problem I had (focuser getting stuck). I would advise you to do the same, and find a GT2 pulley and belt of the right size. I think it's much better! For the adapter, I ordered a print and it cost me about 15€. The Pulley and belt are a few € more, so overall, quite a cheap DIY if you already own the Black Cat mount! Hope that helps

I found the link on Astrobin, but can't remember where. I saved the STL file though, maybe that will help! I printed it in PLA Pro, 80% fill, 0.1mm resolution. I don't know anything about 3D printing but that seemed fine! 6485c7fcc370e_9cb257b709c87bd2122436b5c6f0058c.stl

Just received this nice 3D printed toothed ring for the Samyang. I had some issue with the toothed gear and ring that came with my BlackCat mount, but then I found this aring on Thingiverse. Cost me 16€ to get it printed, I think the quality is just great. I'll have to add a belt, but hopefully I'll have autofocusing again soon for my next project The added bonus is that I can add the lens hood backwards, the ring is slim enough for this! I couldn't before, so, that's neat for travel and storage! Here it was before:

Oh thank you, I didn't even know it existed! I guess it will be more visible in OIII, hopefully!

Hello Nebula season is almost there! Since the Moon was up and Cygnus is starting to be higher in the sky, I thought I'd photograph the Sadr area and do a mosaic to include the Crescent nebula, which I have never imaged before. This will be an SHO image. I started this project a couple nights ago and did a first panel of Ha. Last night, I did the second panel. I quickly processed both panels at the same time and stitched them in PixInsight. I'm still blown away by the result of the stitching, I have no idea how it works but it's just so powerful, you can't even see the "stitches"! Anyway, thought I'd share a preview of what it will look like That's 4+6 hours of data so far, taken with my William Optics WhiteCat 51, ZWO ASI1600MM-Pro, Astrodon 3nm Ha and mounted on a RainbowAstro RST-135. Can't wait to produce an SHO image! Although the OIII and SII will certainly be less glorious than the Ha, but I guess I'm used to it now Clear skies!