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Everything posted by Astrosharkey

  1. If you are using a filter wheel as described above its internal to the wheel and doesn’t effect the distance
  2. I used a powered hub with my guide camera, filter wheel, mount control and focus unit and my main imaging camera on a seperate USB lead to avoid conflicts, If I had both cameras on the hub it would cause issues.
  3. Longer vixen bar and I use a Baader counter balance kit on both my edge 8 and ed80
  4. I started the same way but quickly just got a cheap second hand windows laptop (do you really want that mac out there in the dew), all the software is free and I downloaded chrome and use the mac on the sofa via chrome remote to control the windows laptop that runs everything.
  5. I think it’s press shift and click mouse on the comet
  6. ADM do a fixing kit that fits on the edge with adjusting rings for the 80ed, also lets you move the top mount around for balance
  7. Sorry jiggy that was a question to Fred to see if we can work out if its a minor (set up) or major issue (blown board or power supply) or various other issues that can arise as i am sure you know
  8. Check your polar scope for alignment as well, i discovered mine was miles out, it takes a bit of fiddling to sort but is fairly easy, there are loads of tutorials out there on how to do it. I now use sharpcap (you need the pro version) and it takes a couple of minutes, before i used the pole star and polar scope just after sunset then have to wait till dark.
  9. I once corrupted a set of darks by looking at them in fits liberator! had to start again, think if you have done anything to them, i now just take them and leave them alone till needed then let DSS create a master and now never look at them at all. Also try stacking just the comet and see what happens.
  10. After you switch it on does the handset come on and after a few seconds using the arrow buttons can you move the mount??
  11. There are very few that you can do that visually on, I image but I am sure a knowledgable observer will give you a list of possibles.
  12. ADM do a kit that would do the job, but it is a long dove tail, i mounted my guide scope this way https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adm-mini-dovetail-series-mds-kits.html I dont think mounting like the finder scope would be rigid enough for the weight of an 80 but i may well be wrong
  13. Which Lenovo is it, I have a t420 (all usb2) and a t430 (2 usb3, 1 usb2 and 1 powered usb2)
  14. I have a Pegasus V1 fitted to my 80ed, I mounted it on a longer dovetail which does move weight back a bit but offset it with a counter weight up front, never had any issues and use it remotely via sharpcap
  15. I use an offset of 50 for all my imaging, tried 30 but it clipped so now just stick to one setting for all
  16. I keep everything the same for all settings, and use -10c for all my imaging. When I make a library i take 50 frames with the cap on in a dark place, all the same cables in the same ports and then when i process my first image with the darks let DSS stack them into a master frame. I have a set for 350 and 500 gain (but that is my camera) and a range of exposure times that I might use.
  17. I use one of these with extra lead attached to get balance on my scope https://www.firstlightoptics.com/counterweights/baader-dovetail-bar-levelling-counterweight.html
  18. Telegizmos covers, I have a 365 and leave my mount and scope out for weeks at a time, waterproof and thermally protected as well
  19. Anyone tried the combination before I possibly toast something??
  20. Yep, its a different world, much easier to use and a wide field for those bigger things out there (with my camera I get 2.5 degrees fov), no use at all on plantery or the moon really, but things like the rosette and California nebula just pop, although that said I am waiting to get outside and start setting my new edge 8 up to get back in close again, just remember no one scope does all
  21. I went from a 200p to the starwave ascent 80ed and a flattner / reducer and love it to bits, but the cooled cmos really changed things up a lot
  22. Only use the best frames not all of them, I tend to stack with autostakert and you can see what % of frames are good and only use those
  23. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-t2-extension-tube.html 7.5mm and 15mm together = 22.5mm
  24. HEQ5 and camera bodies all sound good, cannot comment on the scope as don't know it, get your basics sorted first, accurate Polar Align, learn the mount and you should be good for 30 sec subs to start with, when you are confident you can start adding guide scopes etc. I am also a Mac user but after lots of looking around for software etc (I now use PHD2, Sharpcap, ASCOM filter wheel and focus unit, DSS, Photoshop, registack, autostackert, pipp etc etc) I found it easier to get a second hand windows 10 refurbished laptop for putting out in the cold and damp with all the free software and monitor it all via chrome remote viewer on my Mac from the sofa! Not a purist in the slightest but even at the observatory means I can sit inside with a warm drink during the hours of imaging.
  25. I have a Pegasus focus cube fitted to my 80ED and works a charm both in and out of sharpcap
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