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Uranium235

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Everything posted by Uranium235

  1. Ya... just got the MaxDSLR, another thumbs up to FLO for speedy service. And... its perfect! :eek: Its loads better than the one I was using as its even lower profile and it will let in a lot more light, which will reduce vignetting... chuffed to bits M45 is going to get a right beating tomorrow nite
  2. Wow... thanks for the interesting and informative answers to my query, was able to follow most of it well enough, even though physics inst really one of my strong points. Its interesting that electromagnetism has a repulsive and attractive nature (so over a great enough distance, its effect is zero), and that gravity is only attractive. So, what about the cumulative effect of time? Assuming gravity eventually wins over a massive timescale (like over googolplexes of years) - then doesnt that mean the universe will eventually disappear up its own backside into one massive black hole? (and then possibly start all over again) Its not as if black holes think "hmmm ive had enough to eat for today, time for a diet", nope... its just going to get bigger and bigger. Of course, im just speculating
  3. A question for the eggheads, but Im guessing I will get the standard scientific answer "we dont know". I was watching a promo trailer of a new documentary series for the BBC which airs on sunday where the presenter describes gravity as the weakest force in the universe. And in my mind, I just couldnt see that. I know there are other forces (ie: Atomic and Radiation, im sure there are more). But if gravity is so weak, then why dont (normal) stars fly apart? (where gravitational forces are equal to nuclear forces) And why black holes? (where gravity is king). Is gravity is related to mass? (thats how I see it), as im sure if we all lived on Jupiter we wouldnt be saying gravity is so weak because we wouldnt be able to move for being squished by it!
  4. Im wanting to use the 2" Neodymium filter to help extend my exposure times in this light polluted area. I first used the ep to take moon shots (which actually turned out ok), and then tried my luck on m42 but i didnt expect that much coma. As was mentioned earlier, its probably better to save the ep method for planets. Anyways, ive ordered the maxdslr adapter now, so next time its back to prime focus - hope it does the trick!
  5. At prime focus, im having no problem getting focus with the DSLR (a few mm to spare). Its just with the bits I have there is no option to insert a 2" filter between the secondary and the camera. That MaxDSLR looks like the best bet to solve the filter issue, it looks to be more or less the same size the 2" T-adapter I use to do prime focus with at the moment (the one you get with the scope). Ordering it asap.
  6. Hmmmm coma eh? Will the MPCC fix this? And does it have a filter thread?
  7. Here ya go.... the full horror
  8. Hiya, Just a quick question on imaging with a hyperion ep (17mm). I gave it a go last week (on m42) but the results from my f5 newt were poor. Only 50% of the field was useable, anything outside that got ugly real fast (stars became streaks). Its a not tracking prob, otherwise all the stars would be streaks. Would i get better results with an f5 if i removed the smythe part of the ep? Or should i just sack the idea of using a newt & buy an equinox APO? The newt is fine @ prime focus, except there is no way i can use the 2" filter (or any other filter) without a lens or barlow. Hmm i feel this is the start of an expensive and slippery slope! Lol...
  9. Already on the case mate, Ive managed to safely mount it in the focuser with the help of a 2" extention tube. Ive also done it without the 2" ext too, but the primary group of lenses on the Hyperion would be way too close to the secondary mirror to get focus I think (not enough out travel). Thats a shame tho cos the 2" extention I have doesnt have the same 2" safety ring that you get on the EP, so ive gotta be super-careful and make sure everything is tight - it would be a bit of a wounder to have the ep and cam fall out and smash into a thousand pieces! Its looking like clear skies tonight (if a little windy), so I will give it a test drive with the Y mask and see how it performs. Oh btw, have I done the mask right? Thanks for the help man
  10. Thanks glowjet... well explained! Then I guess I could just print off a massive "Y" from Word or Photoshop? And if that fails, I will literally just draw it and then print it off. I know one thing though, its going to be hell of a lot quicker to make! On a side note, will a mask work with a QHY5/PHD? It would be a nice option to be able to fine tune my guidescope for better tracking.
  11. Is there an online generator for the Y mask? As im not sure of the angles involved for that one (3x120deg?)... I wouldnt know where to start! If anyone has made one for a 6", a printable template would be most useful Thanks for the suggestion, I will have a go at it.
  12. I will be taking delivery of a Hyperion 17mm EP in couple of days, and ive just one question in regard to Eyepiece Projection using my DSLR. I already have the fine tuning rings, adapters and T2 extenders ready, but I having trouble with the tricky subject of focus. If I were to focus the EP perfectly without the camera, lock the focuser, then carefully re-attach the EP with the camera at the basic lens > CCD distance of 50mm - would I need to re-focus? This is because using a Bahtinov mask through my cams viewfinder is a bit of a depressing experience... but it works great with an EP. Im finding myself having to mess about taking subs before i start anything useful - just to check the focus.... iffy collimation isnt helping either (so I ordered a laser collimator too). Thanks in advance
  13. Bear in mind too that if you were to order from a non EU country, you may be subject to extra taxes and the risk of damage or theft. Better safe than sorry dude
  14. Hmmm, I would have thought a 1gb lan would have sorted your refresh rate out still, its not so bad only having to go out to change targets! Ahhh... the day when its fully remote would be a good one! I guess that figures out as the limitation of the method, not unless you can tweak things a little (but ive no idea on how to do that - yet). Anyways, im gonna set up soon so we will see if it all works as planned.
  15. Yeah, the windows remote control prog is what ive been using so far. This machine is running XP64 and the lappy in the shed is on Vista and ive hand no issues so far (fingers crossed). Youre right that the signal strength isnt great at the bottom of the garden, to fix that i will need to place the router nearer the window (which means buying more extention cables), then rig the Camera control pro to allow enough time for the file transfer before trying to take the next sub (probably 10-15 seconds).
  16. Cool I might try it tonight then, so now I can do AP and keep the GF happy at the same time
  17. A strange place to have an idea... the shower...lol. In a bid to further automate or remotely control things ive had the idea of using Remote Assistance to enable me to keep an eye on PHD while im indoors. Ive already been able to remotely connect to the laptop and view the PHD graph and contol the D60 settings remotely (using camera control pro). I know I wont be able to see whats captured in the main PHD window, but it does allow me to see whats happening on the graph - so if it did lose tracking for some reason, I would be able to see it from the PC indoors. It would be nice if i could get it to automatically beam the subs back to the PC indoors, but im only on wireless G so the time it would take to upload would be way too long for my taste (maybe time for an upgrade?). Has anybody else tried this yet?
  18. np dude Always happy to share the knowledge!
  19. Yea, M31 is your best bet for viewing from urban locations - but thats about it Good LP map link above too... im in a magenta/white zone @ the moment - but will be moving to a yellow zone in 3 weeks (with a dark blue zone only 20min drive away!!) cant wait!!!
  20. Hey... Im the same height and had exactly the same problems (always turning the scope in its rings) until I tried a different way of setting up. Try this: 1) Setup the mount to go as high as poss (and level it) 2) Before you mount the OTA, rotate it in the tube ring until the focuser is pointing down - basically so its in line with your dovetail bar (see photo). 3) Mount it all up, then check the balance (marking the balance point with masking tape for future reference). When you first fire the system up, you obviously wont be able to look through it until you slew to your first target. But once you do - it all becomes clear, perfect height! The focuser might be upside-down sometimes, but dont let that bother you. Honestly, there isnt one occasion where ive had to rotate things to get a better view since adopting this method. The only drawback is sometimes the finderscope gets a bit hard to see through (thats only cos I use the finderscope on the ST80), but the EP should be fine most of the time - and if your GoTo is set up well enough (if you have it) then you wont really need the finderscope. Dont forget the masking tape! An invaluable tool for the AA
  21. I tried mine last night, it worked a treat with the EP. But when I tried it with the cam at prime focus I couldnt see any spikes through the viewfinder. Would it be ok to focus on Mars first, and then slew to my target? As at the moment, Mars is one of the brightest things in the sky from my location. I could just take some short subs with the mask on to judge the focus, but it would be a pain to have to go back and forth to the laptop to check the pattern.
  22. "Diverse" is an understatement Ive found its a mix of quite a few things including: Astronomy, maths, computers, electrics, photography as well as the physical demands it can sometimes place on you (hence the need to automate things). If I get any more bright ideas, I will be sure to bring them here first Share the knowledge, thats what I say!
  23. I managed to get out for a couple of hours last night and test it... lol... it works! In addition I also fitted a switch that was salvaged from an old PSU (as I found crossing wires is a bit risky in terms of accidental triggering). Also Camera control pro worked a treat, its cool for automatically taking 30s subs, darks and bias - just punch in how many you want, start it, then find a comfy chair to rest those weary bones The only downer was the cloud.... hmmm... a black mark for the Met office...fail.
  24. I think youre right peter, the S must be something more than just a temp sensor. I need more info on that tho to be sure if its worth attempting. Mines an EN-EL9... and at the end of the day it might be just less hassle to change the battery (very carefully)
  25. Ive had a look at my battery, its got + - and S. So the "s" is the temp sensor? does this need to be connected to anything to get it to work when using a DC supply? I will have a look @ maplins in a bit to see what adapters are available, there should be something near the 7.4v mark (or variable). Addendum: Found something here, 7.5v 1200mA - should do the job nicely. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=32754
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