FZ1

Same here please Grant! Thanks, Jon

Thanks Tony. I've just installed NINA and that has picked it up with no problems. Not sure why this software works but not the others? Jon

Tried it on another PC, still no joy. EZcap Camera drop-down only has "Scan Camera" as an option. Anyone got any ideas please? Thanks, Jon

Thanks Peter, my mistake - I misread the manual. I did Try EZcap (before I misread the manual!) and the camera wasn't recognised using that software either. I'll try it on another PC Yes, I've got the original Power supply plugged in Thanks again, Jon

Hi, Sorry for the numpty question,but here goes! I need to check-out a QHY10 to make sure that I can do things like set the binning, set the sensor cooling temp, etc. I don't need to do any more at present. I have installed the drivers (Win10) from QHY, but I can't get to "talk" to the camera (it shows in a group named "Astroimaging Equipment" in the Windows Device Manager). I've tried installing Smartcap, and ATP, but none of them "see" the camera.(the QHY EZCap doesn't support the QHY10) Any ideas as to how I can do a quick check on the camera? Thanks in advance, Jon

Thanks for the update and sorry that it didn’t work out. It looks like the Riccardi x0.75 is still the only really safe bet reducer/flattened for the Esprit 120 and 150.

@MoragaSky - Any feedback on the Apex reducer on the Esprit 120 yet? Jon

Oops, sorry John - just my reading of the discussion so far with no intent to cut it short. Let’s just call it a mid-discussion summary from just one point of view! 😄 Everyone Please crack-on with adding any additional value ! 👍 Cheers Jon

Thanks for all the info folks. The tech info is really what I was after, and I got that in spades, but discussion about different scopes is always interesting (Like I said in the OP, I'm not looking to buy, I'm just interested in the science, terminology and theory) In summary [1] for anyone browsing this thread in future: In terms of use, it seems that there's not a lot of difference in visual observing between a a good Achro doublet and an Apo triplet., so the definitions of each are less relevant or meaningful. However, for astro photography, long exposures with CCD or CMOS sensors are more sensitive than our eyes, so GENERALLY a triplet Apo will be better colour-corrected and therefor help give better photos. [1] - This is a generalisation of all input above. Everyone knows someone who paid 30-bob for doublet that takes better photos than the Hubble or knows of a £5,000 Quad that is rubbish .... but this is a summary! Cheers and Happy Christmas Jon

Thanks very much for the info Dave and John and thanks for the detailed explanation Vlaiv; very helpful I learn loads from reading all the posts in these forums and its rare that I end-up having to ask my own questions (and that's usually because I haven't spotted what I need in the search results) Thanks again gents, much appreciated. Jon

Quick question: I thought that an APO was a device that can bring all parts of the visible spectrum to focus at the same point. Received wisdom suggests that this can only be done with a triplet lens. However, I've seen adverts for Doublet APO refractors, so how can a doublet achieve Apochromatic results rather than the more usual Achromatic for a two lens system? And if its genuine APO performance, why does anyone bother buying a triplet? Any enlightenment will be much appreciated. Thanks! Jon P.S. I'm not buying, just interested.

Thanks for the tip - just watched it. Same for me with the landings of this and Elon Musk's one! Jon

Thanks gents, much appreciated. Jon

Thanks Magnus, much appreciated. Good point about "which wavelength". Given that the wavelength of visible light is (about) 0.4 to 0.7 micrometres, presumably the figures for red and blue light may be significantly different, so I assume there's an agreed standard. Jon

After a bit more searching, I found an answer that works for me (and answers my own question), but in case anyone else is interested ............ This thread from 2015 has a simple explanation and also clarification about Lambda and RMS values. It also has a simple explanation of the Strehl ratio as a bonus! cheers, Jon

Another basic question! I see things like 1/8th wave or 1/10th wave in high end scope specs. I get the idea that the higher the denominator, the better the optic, but please can anyone explain what it means? (or provide a link that does). Thanks, Jon

I’m impressed by the 2 year warranty on the Hubble, given how old it is. Another example of excellent service from FLO! cheers Jon

Did the firmware upgrade work, Blinky? (I don't have an EAF, I'm just being nosey! 😀 ) Cheers, Jon

Embaraasingly, I've done that! ? (although not on an Obsy). I now have a Second-hand Bosch cable-locator (I tried cheap ones, but this one really works).

And another thing .............! Although newbies can't create posts in the buy/sell forum (quite understandable to avoid scams and people just joining to sell something), its really useful to be able to view/buy as a newbie (or "returner" in my case). I've saved myself a fortune by buying a load of 2nd-hand kit from there, and got some excellent advice from the sellers in some cases. Jon

Been here a couple of months now and found the Beginners forums an absolute goldmine of info! Its a great idea, because more experienced members who want to help can answer, but noobs (like me) don't clog-up the "grown Ups" forums with daft questions! Excellent forum all round, so thanks to all mods & admins for the work, and thanks to members for being generous with their time & knowledge. Jon