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Ovi

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Everything posted by Ovi

  1. Hello! I've been using my SW 72ED with a StellaMira 0.8x FF for the past year and I can't say I'm too happy with its performance on an APS-C sensor. The stars in the corners are all around double the FWHM of those in the centre (pic below) and no amount of fiddling with the backfocus seems to fix it. Therefore, I've been thinking of buying another FF/FR, namely the one made specifically for this scope by SkyWatcher. Any experiences with it? If yes, does it fully correct and APS-C sized area? Suggestions for other field flatteners that you might use are welcome as well. Thanks!
  2. You add both the darks and dark flats in the darks section and they will be separated by exposure time. The script should automatically determine which is which (since the dark flats have the same exposure time as the flats and the darks have the same exposure time as the lights).
  3. I prefer seeing it as the debayered area being 60% more sensitive As for why not sticking with a color sensor, the allure of increased sensitivity and resolution are too strong to resist. If I can't the flats to work, I'll give this project one last chance and after that I'll be content with putting it down to sleep and going down the duo-band filter path.
  4. The black patches are actually around 60% of the brightness of the rest (they're patches where the cfa wasn't completely removed), it's just that the flat is very stretched. While I do not think the sensor is damaged, I'm starting to think I might not get flat calibration to work at all. I'll probably try again with another sensor since I wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing I abandoned this project while this close to success.
  5. Here they are. Unlike the ones I sent before, these are uncropped. L_0002_orion_20-52-43__1C_ISO800_120s.CR2 IMG_7340.CR2 masterFlat.tif
  6. Hello! Recently I succeeded in debayering a Canon 450D through polishing, which left me with a mono sensor. However, I've been having some issues with flat subtraction. Here's the stacked file: And here is the master flat: To me it kinda looks like the flat is being over-subtracted in certain areas. For context, here are an uncalibrated and a calibrated single light frame: You can start seeing those patterns appear in the calibrated image, although they are more subtle than in the stacked image. Any idea how I could fix this?
  7. Hello! I have noticed while shooting that the left and right side have pretty bad aberrations (even worse in the corners). My setup is: SW 72ED, StellaMira 0.8x FF/FR, T-ring, Canon 60D. Here's a sub I took a few nights ago: L_0006_NGC6992_23-08-08__22C_ISO800_300s.CR2 Here's a mosaic done with the aberration inspector in PI: And here are some screenshots from CCDInspector. I have no idea what they mean but maybe it helps I'd appreciate it a lot if someone here could help me diagnose the issue present here. My biggest fear is that this is caused by bad sensor alignment from when I astromodded my camera .
  8. This sounds interesting. See you all in a year.
  9. Hello! Yesterday I shot a bunch of exposures of the Rosette. The lens I'm using unfortunately has problems with focusing all wavelengths at the same plane. As such, while the G and B channels are focused, the R one is very unfocused. This leads to red halos around most medium-brightness stars (and probably loss of detail). How do I go about removing the red halos? I have access to PixInsight, Photoshop and Lightroom. Thanks! I have attached below an rgb image and one only with the red channel.
  10. Sorry for not writing this in the original post. I have a Canon 60D so afaik M42 lenses will focus to infinity on my camera.
  11. Hello! I am looking for recommendations for a 135mm lens for 100-150$ (preferably even less). I currently have a Nikon 135mm f/2.8 pre-AI, which turned out to offer quite a disappointing performance, producing red halos around all moderately bright stars and having visible coma in all parts of the image, save for the centre 1/3rd (1/9th by area actually). It is a good lens for daytime photography but it falls short when doing astrophotography. I am currently looking at the SMC Takumar 135mm f/3.5 (the 2.5 is a bit outside my budget and I would've used it stopped down to f/3.5 anyway). If anyone here has used a vintage 135mm lens before for astrophotography please share your experience. Thanks! PS: Here's a link to an unprocessed image of the Rosette I took with my Nikon lens at f/3.5: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y_aFcmDTh1BWf4k1yo83Qe61-Xi236iY/view?usp=sharing
  12. Unmodded DSLR block around 75% of Ha signal IIRC so it wouldn't really make sense to use an Ha filter with one.
  13. What dual bandpass filter would you recommend?
  14. Hello! I have a modified Canon 60D, Nikkor 135mm f/2.8 lens and Omegon MiniTrack LX2 tracker. Would 1 min long exposures (the limit with my mount) be enough to collect meaningful Ha data? Thanks!
  15. Most sites I've seen are based in the US and the import taxes are as expensive as the blank itself. Thanks in advance!
  16. Maybe it's this one: http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/
  17. On the morning of the March 18th the Moon, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn will be seen close to each other. Hopefully the weather will be good
  18. I bought a 9x50 Right Angle Sky-Watcher finder, an RA motor and a Seben 9-24mm eyepiece. Unfortunately the motor wasn't in stock and I'll have to wait something like 2 more weeks. (a somewhat late) Merry Christmas to you all!
  19. Now that I think about it, Betelgeuse really looks like it's dimming. I remember it being almost as bright (if not as bright) as Rigel. Now it looks like Rigel is twice as bright. I've sent quite some time wondering how it would look if Betelgeuse went supernova although it's quite unlikely it will in our lifetime
  20. Very nice! What were the steps you took to edit it?
  21. Hi Neal! Welcome to the forum!
  22. Hi, Dan! Welcome to the forum!
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