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Everything posted by lenscap

  1. Noticed some very unusual and interesting kit for sale on UKAB&S. Includes optics by Lukehurst, Nichol, Sinden and Es Reid, and mounts by our very own @Peter Drew. Look for "Selling most of my kit" No connection with seller.
  2. Young's Modulus ( stress/strain) is a measure of bending strength. In round numbers brass is about 1/2 the strength of mild steel. Dural is about 1/3 the strength of mild steel. I would go with brass which is heavier ( good for a counterweight bar) and the threads should be harder wearing.
  3. Clever design. I don't have one of those but it seems to tick several boxes, sturdy, light, cheap and folds away to nothing. But its maximum height is 45cm, about the same as a dining chair. I mainly use 6" and larger Newts on tripods so I would need much higher than that but it might be OK with long fracs or small dobs. I suppose you could diy a fixed base for it but you would add weight and lose compactness.
  4. I would love to try NV but its well outside my budget. Is it likely to get significantly cheaper in the next few years? I guess I'm asking if there is something inherent in the design of NV tubes that means they will remain expensive , or is it that they are currently only manufactured by defence contractors who are used to charging their taxpayers £/$/€400 for a screwdriver?
  5. Hi Grant, Set the rig up and practice the star alignment procedure in daylight, indoors if necessary. A rough polar alignment is OK for testing, just level the mount, set the latitude & point the mount North. Then do say a 2-star alignment using Stellarium or such to see if the scope points in roughly the right directions. This should catch any gross errors caused by incorrect settings. Make sure to enter dates in American MM/DD/YYYY format. Enter leading zeroes in longitude, eg 001.xx not 1.xx Daylight Saving Time is still YES, but Time Zone is zero all year round. Good Luck.
  6. I temporarily fitted my original Mega/Ramps Onstep to a new (to me) EQ5 while building the Wemos/CNC version for it. Just needed to reconfig the software and fit new drive belts because the shaft spacings are different to the EQ3-2. Mechanically the EQ5 build is actually easier because the RA motor can be mounted on a single off-the -shelf angle bracket just like the Dec. Now the Mega/Ramps Onstep is back on the EQ3-2 which I now use for visual, having converted the mount, and configured the Onstep software to Alt/Az. You can't do any of that with the Synscan upgrade kits, which are now about £380 !!! Congrats on your build.
  7. For some reason that photo reminds me of "The Two Ronnies/ John Cleese" sketch. " I look up to him . . . . . . . . but I look down on him . . . . . "
  8. I assume you are controlling the mount with the Android app. You must tap "Initiallize/Park" and then "Set Time" each time you power up the controller or it will remember the time from the last session & probably be way out . Check your location lat/long.( If it is correct you don't have to enter it every time, it remembers last location.) Select your first alignment star, loosen the clutches and manually point the scope at the star, then tighten the clutches and press & confirm Align. Now select & attempt to Goto a second alignment star & note whether the RA and Dec move in the correct directions. If necessary reverse either or both motor directions. (just rotate the relevant 4-pin connector through 180 degrees to reverse a motor.) HTH
  9. I used 6mm spiral wrap like this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160956288816?hash=item2579be0f30:g:eEoAAOxyuR5TYLhD When setting time etc note that the time zone (GMT offset in Onstep-speak) is zero in the British Isles, all year round, even when we are on BST. That caught me out. Bet you can't wait to get it pointed at some stars!
  10. Yes, and it is even more precise if you de-focus the target to produce a large circular blob nearly as big as the fov. Then there will be no doubt when it is centered.
  11. You need the centre to centre shaft spacing & the Pitch Diameters of the two pulleys. Dimensions of GT2 pulleys (which have 2mm tooth pitch) can be downloaded from here; https://www.pfeiferindustries.com/timing-belt-pulley-pitch-diameter-outside-diameter-charts The belt length = ( 2 x shaft spacing ) + Pi ( (PD1 +PD2)/2 ) Say you calculate about 149mm you will need a 150mm, 75 tooth belt. Edit; @Gmx76 the above formula is approximate. There is a more accurate calculator here; https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/belt-length
  12. In the Arduino IDE, can you confirm that you have the correct version of the correct board software installed. The board you need is the "ESP Dev Module" and you must use version "1.0.4" In the IDE click "Tools" and you should see, board "ESP Dev Module" If so highlight it, click "Boards Manager" & scroll down to" ESP32" it should be "version 1.0.4", if not click "version" and select and install version 1.0.4. I don't know if this solves your problem but worth a check.
  13. Welcome back. I suggest you post this query on the Onstep forum. https://onstep.groups.io/g/main/topics One of the developers will usually respond in about 24 hours. Summarise your build hardware & specify exactly which ESP32 board & version number you are selecting in the Arduino board manager.
  14. I don't have a Vixen mount but I have a couple of clones and in both cases the safety screw is M4. M4 (coarse) is M4 x 0.7mm which is very close to the 36 tpi you have measured.
  15. Hi Richard, if you search the Stelle Doppie database; https://www.stelledoppie.it/index2.php?section=1 for, say Epsilon Lyra and then click on "Show" for one of the pairs say Eps1 Lyr you will get a wealth of data including earliest & most recent observations (STF denotes a Struve discovery); HTH
  16. There is an episode about light pollution in the CrowdScience series on BBC World Service (radio) at 20:32 BST tonight (3rd Sept). BBC WS is available in the UK on DAB/Freeview/Freesat etc etc. If elsewhere check your local listings. The episode will be available on BBC iPlayer "shortly after transmission". https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/w3ct1pqw Apparently the program is in response to a question from "Mo, an experienced stargazer from Salt Lake City". I wonder if he's an SGL member.
  17. Thankyou. Yes I glued a paper printout of an 8" mask to the lid as a template then marked each corner of each slot with a pinhole using a bradawl, and cut them with a craft knife and ruler. For appearance sake I should have removed the bobbles with sandpaper, but they don't affect the function.
  18. Bahtinov mask for 200mm scope made from lid of "Cadburys Roses" tub.
  19. Assuming you are using belt drives the GR1 values should reflect this. If using say 48T & 16T pulleys on an axis the relevant GR1 value would be 3.
  20. If you can set the latitude of your EQ1 to 90 degrees, so that the counterweight bar is horizontal, you've got yourself an Alt/Az mount. It will still be a somewhat wobbly mount on a bouncy tripod and you may still want to ditch it, but it will be easier to manually point it at a target than in EQ mode. I now use my EQ3-2 in Alt/Az mode for visual. It's much less stressful than in EQ configuration.
  21. My first computing lessons were in 1969 I think. We wrote out the programs in "Honeywell Timesharing Fortran" which was transfered to punched tape locally, before being transmitted to a mainframe somewhere in the USA , presumably by trans-Atlantic Teletype. I've no idea if it went by satellite or undersea cable. We got the results a week later. Having learned a bit of Fortran proved useful about a decade later since the BASIC used by the first PC's seemed to the user to be a simplified version of Fortran. Happy Days!
  22. Well I'm using that exact version of SkySafari 6 Plus on my Android 6.0 phone and it works fine. Also Google Play store says SS6.8.6.3 requires "Android 4 and up" not Android 8. Its a puzzle. Have you posted the problem on the Simulation Curriculum forum? https://support.simulationcurriculum.com/hc/en-us/community/topics
  23. 30cm is too short, I used about 1 metre leads which is plenty. Yes buy some 4 pin Duponts, & a selection of jumper wires will be handy for adding accessories. Yes, cut it off or unsolder it. You could keep it to use as a ballast resistor for a status LED if you add one. Get some of these if they didn't come with the drivers https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=pcb+0.1+jumper&_sacat=0
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