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Anthony RS

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About Anthony RS

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    Star Forming
  1. I understand that but my worries is star bloating since the CLS-CCD is also a UV/IR Cut filter. My camera still has LPF#1 but I'm not sure it's enough.
  2. is you DSLR modded without removing LPF#1 filter? If yes, are you seeing some star bloat? Thanks
  3. Hello, I've modified my Canon 500D (t1i) following Garry Honis' video; however, I did not replace the IR cut filter with a clear glass filter. I just removed the IR filter and put back together all the other filters. I'm using a Newt. with the Skywatcher Aplanatic coma corrector. Here's my issue, I already have the Astronomik CLS-CCD filter which is a light pollution filter as well as an IR blocking filter but I will be shooting M81/82 in bortle 4 skies this weekend so I'm not sure if using the CLS-CCD is a good idea. First, I'm in relatively dark skies with low light pollution, second, I'm shooting a galaxy, which as far as I know, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the CLS-CCD will do more harm then good blocking probably some of the details or requiring much longer exposures to get the same details as without the filter. I could remove the filter since i'm not worried about light pollution, but would that cause bloated stars since I'm using a coma corrector? or are the remaining filters in the DSLR enough to block IR? If removing the CLS-CCD does mean I'm going to get bloated stars, the question is can I remove the filter to get as much detail as possible from the galaxies and deal with the stars in processing, or is keeping the filter not that detrimental to galaxies? Appreciate any insights and opinions especially if you have any experience with this. Cheers, Anthony
  4. Hello, I've modified my Canon 500D (t1i) following Garry Honis' video; however, I did not replace the IR cut filter with a clear glass filter. I just removed the IR filter and put back together all the other filters. I'm using a Newt. with the Skywatcher Aplanatic coma corrector. Here's my issue, I already have the Astronomik CLS-CCD filter which is a light pollution filter as well as an IR blocking filter but I will be shooting M81/82 in bortle 4 skies this weekend so I'm not sure if using the CLS-CCD is a good idea. First, I'm in relatively dark skies with low light pollution, second, I'm shooting a galaxy, which as far as I know, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the CLS-CCD will do more harm then good blocking probably some of the details or requiring much longer exposures to get the same details as without the filter. I could remove the filter since i'm not worried about light pollution, but would that cause bloated stars since I'm using a coma corrector? or are the remaining filters in the DSLR enough to block IR? If removing the CLS-CCD does mean I'm going to get bloated stars, the question is can I remove the filter to get as much detail as possible from the galaxies and deal with the stars in processing, or is keeping the filter not that detrimental to galaxies? Appreciate any insights and opinions especially if you have any experience with this. Cheers, Anthony
  5. I did use a very small amount of grease after I cleaned since that's what others usually do when hypertuning their mounts. Wouldn't using more grease make the mount sticky and sluggish again?
  6. That makes a lot of sense actually. I'm not sure if the worm and gear are perfectly aligned although I did use the same spacers that were before. So I guess there's nothing I could do except wait till I can upgrade to a better mount.
  7. Thank you William for your great explanation. Unfortunately, I live in Beirut, Lebanon so I have no one to go to. I've hypertuned the mount myself and so I'm checking if everything is as it should. I think the grub screws are tight enough but I'll double check. As for the worm-Ra gear mesh, this is where it's getting tricky with me. I seem to have a lot of backlash in the RA axis which shows as slop and free play. No matter how much I reduce the spacing (till the motor binds) the slop is always there, I've also tightened the worm's locking ring but the free play is still there. I was wondering if you know what could be the cause of that. According to Ed from DSP, free play is unavoidable since before hypertuning, grease was masking this slop, but after cleaning and re-greasing, there's no way I could fully get rid of this slop. I'm worried now that I might have the worm-gear mesh a bit too tight to avoid even more free play but I don't know if loosening it a bit more would cause my tracking to get worse. I've got good tracking results during my last test but I don't want to cause any damage to the worm and gears ?
  8. Hello, Here are a couple of videos for the gears of my AVX. In this first video, https://www.dropbox.com/s/btv9q9k8pkv3k1p/VID_20190319_155428.mp4?dl=0, do you think the gears are too close and tight together or is it fine? In this second video, https://www.dropbox.com/s/qj3dygvrc0s17zc/VID_20190319_160042.mp4?dl=0, is that kind of worm gear backlash normal or is it too much? In this third video, https://www.dropbox.com/s/sd9dlx5d5qxa4ed/VID_20190319_165746.mp4?dl=0 , is that sound normal? It sounds like it's slowing down then speeding up? Cheers! Anthony
  9. I also used PHDlogviewer to check the "drift corrected" graph and here it is. Any ideas?
  10. Oh ok got what you mean! The image I attached is around 14 minutes of guiding, that's more than a worm period. Here's the log file also https://openphdguiding.org/logs/dl/PHD2_logs_lZyR.zip Once it clears, I'll try to test without guiding to check my PE curve anyway and I'll try PEC training the way you suggested but I really doubt it will help since it's very similar to what I did with my PEC training and got no different results
  11. I did train PEC with PECTOOL and it didn't work. I think it's because the peaks aren't periodic?
  12. i tried with and without pec on ? same result.
  13. I was just thinking the same about calibration. I usually calibrate close to dec 0. Do you think if something went wrong with calibration such peaks would occur? Especially since they're all towards the positive part of the graph?
  14. Thank you so much William! It could be that the worm to ring gear pressure is overtight since I can hear the motor working hard actually. Could that actually be the problem? As for the worm shaft, there is no play and it turns relatively smoothly. The RA rotates freely and smoothly. Your technique of pointing to a star and adjusting worm mesh pressure will not work with the AVX since I have to remove the whole motor assemble to be able to reach the screws for worm adjustment It could be that the whole RA gear isn't properly secured? the spacers in the AVX are terrible but I don't know if I Decide to replace them, what thickness to use.
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