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Some Dude With A Mak- Cass

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About Some Dude With A Mak- Cass

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    Video games, astronomy, astrophotography, EDM music. They mix surprisingly well.
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    guess ?
  1. I'm trying to pick out a good camera for astrophotography. It needs to be cheap, which I know means reduced quality, but this camera is just so I can decide if I want to pursue astrophotography further. I want to be able to image both planetary and deep space with it, but most cameras are really one or the other, so if I can only have one I'll take planetary. Also, I'd love some basic tips and advice that will make this easier. I have a few questions, but the one I most want an answer to is about camera types. There are a bunch of different kinds, and I don't know what the difference is. I Googled it but Google only confused me more, which seems like a bad sign to me XD. Finally, I'm using a Celestron Skyprodigy 90 Mak- Cass. From what I've heard, Mak- Cass scopes aren't great for astrophotography, but I don't remember why. (It's been at least 5 months since I used my scope last, because of how cold and long winter is where I live.) Thanks for your help!
  2. This is pretty much my exact setup right now, and I highly recommend it. The GOTO features are awesome, and even though I don't really need it anymore I still use it when I can. I got mine for about $500, and it was worth every penny. Only thing is, I wouldn't take it on a motorcycle if I had a choice. If you have access to a car, that would be better, but if you can secure it to the side of the motorcycle and drive carefully you can probably make it work. I would recommend getting the peterson first guide to astronomy, it costs like $10 and is probably the single most helpful astronomy tool I own. I would also recommend the total skywatchers guide, its a bit more expensive but very helpful, and it has lots of cool ideas to help you explore the sky. There are a lot of astronomy apps, but my preferred app is night sky 4. The in-app compass doesn't always work right without wifi, so if you don't have wireless data you will need to correct it every now and then. One more thing: most GOTO scopes don't have very good finderscopes. Even though the telescope finds stuff more or less by itself, I would recommend spending a little cash on a better one just in case. Anybody who wants to do astronomy can, even if you only spend $50 on a cheap little refractor and only look at the moon, if you really want to eventually you can work your way up to something better.
  3. I am building a telescope for the first time, and I had some questions. Most of them were answered on a separate thread which I will link, but I had one I forgot to ask. I am using Quiktube for the optical tube, and I need to paint it to stop light from bouncing inside to much. The problem is that the inside is waterproofed, so I am not sure how to paint it. Should I use a primer? And when I put the black paint on the inside, what is the best way to do it? It seems to me it would be really hard to paint the inside of a big tube, so I have been trying to figure out the best way to paint it. What have you guys used in the past? old thread:
  4. I know the feeling. When I first saw a star cluster (I don't remember which one it was now) I thought it looked too red, but now I know it just had a weird number of red stars. Before photographing an object, it's a good idea to look it up so you know what to expect from the object.
  5. I am fairly new myself, so I can say from what little experience I have that the best thing you can do is look at the moon. And then again. And again. I would recommend looking at the moon every free night you have for at least a month. You will learn a a lot about the moon, and you will learn how to aim at and find a very small object. Once you do that, I would say the best thing to do is try to look at a planet. They are small and hard to find, but are well worth the time and will help you learn how to find even smaller objects. I would also recommend a pair of binoculars, I have a good pair and use them far more than my telescope. (Mainly for convenience, but they really are a great tool that even the best astronomers use frequently.) Depending on whether you are in this for the science or the views, I would recommend either Turn Left at Orion to find cool stuff to look at, or the Big Book of Astronomy to help you understand what you are seeing. Both are excellent tools, and I would recommend having them both eventually, but pick one or the other based on what your goals are. I am not a professional by any means, but feel free to message me if you have questions. I can't guarantee I can answer them, but I can guarantee I will try. Have fun, and bring a blanket and hot chocolate!
  6. I don't know much about imaging, but there are a lot of blue stars in that cluster. What cluster did you say it was? It could just be that it has lots of O and B class stars, because the image looks fine to me.
  7. That is something I hadn't thought of. A raspberry pi doesn't make much heat, but it might make enough to have an effect. Thanks for the tip!
  8. I might experiment with some of the nearest objects like the Andromeda galaxy and some binary stars, but I am planning pretty much exclusively on this being a scope for the moon and planets, because a raspberry pi camera is, as you said, not built for this. I might try stacking exposures, but I have more interest in the moon and planets right now.
  9. That is very true, but it adds other possibilities. I could connect the raspberry pi to some motors and a laptop with tellurium for a PushTo system, for instance. Don't like giving up the versatility of eyepieces, but I have a pretty nice mak that is more than strong enough for visual observing most objects visible in my area, so I think it is worth it.
  10. Are you sure about the F ratio? I looked it up yesterday because I didn't know what it was, and that was what I found. You are right that mounting a raspberry pi doesn't have very many advantages, but for me the biggest are that it is way cheaper than a good camera, and I can use the raspberry pi for other things as well, like eventually I want to set it up with a stellarium-guided PushTo system, and the raspberry pi could be used for that as well. There are a lot of things you can do with a raspberry pi, which is why I am giving up some things, like eyepieces, for the potential improvements I could make.
  11. I am building a newtonian reflector telescope for the first time, and I have a few questions about things like focal ratio and identifying how long the telescope needs to be. I understand the basics of a focal ratio, a smaller number like an f/4 gets me a brighter image at the cost of clarity and field of view, while i higher number like an f/6 is dimmer but clearer and wider. I am planning on an 8" (203.2mm) primary mirror, and as an added complication (but definite benefit) in place of a secondary mirror I am adding a raspberry pi and a raspberry pi camera that will stream images to my laptop. I am going to 3d-print a holder for the electronics, does anybody know if there are print files for it I could use? The mirror will be 8" (203.2mm), but I am going to put it all in a 10" (254mm) wide Sonotube rather than an 8" (203.2mm) because it is more (comparatively) affordable and would allow me to upgrade to a larger mirror in the future if I wanted. My problems are that I can't choose a focal ratio I like, the telescope I have now is an f/5 and I am pretty happy with it, but I want a clearer image. However, I don't want to have to give up brightness for it. It wouldn't be such a big deal if I could use eyepieces to counteract some of that, but using the camera instead makes that impossible. I will probably end up going for a f/5, but I wanted to get your thoughts incase you know something about this I don't, because I am certain you do. My biggest issue, bigger than the f/r dilemma, is that I can only get 48" (1,219.2mm) long Sonotube where I live, and that may not be long enough to fit the focal length in. Let's say I go with my gut and get a f/5 mirror with a focal length of 39.4 inches, (1000mm) would I need it to be any longer than the 39.4 inches or could I just cut it precisely to 48" (1,219.2mm) and be done with it? I assume I would need a little extra space for the camera and the pi, so maybe it would end up closer to 42"(1,066.8mm), bit I wanted to make sure I understood it before I even buy the tube. My last question is about the mount. I am probably going to build my own, I have been thinking about a cabinet sort of thing, like a youtuber called StormTheCastle did, but I don't like that it isn't very stable. I was going to widen the base for stability, but then portability becomes an issue. What are your thoughts about mounting options? I want to build one if I can, but I have no problems with buying one from Orion if I have too. I think that is all my questions, thank you for helping.
  12. I am building a newtonian reflector telescope, and I could use some help. This is my first DIY telescope, so I am pretty unprepared and don't know where to buy some stuff, namely optics. I am planning on going for a 8" aperture, but I can't find a website that sells mirrors. What website or sites has good quality mirrors but isn't to expensive, and what mirror coating is best? All help is appreciated, thank you in advance!
  13. nice views of uranus, they look really good! what kind of scope are you using again?
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