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Posts posted by Hogarth
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Managed two targets this week.. NGC 7822 was just intended to be a practice target, until the Rosette rose.. However I just kept shooting it and with it being a new target for me..
NGC 7822 (7hr 50mins)
Location: York, UK
04/01/2022, 05/01/2022, 07/01/2022
18 x Ha @ 600s
17 x Oiii @ 600s
12 x Sii @ 600s
QHY 268M Mono Camera @ -10, 56 Gain, Mode 1
Antlia 2"" Mounted 3nm Ha, OIII, SII Filters
QHY CFW-L 7x2"" Filter Wheel
Celestron CGX Mount
Sky-Watcher Esprit 100 Telescope (550mm f5.5)
Orion 240mm Guidescope
ZWO ASI290mm Guide Camera
PrimaluceLab SestoSenso 2 Focuser
Pegasus Pocket Powerbox Advance
PHD v2.6.10
Nina v1.10 HF3
Pixinsight 1.8.8-12Astrobin Link: https://astrob.in/21lpal/0/
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My head is spinning...
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Just my own thoughts
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3 hours ago, Elp said:
At the price they're asking for they can keep it.
significantly cheaper than Crux or Rainbox Astro, but are there reason why... I've got a 'reaction and my own thoughts video uploading to YT' if anyones interested
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As i understand, harmonic mounts can suffer badly from PE.
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On 14/12/2021 at 18:11, dazzystar said:
Brilliant guys...thanks so much for the reply. They've been very helpful. I have heard of Astroberry. If it's the same as Stellarmate, why would anyone buy it?
I do want to image and control everything from inside so speed is very important over Wi Fi. Is Windows RDP really that much better?
The main difference is stellarmate has an app for tablets/phones like ASIAIR does.
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If you use Pixinsight, it has a very underused feature called annotate image, which I initially thought was to do with annotating an image after plate solving, but no it allows you to overlay very easily a signature
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3 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:
I always assumed this was the actual current to hold the motor in place when not in motion but it will not be in amps for sure.
I doubt the focusser motor will even take an amp when moving full speed with a heavy load and the hold current will be less.So I suspect it is just some arbitrary scale with 5 being the maximum current and 1 the lowest but what what that current is I have no idea. Also I suspect the current will be chopped (it will go on and off very fast frequency) to give a better hold but not burn out the motor coils so probably between 1 and 5 the difference in actual current could be quite small, but still I am suprise you can not see any small change in the current on the powerbox.
All this is my assumption as I too cannot find anything on Google to define what the Hold Current actually is.
Steve
thanks.. looking at other generic stepper motors, the hold current appears to be in shown in milliamps.. so maybe its 1ma to 5ma.
i'll keep looking, hopefully no "communication breakdown before the levee breaks"
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1 hour ago, Carbon Brush said:
Suggestion.
Write down the values before you start adjusting. You can always go back to these.
Position the focusser vertically. In other words lifting a load against gravity, not hoisting up a gradual incline.
Add something heavy - like a weight on a string. Heavier than a big eyepiece/camera.
Also if you drop the load......Gradually reduce the run current until the weight is not reliably lifted.
Gradually reduce the hold current until you can just start to pull the weight down with a little force.I'm thinking you will find the motor runs OK with fairly low values set. Now increase these by say 50% and run the scope.
HTH, David.
thanks, thats a great suggestion
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So I suspect my focuser may be slipping, due to the Sesto Senso 2 not holding it (not proven, but want to rule it out)
I have two rigs both with seperate Sesto Senso 2's fitted
The odd thing is, I've read from the factory the default preset is to to Heavy and Slow, but when I look at both mine.. This is indeed true, but the hold current is set to 1 on one focuser and 3 on the other focuser. ( I havent changed this and they were bought from new)
So I thought i'll just toggle through the three presets and see what the Hold Current changes to. Unfortunatly it sets it to 1 for each preset..
The manual literally says
Hold: set the hold current, when the motor is stoppedNow if this is amp's, when i change the Hold value to 5 (the max it can be), I see no amp draw difference (I have a Pegasus powerbox, so useful to see the draw being made)
So the question is what is this Hold value and which is the right value to hold a heavy train.
Thanks in advance- 1
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I’ve also had this issue, but since upgrading to v1.3 of their firmware and drivers. It’s never re occurred
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So with the UK weather being abymsal, I spent Sunday afternoon researching and making a video on running Android Apps on Windows 11, without the use of BlueStacks.
Namley the ASIAIR Android App and it worked... but there are some hoops to jump through
Why ? nothing better to do and whilst Bluestacks might be the preferred way at the moment, I like messing around with tech.
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These work great with the PocketPBA and the Sesto
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-cables-leads-accessories/lynx-astro-silicone-power-cable-21mm-dc-jack-to-25mm-dc-jack.html
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Hello
I wonder if some can advise on this
Long time refractor owner, first time SCT (EDGEHD 8") owner
I've bought the Baader Diamond Steeltrack external focuser and my question is
Does the focuser mount onto the thread as shown in the picture, or does that need to come off and mount flush to the back of the OTA
Thanks in advance
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Also this is covered in the FAQ section - item number 16
https://www.qhyccd.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=30&id=22
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Hey
I’m 99% sure this will be to with the laptops power management settings in both the BIOS and/or Windows 10
you can prove it is this first before adjusting any settings, by simple making your laptop busy whilst using the PM software. (this stops your cpu c1 state kicking in and dropping the cpu speed to save power). Play a YouTube video in the background, then see if your PM and it’s software works as expected. You can do this anytime, indoors etc, as the freezing, glitching occurs irrespective of what it’s pointing at.
if this seems to solve this issue, you can then go ahead and fix it by turning of any cpu throttling in the bios (every laptop shows this in different ways, but is usually called CPU C1 state, cpu throttling, CPU management, CPU step down.. you get the idea). Also in Windows, choose the high performance power plan.
I have 5 people on another forum confirm this fixed this issue for them (and also myself, when I moved to a new laptop). It does sound like the same issue your having
Love the channel btw. Shameless plug to mine https://youtube.com/c/HogarthUK
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On 16/12/2020 at 20:34, gilesco said:
Can't help but notice you have a Pegasus attached there, how did you go about that?
(I'm choosing to mount it on something attached to the tube rings).
Hello
its literally on some Velcro, which I was skeptical about, but I’ve used some incredible strong stuff. It doesn’t budge and is quite difficult to actually remove the box it’s that hooked on
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I have a Esprit 100 and my draw tube is also quite far out to achieve focus.
also whilst researching back focus on the esprit range , it seems widely accepted the manual is incorrect, well certainly for the 100. The manual says for mine 63mm of back focus when using a FF, but it’s actually 55mm. I tried mine at 63 and at 55 to test and it’s certainly way better focus at 55mm
not saying the 120mm manual is wrong, but I would investigate this just to confirm.
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Just had a really strange issue with my CGX
After about 3 hours of imaging, going rather well, I noticed PHD2 start complaining it cannot send any pulse guides to the mount and the current exposure was a total mess of trails. Stopped PHD2 and did a Quick test of a 10 second exposure and sure enough it’s not tracking anymore.
Noticed in Apt, the R.A. and DEC co-ordinates were all strange negative numbers. Just didn’t look right..(mount thinks it’s suddenly in the Southern Hemisphere ?)
So told the mount to go home using the hand controller, it started going down towards the ground. Stopped it and shut the power off, move the axis manually back home and switched back on, did a quick home position all good. Packed up for the night.
Details
CGX firmware 7.15.9120 (notice a newer one came out in April 2020)
Starsense hand controller - latest firmware
Latest ASCOM Celestron driver
USB Cable from PC to bottom of hand controller
Star aligned with Celestron starsense
APT v3.84
PHD2 2.66
I was Imaging M81/m82 way past the meridian at the time
Temp around 3 degrees C
Location : UK 54 degrees lat. Definitely northern hemisphere
Feels like some odd software glitch.
Anyone experienced this ?
Altair Astro Starwave 130ED F7 refractor Flattener 1.0x options ?
in Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups
Posted
Hello
I have a Altair Astro Starwave 130ED F7 refractor (2022 version). I'm looking at putting a 1.0x Flattener on it
The focuser drawtube has a M92 thread on it
I was wondering if the TS-Optics M92 1.0x flattener is suitable.. My head say it should work, but wanted to ask anyones opinion of why this wouldn't be a good match
https://www.astrosho...-0x-m92/p,60621
Or even the WO Flattener Flat68III which also has a M92 thread on the telescope side
https://williamoptic...flattener-68iii
Altair Astro do their own 0.8 and 1.0x flatteners, but the 1.0x flatteners are not due in stock for months according to them when I asked.
From what I can see the Altair Starwave range looks to be an OEM scope and Orion, TS-Optics etc all appear to do the same models, with slightly different modifications, but again i've read somewhere they are technically the same scope.
Thanks in advance