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About Snooze

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  1. Such a great deal! Too bad I'm in the wrong country
  2. Had a nice opportunity to image Comet 46P on Sunday when the clouds decided to clear off just before midnight on Sunday 13 x 45s subs at 70mm f/5 Canon 1200D + Sigma 70-300 + Star adventurer mini
  3. Little session from last Friday. My first real image of this target 15 x 1min subs ISO800 @300mm f5.6 Canon 1200D modded + Sigma 70-300mm + Star adventurer mini mount Found out my lens has quite a bit of coma at 300mm f5.6
  4. Orion @135mm. Only 10 x 1min subs under light light polluted skies. There was also a very thin layer of clouds. Will try to add more data next weekend if the sky is clear. Star adventurer mini + modded 1200D + Hoya uv/ir cut filter + sigma 70-300
  5. I don't think the issue is focal length because the periodic error(if it really is PE) would still be the same. Plus there are a few people managing long focal lengths quite well with the Mini version. I will have to run more tests.
  6. I would say my polar aligment was good(was doing 50s subs) and some subs had nice round stars
  7. Hello everyone, I was imaging M45 a couple of nights ago with my Star Adventurer Mini and the stars would move up and down(oscillate) as the session progressed. I thought it was normal and that is was due to periodic error. So I decided to try and measure this error. I found that the stars moved 24 pixels(highest position upwards to lowest position downwards) and using a 135mm lens with my 1200D I had a pixel size of about 7" per pixel(according to http://www.blackwaterskies.co.uk/imaging-toolbox/) . That would give me an error of about 168" which is huge, compared to the 50" error that was measured in Phil Hart's test. Now maybe I did something wrong with the calculations. What do you guys think?
  8. Will the UV filter be enough to control star bloat? There are some cheap UV/IR cut filters on ebay but they don't mention at what wavelenght the cut off starts.
  9. So I did the mod but things did not go as planned. I cracked the LPF1 filter when trying to remove the filter holder. So in the end I just removed everything I tried to focus on the moon(with the CLS filter clipped in) and it focused a little before infinity Now my only concern is star bloat
  10. Thanks for the replies guys. From what I have gathered from your replies I will try to remove only 1 filter. I don't really care about autofocus since the camera will only be used for astro work after I mod it Cheers
  11. Hello everyone, I got a 1200D for a nice price on ebay and was thinking about modding it. I found some nice tutorials(lifepixel) and videos that I can follow to perform the mod. My questions are: 1. Since it will be purely used with lenses, will I be able to reach focus after the mod if I don't intend to replace the IR filter? 2. As I understand, there are 2 filters in front of the sensor. Should I remove both of them or only one? Would removing only one help achieve focus? 3. I will also use a clip in CLS filter. Will it help reduce star bloat since I'm not replacing the IR filter? Cheers
  12. Had another go at the double cluster and Heart & Soul. Went for 2min exposures this time @70mm.
  13. Went out friday night to have my first DSO imaging session for this year. This was also the opportunity to test my new Skytech CLS filter. The target for the night was the double cluster, widefield and close up. @70mm => 15 x 90s subs Was a little bit disappointed because I did not catch any Ha from the Heart and Soul. @200mm => 15 x 60s subs
  14. Yes everything is locked and tightened. I mean it does not flex like crazy and it is pretty steady when imaging but it still feels like a weak point comapred to the other parts of the mount
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