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JimothyC

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Everything posted by JimothyC

  1. I'd be worried about the over all length of the scope. An RC8 is going to have a focuser and probably extension rings in place at the rear of the scope. It's going to be quite a bit longer than an SCT. But do let me know if you order and it fits as I'm looking for something to store mine in too.
  2. They seem to be really throwing the development resource at the az-gti at the moment. That's quite unusual for a product that's been out for a few years. I wonder if it's a benefit of the similar but new virtuoso scopes, or perhaps there's an new version of the mount on the way.
  3. Ah I see the carbon tubed 8" RC has arrived. Don't mind if I do, thanks. 🙂
  4. Thanks. Went to have a look and it was capturing dark and bias frames. Typical. Nice to see the pros going through the same process as we do.
  5. I purchased one of the new 4nm o3 Baader filters the other day to replace my original 7nm which used to show ridiculous halos. I've not tried it on Sadr, but here's an example sub from the other night which has a couple of bright stars and no halos. It's certainly an improvement on what I had before. I went for the Baader purely on price and availability. I'd love to have Astrodon or Chroma but I can't afford them. This is on an Altiar 102 Triplet with 0.79 reducer taking me to around F5. So although not as exotic as the Tak, probably not all that a dissimilar optical configuration. Here's an example frame of the wizard nebula, just given a quick stretch. I'll try a test shot on Sadr when clear skies next show themselves.
  6. Yep that's definitely the right one. You have 1 that sits at either end of the worm gear shaft. I don't have a better picture than this, but they sit roughly where the red boxes are, inside the motor/worm assembly. I've not had a chance to check it's performance in EQ mode with guiding, but it's performed better during some Alt/Az planetary imaging. Going away camping next week, so hopefully get a change to try it out then.
  7. Sounds like you need a scope on a dolly that you can wheel out of the garage. Unless you fancy a house swap with your neighbour across the street!
  8. If you spend enough time fiddling with Stellarium, you can reproduce your viewing position, including obstructions. Then you’ll be able to see what’s available over the next few years and what telescopes might be suitable.
  9. You could try the Rollright stones up by Chipping Norton. I think it’s a designated dark sky site. Does attract a few alternative types. But I’ve not had any bother up there.
  10. That adapter looks great, but if you want a slightly cheaper option and don’t mind a bit of wiring, I’m using one of these on my nuc.https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08DNDGZT7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZC01W7VD2498C8R7KM33?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 although most NUCs should be able to run on 12v. Although they ship with with a 19v PSU if you dig into the specs you should see that they’ll run on 12-19v https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/83254/intel-nuc-kit-nuc5i5ryk.html If you’re using a lifepo4 battery and a fairly short cable, it should be able to consistently deliver over 12v and you won’t need an adapter at all. in the end I went for an adapter as I wanted the option of fairly long cables and the possible voltage drop may have brought things below 12v towards the end of the batteries charge
  11. Don't worry Steve I do. Hopefully it's something you have before the next galaxy season comes around.
  12. Hey @FLO any thoughts of listing the carbon tubed version of the 8 inch RC? Might be helpful for those who plan to sail a little close to their mounts payload.
  13. Sorry didn't read your post properly. Yep these would have come from Skywatcher via the UK distributor. So would have been the same or whatever spec they're using now. I suppose it would be technically possible to source an alternative as long as you get the correct specs. I think you're looking for a 45:1 reduction or at least that's what a random PDF I found on the internet told me. There are websites full of the things, such as https://www.robotshop.com/uk/planetary-gearmotors.html but it would be an expensive experiment. I'm not entirely convinced what is sold as a premium component here isn't the same thing as a Chinese factory would be buying for pennies anyway.
  14. All the replacement bearings were purchased form a 3rd party supplier. Skywatcher wanted far to much for a replacement motor and worm unit. Which side is the movement coming from when adjusting the backlash? If it's the worm side, it could be the bearing. If it's the motor side when there maybe some movement in the planetary gear head on the motor. These can be carefully dismantled and cleaned and regreased with tweezers and a keen eye, but I'm not sure if that will help. You might also want to check the screws which attach the gear head to the motor are done up properly.
  15. Yep you should be fine. but you can't use EQMOD drivers as these only work for equatorial mounts. Download the Synscan app https://skywatcher.com/download/software/synscan-app/, and the Synscan app driver for ASCOM https://skywatcher.com/download/software/ascom-driver/ Then once you've started the app up and connected the cable to the mount, go to the app settings and set the connection settings to be serial. This should connect the app to your mount via the cable. It will then ask you if you want to select Alt/Az or EQ. The ASCOM driver will then provide the interface between your imaging software and the Synscan app.
  16. Ah so that would explain the issues I was having with PHD a few weeks ago that prompted me to take the whole mount apart and rebuild it. Let's hope this solves these issues and doesn't create any new ones.
  17. I've finally completed refurbishing my AZ-GTi with new bearings. Sorry to say that I didn't really take any additional photo's over and above what's already available on here and CN, so I won't bother posting them. I did however measure all the bearings, so if anyone wants to have a go at the same job, they'll know what to get. I thought as I was taking it apart, I'd replace all the bearings in the mount with higher quality ones and clean and regrease all the parts with high quality PTFE grease. Inner mm Outer mm Width mm in washers mm Qty Price £ GBP Total Item Worm Gear 4 11 4 4 £6.01 £24.04 https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p6710/SKF-619/42Z-Metal-Shielded-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-4x11x4mm/product_info.html RA Axis Thrust 45 65 3 5 1 £8.90 £8.90 https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p9634/AXK4565-Major-Branded-Needle-Roller-Cage-with-2-AS4565-Washers-45x65x5mm/product_info.html RA Axis Spindle 17 26 5 1 £12.18 £12.18 https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p366616/NSK-6803ZZ-Metal-Shielded-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-17x26x5mm/product_info.html Dec Spindle Outer 17 30 2 4 1 £4.13 £4.13 https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p9628/AXK1730-Major-Branded-Needle-Roller-Cage-with-2-AS1730-Washers-17x30x4mm/product_info.html Dec Spindle Inner 20 35 2 4 1 £4.38 £4.38 https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p9629/AXK2035-Major-Branded-Needle-Roller-Cage-with-2-AS2035-Washers-20x35x4mm/product_info.html Total ex Vat £53.63 In Vat £64.36 Apologies for the table formatting. It all went back together pretty easily. The only issue I encountered was making sure you don't tighten each of the axis to much. I found after reassembly that the RA/AZ axis was quite stiff, so I disassembled and loosened off the retaining collar on this shaft a little and this freed up things nicely. The mount seems to been working fine now, but I've been rather cloud restricted to try testing its guiding performance. But the axis seem to move much more freely now and it's much easier to balance.
  18. Just a quick follow up on this if anyone is interested. I spoke to the UK Distributor Optical Vision who offered to order a replacement motor and worm drive unit from Skywatcher. The cost for both axis was going to be around £150 including delivery and it would take at least 4 months. Give that a new unit is £250, I think I'm going to have a go at replacing the bearings myself and if I break the unit catastrophically I'll order a new one. I'll try and document the process, in case it goes well. I'd like to mention that Optical Vision were extremely helpful and prompt in their responses, so thanks to them.
  19. Took my AZ GTi out of a spin when I was camping a couple of weeks back. I was lucky enough to have a couple of clear nights on the Hartland Peninsula in Devon during a new moon. The sky was spectacular being only Bortle class 2, unfortunately the mount was not. I'd just upgraded the wedge to one of the Williams Optics numbers, which made polar alignment a lot easier and more reliable than the Skywatcher Star Adventurer one I'd been using previously. But once aligned and pointed at my target the mount refused to play ball, PHD was reporting huge declination issues, which I would have thought wouldn't really be an issue with good polar alignment. PHD wasn't even able to complete calibration as the star wasn't moving enough. Suspecting backlash in the Dec axis, I followed one of the many guides on the internet to adjust the backlash between the 2 45 tooth brass gears which connect the motor gearbox to the worm gear. Once apart the backlash didn't seem all that bad to be honest, but I thought it was worth a try adjusting. Whilst I had the brass gear off of the end of the worm gear I was able to rotate the worm shaft freely, it was then that I noticed that one or both of the bearings that support it were feeling very rough. I would have expected this to turn smoothly and with minimal resistance, but this wasn't the case. Which leads me to the following questions. Has anyone else who's had one of these apart had a similar experience? Is this normal levels of quality for a cheap Skywatcher mount and I'm expecting too much? Has anyone had any joy replacing the worm gear bearings? Can you get hold of spare parts for these from Skywatcher (I suppose I should ask them that)? I've had the mount for a while, so it's well out of warranty. But as I'm rather invested in the accessories for it now I'm tempted to just get another one. But I would rather repair it and would like to avoid the same problems with a new mount. This mounts was one of the early ones, which I got in a package with a 127 Mak. Has the quality of these improved, or is it still pretty hit and miss? It might be 3 or 4 years old now, but it's not had a lot of use, certainly not enough to wear out a bearing. If anyone can help with one or more of my questions, I would be most grateful. Thanks.
  20. Didn't realise he was power such a large setup. It generally does my mount, NUC computer, ASI1600mm cooler and a dew heater on main and guidescope all night. Not sure about Skywatcher mounts, but my iOptron only really draws much current when it's slewing, when tracking the power draw drops way off. One the big advantages of LifePo4 over lead acid, is you can routinely draw down 95% of the capacity without ill effect, wheras a lead-acid is only really good for 50-60% of the quoted capacity. Also the voltage is much more stable throughout the delivery of that capacity.
  21. If you want a cheaper Lifepo4 option, have a look at Golf Trolley batteries. Tiny bit of wiring required to create the necessary cables to connect to your mount/power distribution box. But will do the job perfectly. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTRAMAX-Lithium-Battery-perfect-MotoCaddy/dp/B082WH2YSX/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=golf+trolley+batteries&qid=1626792315&sr=8-5
  22. I use a LifePo4 Golf Trolley battery. It's basically a budget Tracer. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerhouse-Golf-Trolley-LiFePO4-Lithium/dp/B01N0SXPQJ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=lifepo4+golf&qid=1624916616&sr=8-2 Takes a little bit of wiring up, but easily done. Just make sure you fuse everything. But is capable of running a mount, dew heaters, tec camera, and NUC PC all night. I also use the talentcell powerbanks as well, but normally just for smaller stuff like and ASIAIR and AZGTI.
  23. I’d be wary of that jump starter battery’s ratings. I’ve seen them quote the mah for the batteries at their cell voltage of 4.2v. So you’ll possibly only see 1/3 of that capacity. Considering a high spec 18650 battery can give you 3000mah at 4.2v. You’d need 21 cells to give you a pack with 12v at 21000mah. That’s quite a big pack If you want something reasonably light weight but with good capacity, you should have a look at LiFePo4 Golf trolley batteries. I’ve got a 12v 22ah one and that lasts me all night with a dew heater, mount and camera cooler.
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