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Posts posted by Uranium235

  1. 18 hours ago, michaelmorris said:

    Sorry, if I came across being unfriendly -  it was not intended.  We really are a pretty relaxed bunch. ?

    Yeah we're pretty chilled.... though this image made me chuckle a bit :D


    • Like 1

  2. 18 hours ago, Adam J said:

    Yes it will work fine with the 130pds at f5. My astrodon are also specified to work with faster optics than my 130pds, they still work with it. 

    The 178 is overlooked due to its small area but it's a great chip no doubt better than the 183 everyone is buying size appart. I have a friend imaging with one and a ZS61 reduced to 280mm with great results. 

    Hmmm the 183 is the one I was considering getting when things improve - though I do have my heart set on the Atik 490 as the ideal match for short FL optics. But I doubt I would be buying a new one, trouble is I cant ever recall seeing one come up on the used market. Still, thats going to be about 18months down the line, so plenty of time to wait for the right moment.

    So, I'll just keep on delivering those curries and save up the extra dosh (even though its making my car stink...lol). Though it is pretty tiring doing that on top of a full time job.

  3. 4 hours ago, Adam J said:

    Well as a portion of the light cone is always at a lower speed (you can stop the lens down after all) I would think that it has got to also work at slower speeds too.

    Images on astrobin using it look very good.

    Personally I would think you are not getting the full advantage of the f2 optics with the standard filter or they would not bother making a high speed filter.

    I was thinking more along the lines of whether it would be alright on the 130pds @f5. There isnt really any point in stopping down the f2 lens becuase is performs so well wide open. 

  4. 3 hours ago, Adam J said:

    Am assuming that you will need a high speed filter for imaging at F2 or you will experiance reduced transmission. 

    The baader 7nm filters are OK at f2, there wasn't really any detectable problems at that speed. 

    It would probably be a problem with a narrower bandpass, but 7nm works well enough for me. Besides, high speed filters are hideously expensive! :) 

  5. Thanks all :) 

    For now it's just a change of methods, and short subs given the ASI 178 is CMOS. Though on an f2 lens, that shouldn't be a problem. 

    There might be an opportunity tonight for a couple of hours - depending on whether my new powers cable arrives today, and what time I finish work this evening.

    Also going to need a new Ha filter (1.25") at some point, since I've sold all my 2" NB filters as well.

    • Like 1

  6. Sadly, this will be my last image with the Atik 383L+ which has served me faithfully and flawlessly for some time (now sold).

    As for what the future holds, Im not sure as its going to be at least a couple of years before my situation improves - but I still have the ASI178MM Cool to use for now (big thanks to FLO), so Im hoping I can give that a really good run now that the nights are getting longer and colder and attempt to show what you can do with modest kit. It works pretty well with the Samyang 135mm, and is pretty good on the 130pds (although oversampled) on small targets....lol. at least there is absolutely no danger of overtesting the corrected field of either of those instruments.

    So... here it is.. a Cephus widefield taking in the Bubble, Cave and the Wizard sneaking in towards the bottom.


    25x240 (L) Samyang 135mm @f2 x2 panels

    Plus some recycled Ha from the Star 71


    Thanks for looking!  :)


    • Like 19

  7. Again, it is with much regret that I'm in the position of having to sell another piece of my imaging gear. This time its the Atik 383L+ mono CCD camera, which has served me flawlessly for the past few years.

    Anyone who has seen the images Ive taken with this camera can be in no doubt as to its capability - and its happy on focal lengths from 135mm, all the way up to 1000mm. Additionally, it comes with the Artemis capture suite - which is about as simple and intuitive as it gets when it comes to "set up and go" imaging.... in fact, its so easy to use even a 5 year old can operate it (and did). No silly cable types required, just a USB cable and standard centre positive power lead (both supplied).

    There are three motes close to the sensor, but they always calibrate out perfectly. And there is a minor mark on the cover glass, but that is clear of the sensor - and never appears in either the Light or Flat frames (so its not an issue). Given the cost of servicing which is about £50, I will knock that off the initial cost. The bonus being that all Atik servicing is UK based, so you're not shipping it to the other side of the planet. But, as it stands its all ready to rock anyway if you use calibration frames (which you should do regardless!).

    Example images are as follows:









    So, what is the cost of greatness?

    £860 (includes £50 discount)

    UK Sale Only

    Payment method(s): Cash, bank transfer or Paypal (buyer pays fees).

    Delivery: Either collection or courier (buyer pays delivery costs)

    As usual, the price is the price, no discounts or haggling please - its cheap enough as it is already ;) And if you're sitting on the fence considering whether you should be going with CMOS or CCD.... the CCD is the clear winner - hands down, no contest.


  8. It is with much regret that I am being forced into selling off a fair portion of my astro gear - starting off with a fine example of what the Star 71 Mk1 should have been for everone who brought one.

    Its a telescope I would describe as competition standard, and indeed was good enough for me (and my son) to get shortlisted for the IAPY two years in a row - so its an instrument with provenance. And anyone who has followed my exploits with it will know just how good it is:





    It comes with its soft carry case, and M48 > EOS adaptor. Condition-wise, there are a couple of light scratches on the powder coat finish but that does not affect its worth or performance.

    The price? £650

    The price is non-negotiable (no "best price" please... this isnt a car boot...lol).

    Either buyer collects, or I can deliver (within a sensible driving distance if buyer chips towards the fuel)

    Payment method(s): Cash, Bank transfer or Paypal (buyer pays fees).



    This is your one chance to own it, make no bones about it... this telescope is irreplaceable.

    • Like 1

  9. 2 hours ago, CCD Imager said:

    I have the ASI1600MM and because the sensor is closer to the front and the filter wheel very slim, I think I might be able to use this lens with my camera and be able to produce LRGB, Ha etc. Does any one know?

    I believe there are one or two people who use that camera and lens combination quite successfully... though their names have slipped my mind for the moment :) 

    Though I have to add, try not to go for the exact spacing of 44mm. Aim a little under that (43.5ish), that will ensure you avoid the hard infinity stop that lens has (some lenses can focus past infinity, but not that one).

    • Like 1

  10. 2 hours ago, swag72 said:

    This is a super mono and I am really surprised at how small the Cocoon is ? In fact I didn't even realise it was there!! What a cracking image and so well processed and stitched. I'd love to see the entire Bat..... but I imagine it's hard to know where to stop or in which direction to go ?

    Thanks Sara :) yep there are a lot of possibilities for this one. It's just a case of which way do I go? I'll try going right (or south in this case) and see what that gets me.

    Fortunately I have spare data from all areas of Cygnus,  so it wouldn't be too hard to perk up areas of interest.

    • Like 1

  11. It seems to have taken ages to put this one together, given other things that have been going on in the background (non-astro stuff).

    But this week Ive been able to add a couple more panels to make a 2x2 mosaic, though processing was tougher than expected due to the sheer volume of stars in the image. Dont try a star count with DSS... I tried it and it didnt like it...lol.

    Noteable areas of interest are the Flying Bat, IC1396 and the Cocoon (down in the bottom right corner) - which have been boosted with some Ha data from the Star71. Another unexpected issue was the amount of cropping I had to do because of sky curvature (must be a consequence of imaging near the zenith) - its definitely not down to camera rotataion becuase that is mechanically fixed.


    25x240 (L) x4 panels

    Samyang 135mm @f2, Atik 383L+, NEQ6

    Thanks for looking :)



    Fullsize: Here

    • Like 17
    • Thanks 1

  12. Poster size projects arent just made up of one image - but a series of them all stitched together as a mosaic. So if you have a small chip, but need to cover a large object - just mosaic it.

    Bigger sensors with more (or more and larger) pixels produce a wider field of view if used on the same optics, and cuts down the need for mosaics. For instance, on the same optics - an camera with a resolution of 1040x960 is roughly A4 if printed out. While an APS-C type sensor or CCD like the 383L+ which has roughly 3300x2500 pixels (just smaller that APS-C) will produce an image that would just about print on A2.

    Going further than that, if you use the large sensor and mosaic it - you end up with images that if printed at pixel scale would easily fill an entire wall.

  13. It also depends on what CPU is in there and what OS you are using. If its the new generation of CPUs (ie: Ryzen), then it will not accept anything less than W10. You can get W7 on there, but its a major hassle to get it done (I gave up and went with W10, which turned out quite nicely).

    W10 Pro is dirt cheap, but I would advise you install it from a DVD as the the MS installer version is a bit hit and miss. You can download the image from MS and burn it to a DVD.

  14. 49 minutes ago, Anthonyexmouth said:

    using a canon 760d. didnt think there was much trailing in the raw image, posted a raw in a previous post, have a look and let me know. i do know its not focused very well .

    Might be worth taking a look at the sensor charts then, so you can work out what might be the best ISO for you.


    Dont worry about star colour at the moment (something which a high ISO will wipe out).

    Edit:  just noticed the camera isnt listed on sensorgen, so you might need to do a bit of google pestering to see if anyone has performed tests on the sensor.

  15. I flocked mine (including the drawtube), made a cover for the bottom and use a flocked dewshield. Also I take flats with the dewshield in place and use a light source not too bright, and slightly backed off (a large monitor helps). Also helps to diffuse the light a bit more with copier paper -  epecially important if your monitor or other light source has a slightly reflective screen/cover.

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