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  1. Am I misunderstanding something, or is this image supposed to be a stack? https://www.dropbox.com/sh/al8ejep8e7demnv/LPWEns75N2 It looks like a single image to me, the header says it is a 600 second exposure, but no history of stacking. If it were a stack then I think your workflow is wrong, OSC images should be colour converted before stacking. The background gradient looks quite smooth though. The camera does seem to be producing a lot of hot/warm pixels, I see the temp was -10, what was the ambient temperature, I would expect a Q8 to be cooling lower than that in the UK winter?
  2. Much as the others have said my experience is: Venus is very bright, and an easy naked eye object even at noon. Jupiter is plainly visible in a scope in full daylight, but very washed out. Saturn is 'difficult' in scope in full daylight.
  3. That app is not using the terms geocentric and topocentric in the way they are normally understood (i.e. correctly used ). It is using them in relation to the orientation of Jupiter's axis on the display which has nothing to do with geo/topocentric. The clue is in 'geo' which means Earth! What the app is showing (as far as I can tell) is either Jupiter with its North/South axis upright, or with the user horizon horizontal, and Jupiter tilted over at its apparent angle visually (or in with a Az-Alt scope).
  4. Could it be a very slight tilt on filters causing an off-axis reflection back to the camera? You would only see this on bright stars. Can you attach one of the filters directly to the camera removing the filter wheel?
  5. Make the 'Animation' Window visible, and 'Save for Web and Devices...' when you're done.
  6. Dunno, but I like the "subject distance" in the image info - 4294967295m, very precise! "taken a couple of hours ago" makes it around 01:30, the image is time stamped 02:32. So 1 hour difference, South Africa somewhere? Of course the camera could still be on UK time and you forgot to take BST off!
  7. As you are probably aware no gear is perfectly concentric with it's central bore, so you will find that the backlash does change (usually by a small amount) as you run the gear around 360 degrees. On the Losmandy forum they recommend adjusting the backlash at the tightest point to avoid binding. Not sure if you have adjustment on the EM200? If no adjustment, find the spot on the worm wheel where you have least backlash, then slip the clutches to move the mount into a position where you use that area of the worm wheel when imaging. Off balancing can also help, but not too much or it induces 'bounce', and as you state, as the OTA points towards vertical the amount of off balance reduces. Other than that, its basic stuff like making sure all your cables are routed back to the mount rather than hanging - that has most effect when the OTA is horizontal.
  8. I have a calculator for this on my website
  9. You can't yet (other than print screen), there is a Print Sky plugin under development by Pep Pujols and you can download a test build of Stellarium that incorporates it, but by all accounts it is still buggy.
  10. 23.6 does seem very high though I see MyDarkSky has a reading of 22.72 in the forest is is pretty good by any standard. Last time we were up there I can vouch that it was 'pretty' dark, NELM was way beyond 6 (though not actually determined), the gegenschein was a very obvious bright patch - mistaken for a cloud at first!
  11. Things like filters and optical windows in the path will change the required distance slightly. I found my Televue TRF-2008 which TV say "the spacing between flange and CCD is 56mm +/-2mm for best results" needs to be tuned within 0.5mm to get the absolute best out of it.
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