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About Forunke

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    Bavaria, Germany
  1. Coming back to post some results from playing around with some settings. I managed to stop the image flipping by using Subframes (PHD2, settings, camera, use subframes), which makes me think there's a bottleneck somewhere down my USB3 line. Will have to try the suggested firmware update to see if it helps but ultimately I'll probably switch to ethernet for data transfer. Thanks for all suggestions!
  2. As iwols said, try focussing during daytime then refine the focus on a star. Easiest way would probably be using Sharpcap. Turn down exposure and gain till the image looks like it's not overexposed (basically not white or black), then start with the focus at 0 and see if you can get a somewhat sharp image. Maybe you need to use spacers / adapters if you can't find the focal point.
  3. Well I was thinking about getting a new guidescope... maybe I should just go for a bundle then and use the ASI120 for planetary
  4. So how did you go about guiding then? Another cam? Different software?
  5. Ok, so this is a really annoying bug / problem that I have with my setup: From time to time, in non regular intervals the image my guiding cam (ZWO ASI120) send seems to get flipped / mirrored or looks like it's from a completely different patch of sky. When I'm paying attention to the guide images I can clearly see that the image seems to be flipped in some way. It only happens for 1 frame PHD send a warning ( No star found / Star lost Mass changed) and after that everything is fine again. My gear is all connected to a single USB3 Hub which then runs via powered USB3 cable to my Pc. I'm not binning and have the noise reduction off (though PHD might got hickups while processing) but it still happens. Sometimes there are minutes between two events sometimes it happens 5 times in a row. It also seems like it's only happening during guiding, I haven't seen it happen during calibration yet... I'm completely clueless what's happening or how to get rid of it, any help / idea is greatly appreciated.
  6. The data was captured on 22. & 23. of Feb. My first one this year and the first after 5 months of not being able to set up. It consists of 35 300s exposures using an UHC Filter and 10 500s exposures in Ha for luminance. Picture was taken with a ZWO Asi294MC Pro color on my Omegon Pro RC with a 0.8x reducer at ~1300mm focal length, riding on the IOptron CEM60. Stacked in DSS and processed in Photoshop. Personally I'm not to happy about the processing as there's a lot of grainy noise I can't get rid of. If anyone can point me to a good tutorial I'd be very grateful.
  7. I still don't own a filter wheel (guess I should really get one)... I imaged in two sessions and swapped out the filters in between. I use 2" Filters screwed into the imaging train. The 294Pro is a really solid camera, sadly I'm currently bottlenecking it with a rather badly collimated scope
  8. I followed this guide for my EQ5: or you could just buy an EQDirect cable. With these cables you plug into USB on your Laptop and into the RJ45 on your mount without the Handcontroller
  9. Oh... Ooohhh... I should do at least some google image search... Terribly sorry. I was assuming the EQ3 Pro had the same ports as the EQ5. In that case a simply USB to serial adapter and the included serial to rj12 would probably be the easiest method. Maybe the EQDirect cable could work if you swap the ethernet jack to an ethernet port though... but that's just guessing Edit: Isn't the Handcontroller connected through a ethernet cable to the box on the tripod? In that case a EQDirect cable should do the job. Hard to find a decent sized picture...
  10. I built my own EQDirect cable following this guide: If you know how to solder this is a super easy way to connect the mount. You can directly plug the RJ45 plug of this cable into the mount and don't have to use the handcontroller at all.
  11. I think the closest thing to what you're looking for is a "Demonstration Membership" at ITelescope... Though as I understand it you can only "look" through the scopes and you get no control over the scope. I can't imagine there's a site that offers their telescopes for free and if so they'd probably be booked out for quite some time
  12. I'm almost certain it comes from the camera itself cause no matter where in the sky I'm pointing it's always in the same spot. At first I suspected my filter had a defect but on further inspection I found nothing. as vimvb said, darks should fix it
  13. I will be adding calibration frames to the data in order to bring out more of the nebulosity and do a proper processing of the data, this was just some quick and dirty work to figure out how a luminance layer works.
  14. Decided to add some Ha and tried my first LRGB image... ~35 x 300s Ha frames added. Also played with the color balance. I think I'm slowly getting where I want to be.
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