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About Skinnypuppy71

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    Ayrshire /South West Scotland
  1. I was out on Monday night at Galloway forest Park....it wasn't really pitch dark as the moon was out.....but for the first time I saw the orion nebula.....wow...then a shooting star flew through the view of the eyepiece...WOW...an amazing sight....I also took in the plaides and a few stars....sirius,beatlguise and the obligatory view of the moon with varying magnification....It was a productive night.lol.I very much enjoyed it.
  2. The olympus omd models do have a bulb mode along with live composite and live time....live composite is basically a in camera stacking feature that allows you to take images from a fraction of a second to a minute (I think)and stacks them from the time you open the shutter until you stop it,also the camera only exposes new light and never overexposes the final image....a very nifty feature....I have a omd em5 mk 2.I haven't used it for astrophotography as yet...just some star trail stuff at the moment....really need to get a star adventurer tracking mount to really see if this mode lends itself well to any kind of astrophotography work.
  3. Hay Flydoc...when you say a 12v adapter...do you mean a power tank.....if so...I don't know what kind of power the mount draws but I'm currently using the phase 4 in 1 17 ah jump starter power tank from Halfords....it has two 12v sockets and is less expensive than skywatcher or celestron's own offerings...maybe not as focused on powering mounts etc but is over half the price and is holding up well so far.
  4. My camera Is a olympus omd em5 mk 2......not a Sony, happy cat, unfortunately.......I wouldn't mind a Sony mirrorless right enough...the thing I'm kind of struggling to understand at the moment..Is if I attach my camera via the various adapter /t mount.......I'm using the telescope as the lens,but yet...nothing is actually magnified...unless I view through a eyepiece....so my camera is basically seeing the sky via a couple of mirrors.......does the focal length of the telescope have an effect on magnification?sorry if this seems a dumb question but when I want magnification for my camera....I need glass.lol.
  5. So would I need a L bracket and ball head or a dovetail bracket to attach my camera to the mount....oh and thanks for the response it's very helpful.
  6. The 150pds is around 100g shy of the recommended 5kg max payload of the mount.but it seems to cope quite well slewing the scope around.
  7. I didn't think I would be able to do any kind of AP with the skywatcher star discovery mount which I own along with a 150pds....so is it actually worth purchasing the required t mount and adapter for my olympus micro 4/3rd 's camera..or even the L bracket to attach my camera and 12-40 f2.8 lens to the mount...I know long subs are out of the equation but would I manage 30-60 sec subs at say 800-1600 iso.....and not get trailing?
  8. Maybe keep a wee eye on your white balance also....this could be affecting the colours being produced...but as said earlier...if you're shooting raw files this can be sorted when processing.....your lens sweet spot should be around f9...keep the iso as low as possible as mentioned and if shooting on a tripod ....turn off any image stabilisation if the lens has it built in..I know the nikon doesn't have in body ois.
  9. Well...I viewed that super blue,blood moon tonight...wow..what a sight...but it nearly blinded me..it was that bright....I think a filter might have been required . lol
  10. In the photography world..f stop is related to the amount of light a lens let's into the camera sensor...f1.8 very wide aperture (fast lens)and enabling faster shutter speeds f22 very narrow aperture and slower shutter speeds and as focal length increases so does the length of time the shutter needs to gather the required amount of light....it pretty much translates over to telescopes in much the same way...but instead of sensors...we use our eyes. A f5 telescope is also related to the amount of light it gathers.....a 750mm focal length scope with a 150mm(6inch)aperture...750mm divided by 150mm =5 the f number of the scope..so for this scopes focal length /aperture,it is a fast scope it allows more light gathering ability than say a 1500 mm scope with the same aperture....1500 divided by 150=10....f10...the focal length of this scope related to it's aperture let's less light through and therefore the image will be less brighter than the f5 scope . you'd have to double the aperture of the 1500mm scope for the same light gathering ability of the 750/150mm scope...but in turn it'd be able to retrieve the light from much dimmer objects with it's longer focal length this would then become a very expensive scope I'd imagine....especially in refractor from.lol.I hope I have done a decent job of explaining as I'm pretty new to telescopes myself but more in tune with camera's and lenses.lol.
  11. Yeah . it's tough....I think I've got the jinx thing going on....bought my first scope during Christmas period....have had it out once and it's done nothing but rain,sleet,snow and gales here in sw Scotland since ....guess I can expect this until at least March...doh!
  12. Hi Mikey some great images their....I just got myself the 150pds but don't have that level of Mount as yet (star discovery).But good to know that the scope is that capable with a camera on board.
  13. Before embarking on any type of specialist photography...you need to learn your camera first.....shooting in manual for a start...learning that aperture has influence on exposure times and iso speed etc....to me it seems that the op might be trying to run before even being upright.lol. First you need to start shooting in manual mode. When looking through the camera eyepiece (or live view)at night to the sky...all you will see is some little dots and it will look rather uninspiring......it's long exposures(camera shutter left open)that allows the sensor to gather in as much light as possible at the widest aperture available within the lens fitted to the camera (most kit lenses have an aperture of f3.5-f4.5 at it's widest at it's shortest focal length and f6.5-f7.5 at it's widest for it's longest focal length.....and enthusiast/pro lens can be anything from f1.2 -f2.8 prime lenses (fixed focal length)and various f2.8 short zoom lenses can be had....these types of lenses are usually quite expensive.To be able to achieve long exposures towards the night sky you are pretty much constrained to the five hundred rule....500 divided by the focal length of lens (full frame equivalent)...so eg...I shoot with my olympus omd em5 in with a 12-40 f2.8 lens....this is a micro four thirds sensor and has twice the crop factor of a full frame equivalent so my 12-40 now becomes 24-80....500 divided 24=20 seconds at the lenses shortest focal length and 500 divided by 80 = 6 seconds at it's longest focal length.....if you want all that heavenly glory for longer exposures...a tracking mount of sorts is going to be needed....but I'd suggest getting used to the camera on a sturdy tripod and getting some night sky shots with just your lens and getting used to how the camera reacts to the various settings....higher iso...longer exposures etc.hope I have been of some help. Ps..if you want to use your camera to shoot through the scope...you first need to remove your camera's lens and attach a camera mount adapter and t mount to achieve this....but again to get sharp points of light you will be constrained by the five hundred rule.....500 divided by the focal length of the telescope this time as that has now become the lens.
  14. Just saw the above post..I was about to say that flo also have the hubble St on....the last page of their offers tab.lol.
  15. There is a good topic thread "eyepieces the very least you will need" on the other getting started thread.tells you how to work out the mag and the ideal sizes of eyepieces for the apertur/focal length of telescopes.f5 like the Explorer you and I have are 2x barlow,8mm,18mm and 25mm for starters.
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