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About Newastro

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  1. Hi Merlin 66, Youre first statement was correct. When powered up on it's own it goes through it's setup routine including the warning messages but then the screen goes blank although the backlight stays on. I now seem to have another error as when the mount is connected I get one continuous warning tone? This thing is driving me crazy. I haven't taken off the covers etc to check the motors yet, I'm not keen to do this as I might cause more problems than I solve. Malcolm.
  2. Hi Parallax, I tried a different cable on the system and it made absolutely no difference to its operation, so I guess we can rule that cause out, but thanks for the suggestion. Malcolm.
  3. Hi Steve, Yes, It allows me to add my coordinates,time etc. But after doing the setup routine and reconnection to the mount not much happens on the handset screen when I ask for the telescope position? I'm confused! Malcolm.
  4. Hi Guy's Thanks for all the good info, but my main problem is that the handset screen doesn't display anything at all after it finishes the inialization and pressing all the buttons gives me precisely zip. Malcolm.
  5. Hi Beamish, Thanks for the helpful info that you posted. I am trying to run the mount from a 12V Power Station torch whilst it is recharging. Do you think that this is too optimistic and the cause of my problem? Malcolm.
  6. Hi Folks, It's some time since I posted a question on the forum as I've been busy at work and contenting myself with just reading all the good stuff that's been posted here by other people. However I have purchased a HEQ5 Pro mount and I was trying to test it out indoors and ran into a problem that I'm not sure how to solve. I have set up the mount into the home position but without the tube or counter weights attached and have the SynScan controller connected. When I turn on the power the contoller says that it's performing initialization and the the controller screen goes blank (back light still on) and pressing the keys does nothing at all. I have the Dec and RA locking levers slackened off. Is this correct or should they be tightened up during use? If some one out there could put together an idiots guide to starting up the mount I would be grateful as I don't want to damage the mount through ignorance as I've never used one of these mounts before. Thanks for any help you can give. Malcolm.
  7. More worryingly - What happens when the sun hits the mirror at the right time/angle? :sunny: Still I guess we could all get a good sun tan simultaneously
  8. Hi Barkis, You can find the beginning of this project at http://stargazerslounge.co.uk/index.php?topic=11596.0 Unfortunately I don't have any drawings for the mount, but I guess it wouldn't be too difficult to measure a few things for work to progress. Malcolm.
  9. Hi Barkis, I've done a bit more digging around on the subject of the drive for this beast and there seems to be a couple of good bets; a) There is the Mel Bartels system from the US which was my first choice initially - I believe that Arthur had a complete system up for sale recently but someone beat me to it - d*mn it! :x or There's the AWR Technology system which is relatively close to me in Deal (Kent). Either system with the correct gearing should allow me to both motorise the mount and hopefully make it 'goto' with the aid of a laptop and Skymap Pro software. My real problem's going to be attaching the drive mechanism to the actual mount as I no longer have a friendly engineer around to advise me and make any mounting plates etc. Malcolm.
  10. Hi All, As a newcomer to astronomy I looked at the Intes range of Mak-Newts and was impressed with the reviews they obtained. Could someone explain to a newbie why these scopes are near APO performance for visual use but not apparently for imaging anything other than the moon etc as indicated by Jamie? Malcolm.
  11. Hi again folks. I thought I'd add a photo of the aluminium drive worm and wheels I intend to use to motorise the Newt. I have a pair of each of these which were made for me as specials, the worm wheels are 8.75" o.d with 360 teeth and a 1" bore for fitting to each shaft, the worm itself is a single start and together they should give me a reduction ratio of 360. I haven't yet decided on the rest of the drive mechanism so any suggestions would be helpful to give me a range of options. Cheers for now. Malcolm.
  12. Hi CC, After prolonged discussions over a pint :occasion5: we came up with a couple of possible ways of making this glass fibre (GRP) tube, both depended on having a form on which to 'layup' the GRP. I was lucky enough to be around at work when some ducting was being installed in one of the lab areas and there was this 6->7 ft piece of 10" id grey PVC ducting about to be thrown in the skip, why not use this for the tube? - because the wall was only 2.5mm thick and definitely not rigid enough to prevent bending/flexing during use. So we could; a) Add a few layers of GRP to strengthen the PVC........... wasn't keen on this really as it would give an even smaller tube id for the primary etc but might be the only option if method didn't work Use the PVC tube as a form to create a completely new GRP one of 10" id. Now I'm no GRP expert so I'll try to explain it as it was explained to me. The tube was made by initially coating the outside of the PVC tube with a layer of releasing agent ( you have to bear in mind that for a 6-7 ft 2 layer tube the resistance against getting the inner one out might be considerable if not impossible ) followed by a black gel coat layer ( to make the internal surface permanently black ) and then applying a couple of layers of GRP matt and resin. Once dry a layer of E-Glass was added ( a linear stranded GF material) to add longitudinal strength and then another couple of layers of GRP matt and resin were applied to give a final outer tube thickness of 4mm. In order that the tube didn't bend or warp during curing of the resin the tube was Hung vertically from my mates workshop ceiling rafters for 1 month( "let gravity do the work" , unquote). Now the moment of truth arrives, can we get the inner form tube out??? The guys at my mates workshop were having a sweepstake on how long it would take him to get the inner tube out and how many !@&% words he'd use doing it! ( all guesses gratefully received). Any way he did get the inner tube out and we drilled the hole for the 2" focuser and the job was finished. This sounds easy but my mates very good at his job and spent some time arranging for a smooth operation and what to do if things didn't go to plan (e.g. - like hanging me from the rafters for a month for giving him the problem in the first place!). Hope this gives you some ideas. Malcolm.
  13. Last time, I guess I should mention the secondary whilst I'm at it. I wanted to remove the diffraction spikes often seen in images of stars taken with a normal 4 vane spider, so I ordered a curved vane spider from the US and attached it to my secondary as shown (hopefully) below, I hope that after the assembly of the whole OTA I will have an optical system that was worth the waiting. Malcolm.
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