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Robfal

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About Robfal

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  1. Telescope setup. Up until now I have been imaging with an atik 314L + on a skywatcher 200Pds Newtonian (F5 FL 1000mm) with a separate guide scope (Orion E80 F7.5 FL 600mm) in side by side mode. Used to have a very Old Qhy5 so could not use a OAG (have a TS OAG). Now got a much more sensitive Zwo120mm mini guide camera. What set Up would be best 1) stay with same setup 2) Newtonian with OAG. 3) Orion Ed80 with OAG Benefits of single telescope setup is lighter payload and no torsional loading Would I benefit from a focal reducer or coma correcto
  2. Hope someone can help me with this. Whenever I stack something (tried lots of different images from different sessions) in DSS I get black bands across the final image (possible in line with stars) see below. Any idea why this might be happening? I've also stacked the same images in ASTAP and these lines aren't there. Doesn't matter if I use calibration frames or not, this still appears I've included un-streteched images (TIFFS) and also stretched versions (over stretched!) which show the error better. No post processing is done on any yet As an aside, If not DSS wh
  3. I had heard that both the altair and QHY cameras could be problematic part of why I started this thread. I used to have a very old QHY 5 guide camera (just replaced it with a zwo 120mm) and had that working with INDI. I'll have to check how I did that, might be the same process for the 183C. My Pi 3b (considering moving to a Pi4 or mini PC) is also running headless. I like the concept of a mini pc mounted on the pier but only if it works effectively If you can get it running ekos has a pretty nice scheduler built in, it deals with focusing, platesolving, guiding and imaging and will
  4. Peter, A mighty fine image, particularly with only 2hrs of total. Most of my images has 8-10 300s subs per channel. I might be overdoing it and I'm very much a novice in terms of the processing in PS. I find it very difficult to remove gradients an bring out fine detail without making the image look false, More practice on my part. I had been moving to not upgrading the camera but then that picture makes me question that decisions. The photo's attached are from the Atik and the 200P reflector, Can't remember exactly but would have need considerably more time than yours from t
  5. Adam J Some very interesting reading. the difference between the OSC and the mono one is considerable, this was why I went for the mono Atik many years ago. Looking at the spec the QE of the Atik is much lower ( 60% vs 84% I think?) so the chip is less sensitive. One big concern was the Amp Glow but if 'Prusling' is managing to use a Dark library effectively to remove this then that is not as much a problem as I originally thought. Without doubt the mono has the potential to produce much better images but as a lazy imager the OSC version makes grabbing a quick image
  6. Prusling Thanks for the information; your setup looks to be very similar to mine. I'm controlling my setup through Astroberry/ekos which is essentially the free version of stellarmate. How do you find it? I was also considering upgrading to that too. Is the QHY working well with stellarmate (INDI)? Part of getting another camera was to get a wide field and 'normal' camera setup. I had thought of putting the Atik on the ED80 (maybe with a reducer) get get a wide field rig and mounting the 183 on the 200 reflector with an OAG for the Zwo120mm mini guider. It also good
  7. Thanks for the comment. Still undecided on what to do. The Atik has served me well and is, in general pretty reliable I have noticed some banding using Ekos and DSS but that could be due to the software too. In terms of FOV they would both be pretty similar so suited to galaxies and smaller DSO however the pixel count in the QHY is much higher. Using the coloured version (ie RGB Bayer filter) would still give the same resolution as the Atik and the mono version much higher. the QE of the Atik is around 60% (I think) whilst for the 183 around 84% which would possibly
  8. Having had a few years out of the hobby I now getting back into astrophotography and considering a camera upgrade. My current equipment is Atik 314 L+ Skywatcher 200PDS (FL1000 F5) Guide camera Zwo 120mm mini Orion ED80 refractor Electronic filter wheel (brightstar) Mount SW EQ6 Pro Currently using Astroberry/Kstars/Ekos on a raspberry PI to control it all. I can general get 300-450s frames with the guiding with good round stars I'm looking to upgrade the Atik so was considering a 183 Cmos cooled camera, specifically QHY183 c or mono with
  9. I have an atik electric filter wheel (old style) controled through a seletek controller inside which I have the cheap Baader RGB imaging filters. In general this setup works really well however occasionally I get a filter wheel error which will wreck an imaging run. I need to do some checks however i suspect it is the common problem of the thickness of the Baader filters. I'm toying with filing them down however I do fancy a better set. What filters would you recommend? The more expensive Baader ones look good however do they also have the thickness problem? I do fancy a new filter wheel
  10. Just to throw a spanner into the works. I've been using a QHY5 with an ED80 scope but could struggle with noise from the Cam (Fine with PHD both noise when using Maxim) I've recently acquired a DSI colour (second hand) and have been using that. Although its got a much smaller chip it is a CCD based camera not a CMOS( as the Qhy5) and hence has lower noise. Seems better with Maxim although still early days. Once I've decided one of them will be up for sale. By the way DSI are now coming onto the market quite cheap second-hand (astrobuysell and Ebay; well under £100 and much less than a new
  11. I think it might be due to guiding from within Maxim. With PHD I had less problems; I'll go back and re-try PHD. In trying to convert to Using Maxim as a think it has a slight edge with accuracy and can be controlled in a remote obs setup. In maxim I currently use 5 sec subs!. This was triggered as there are a couple of DSI 1c and a DSI pro going cheap at the moment cheers Rob
  12. I currently guide using a QHY5 and an ED80 scope however sometimes I fail to find a suitable guide star and have poor signal noises (CMOS Chip) Would I be better changing to use a DSI 1C (CCD Chip) as there's one going cheap on Astrobuy/sell? (Or a DSI 2) Which would be more sensitive? Comments/advice please Rob
  13. I agree Olly. I am surprised that there is a distinct lightening of the image to the one side. That's why I question that I've got the optical chain correct. Atik 314L M42 thread Atik Filter wheel (with 1 1/4 filters) M42 thread to focusser Currently got it on the ed80 but I'll transfer it back and then get a photo. Equally I'll get an image (probably a flat frame) Regards Rob
  14. Now fitted the atik to the ED80 and there is no vignetting. So what is the solution? Is the something I should do in the optical train or can this be corrected through the use of flats Rob
  15. Calling all Newtonian imagers! I've recently acquired a Atik 314L+ and currently setting it up. When I connect it to my skywatcher 200P DS Newtonian (imaging version) I can clearly see what appears to be vignetting in images. The wasn't apparent with the Atik 16ic I used before however this does have a much smaller chip. Should I be getting this vignetting (or is it coma) with my combo? Is there anything I can do to solve this? I have used the trial version of CCD Inspector and the scope is well collimated. However should I be adjusting the secondary mirror? Unfortunately I didn't save a
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