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Trikeflyer

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Everything posted by Trikeflyer

  1. I’m thinking I might like one of these 8inch CC so looking forward to the reviews. Steve
  2. Trikeflyer

    Books

    I have a copy of turn left at orion if your interested? steve
  3. Not all opticians use those machines - called phoropters - I am an optician and I use the traditional trial frame approach - God forbid anyone who comes to me thinks that we are torturing their eyes! Glad your optician sorted out the bifocal problem for you though. Steve
  4. Thanks for sharing that. Yes I might have to push the boat out and get one! Steve
  5. I’ve always fancied one of these. Never used one but if I was looking for a first one, I’d definitely have one of these https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p5506_TS-Concenter-2--colimation-eyepiece-for-Newtonian-Telescopes.html Steve
  6. Weirdly I’ve recently sold some Astro stuff and clearing out had made me feel better. I’m down to the essentials in eyepieces. I still have a couple of rarely used scopes like my Meade etx 125 but although they are optically perfect, they’re a bit beat up and when I consider selling I think they won’t fetch much money and so it’s better to keep them. I’m not saying buying new gear is not good for the soul, however at the same time, minimising can be just as satisfying.
  7. I have the Altair one. Can’t fault it. Great views, easy to use, as has been said - easy to use the back plate as a finder. Haven’t used the others so can’t compare but I can say that the Altair one does give great views. Steve
  8. Most scopes come with an attachment called a dovetail which attaches the scope to the mount. They are fairly universal. You might be able to pick up a used combination for your budget. If you had the manual mount it would be within your budget new - I think? Steve
  9. Based on your questions and answers, you have the basic pros and cons. The mak will be good on the moon and planets. I have a Meade etc 125 mak and find it poor for deep sky except globular clusters. As you say, no collimating required. The trouble I find is that the field of view is narrow, making it more difficult to find objects and due to the long f ratio, at higher magnification, the images can be very dark due to the small exit pupil these scopes produce. My personal view on this is to consider an achromatic refractor for your budget - either 100mm or 120mm. I think these will be better all round on deep sky nebula and clusters (galaxies are harder but with the apertures you are looking at, galaxies are harder full stop), moon and planets. They combine good field of view, no collimating, quick to cool down, easy to use and set up. I have mak, reflector and refractor scopes and if I had to lose them all except 1, I’d keep the refractor as an all round tool. Basic Photography is possible with a refractor. Consider the following options https://www.firstlightoptics.com/evostar/skywatcher-evostar-120-ota.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bresser-telescopes/bresser-messier-ar-102l-1000-refractor-ota.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bresser-telescopes/bresser-messier-ar-127l-1200-refractor-ota.html Then you have to consider the mount if you live in light polluted skies, I think goto makes sense, you will find more stuff, faster once you are set up. if you live in dark skies then maybe a manual mount can be ok. I prefer goto but there are many who don’t and this is personal choice. I think it can be frustrating searching for stuff and just not finding it when you’re a beginner. Also if The scope is mainly for visual use, I’d suggest avoiding equatorial mounts and going for alt az mounts. Here are some possibilities, bot goto and manual - just make sure that the weight limit of the mount is ok for the scope you choose - if the scope is a couple of hundred grams over, this won’t really affect the performance. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/alt-azimuth/sky-watcher-star-discovery-wifi-az-goto-mount-tripod.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/sky-watcher-az-gti-wifi-alt-az-mount-tripod.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/sky-watcher-az5-deluxe-alt-azimuth-mount.html Just my thoughts. Good luck.
  10. I have a parallogram Mount and it does make life easier. I found some plans on line. I got my local wood yard to supply, cut and drill some ash wood timber to the required lengths. Got the bolts off eBay. I assembled it and it works a treat. I am no diy expert so if I can do it anyone can! you get the plans off google - I used Astro toms plans - http://www.astro-tom.com/projects/binomount/binocular_mount.htm . I just took the cutting list and plans to the wood yard and they supplied, cut and drilled - all i had to do was assembly. Cost me about £120 all in and holds my 15x70 Apollo’s like a rock. Steve
  11. My two favourite eyepieces in my 12 inch revelation dob are my Morpheus 17.5mm and my Pentax XW 10mm. In fact they are my two favourite eyepieces full stop. I don’t think you will go far wrong with Morpheus range and they are really light weight compared to others. Steve
  12. I was writing this when Kyle replied but I think we are on the same page. The practical challenge of magnification is atmospheric conditions especially in the UK and exit pupil size limiting the image quality and contrast. The theory and the practice are in my experience, very much different. You can magnify an object as much as you like so in theory there is no limit but the problem is the quality of the image suffers in less than ideal seeing conditions. There are occasions - like the last few nights when the seeing is so good you can really magnify things - especially the moon - people with 12 inch scopes are talking about magnifications in the order of 400x or more but nights when you can achieve that without image degradation are few and far between in my experience. Anyway the main point I want to make is that there is a practical limit and it varies according to many factors. An 8mm without Barlow will give 150x - a nice working mag and an exit pupil of just over 1mm - again reasonable so on its own the 8mm will be a good choice anyway. With 2.5 barlow this will be your theoretical limit of 400x - you will probably count on one hand the amount of times you will actually use this combination. Regarding specific eyepieces, it’s tricky to recommend because there are many factors. You will most likely get many recommendations from people on here. Steve
  13. I agree with Louis. The polariser will be exaggerating any slight differences. Steve
  14. Can you post a picture of the rdf Steve
  15. Hey Stu - I know no Astro pun was intended and I know what you are saying but I couldn’t help but do a double take on your last sentence - just a thought - Is a little messier something like m71 . Compared to a big messier like M39 . Steve
  16. Welcome to the forum and thanks for the photo. Nice. I spent a good while looking at the moon last night too. Gylden valley stood out. Worth a look. Steve
  17. You can get cheaper 2inch eyepieces but I think for what you want to observe 1.25 inch Wide field eyepieces will be ok. You might need a coma corrector depending on the scope f ratio - below 5 normally benefit from coma correction. Steve
  18. I agree - I think Aperture is your friend on this one so I’d say biggest Truss tube Dob you can handle. Goto might also help you find them easier and dark skies will help enormously. I went to @ollypenrice’s place I France - magical trip and still my jaw drops at what I could see there - he has a 14in sct monster that is fixed and that was amazing on galaxies in a dark sky area. Personally I wouldn’t choose an SCT for this job unless it’s 14 inch plus, making it expensive and not that practical to move around. He had a 10 inch sct as well and comparing the views, we were both vastly underwhelmed by the 10 inch sct vs 14 inch - there was no comparison. Depending on your budget I’d say look at a truss tube David Lakehurst dob - used or possibly skywatcher 14 inch truss tube with goto. Steve
  19. I have an ES 2inch Barlow I’d be happy to sell. £80 plus postage. Great condition - endcaps but no boxPM me if you are interested and want pics. Steve
  20. I don’t think it’s as simple. There are many factors involved in your comment “easier to observe” it’s not just related to magnification. As others have said, scope collimation with Newtonian, aperture and light grasp, focal length and the ability to use longer focal length eye eyepieces to get the same magnification as short ones do in short scopes - generally longer focal length scopes are more forgiving when it comes to optical aberrations, eyepiece quality, scope cooling. Then there are factors you cannot control - sky darkness - all objects are easier under a dark sky, seeing and transparency - local atmospheric disturbances can cause degraded observing, altitude of the object - Lower elevation means more atmosphere to see through - making the object ‘worse’. With these many factors. Involved, it’s not straightforward as it might seem. Make sure the factors you can control are sorted and get to dark sky if you can. Then it’s down to ‘how the atmosphere is on the night’ Steve
  21. It was rubbish in the Midlands -glad you had a good night though steve
  22. the thread pitch looks like 1mm as best I can measure it and the internal diameter is 83mm. Steve
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