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Uranium235

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Everything posted by Uranium235

  1. Here ya go: Canon Digital Rebel XSi 450D, 1000D, 500D IR Filter Removal Modification- Page 1 -Configuration & Preparation -by Gary Honis If you follow it **to the letter** you should be fine, but from experience here are a few tips: 1) Use gloves when handling the CMOS sensor and filters and use dust free containers for the bits you remove - that will save having to re-open it to shift a speck of dust. Mines still not 100% dust free, but thats only in the in the far corners so no real need to get it open again. 2) Get a good, magnetised posidriver - otherwise you will be putting some of the screws in whilst on your back... especially the one under the left side of the viewfinder. 3) Use toothpicks/cocktail sticks for the ribbon connectors. 4) Go slowly.... its not a race. If you get it working the results are noticeable and instant, a good camera becomes a great camera. The Ha sensitivity is increased by 5x meaning you can do some lovely nebula work. Personally i cant wait for M42 again now ive done the mod
  2. Are those diffraction spikes real or fake? I didnt think you got those with an ED80 (well, I dont anyway!).
  3. Not sure whether you saw it when it was posted on the BBC science pages about a week ago - but the PLANCK telescope data has now been released. Basically it seems most of what we could see is shrouded in dust & gas from our own galaxy which also rises quite high from the galactic plane. Nice picture, but no useful scientific data can be drawn from it (yet) PLANCK telescope: BBC News - Planck telescope reveals ancient cosmic light
  4. Thanks Mick I know, I only popped in for a bowl of cornflakes - came back and the sky was suddenly full of cloud!!! Bah... Met office wrong again. Hopefully when the weather cools, the quality of the subs will improve as they will be closer matched to the temperature of my stock darks. Was kinda looking forward to getting my first M31 last night too (as thats one I missed last year), I guess that can wait till next time At the moment it feels like a case of "too many targets, not enough darkness".
  5. Finally, ive been able to add to my ngc7000 subs! Though its a shame I only managed another 9x300s before the cloud rolled in. I reckon i had enough subs (19) to use entropy mode in DSS and the result is looking much better than my first effort, got it the right way up this time too! NGC7000: 19x300s (plus dark, bias & flat) SW ED80 Pro + Modded 1000d Thanks for looking!
  6. Thanks Peter, I will update it as soon as I get the chance. Not sure whether to stick with 300s or throw some 600s shots into the mix. Ive compared the image to others and yep, it should be rotated by 90 clockwise. The framing is a little off too as im missing part of the left edge of the nebula (if it were rotated that is), yikes what a monster it is!
  7. Decided to go for this one as suggested by Billy, I had work the next day so I only managed to get 10x300s. The seeing was average to good with the odd passing cloud, im very pleased with the results but im not sure its the right way up. Something tells me it should be rotated clockwise by 90deg? Cant wait to add more to this one NGC7000 North american nebula 10x300s (plus flats, darks, bias) SW ED80 Pro + Modded 1000d Thanks for looking!
  8. Cheers Peter, I will add those little beasties to my "to do" list
  9. I know.... Im so excited I dont even know where to start! Will it show any extra detail on M101? It would be nice to update my m101 with a few extra shots.
  10. A tricky thing to get is M16, the horizon was a little murky last night so I only managed 6 shots before the high cloud made it not worth continuing. It was my first try with the self-modded 1000d too (rear filter removed). Lol... Im at the stage where I can strip one down in 15min now, mostly due to the fact that I had to get it open again due to having a few of specks of dust on the underside of the first filter. There are still 2 specs there, but theyre near the edge of the frame so I will leave it be. M16: 5x300s 1x600s Thanks for looking ED80 + 1000d
  11. Hiya, Ive just completed my homebrew 1000d mod (2nd filter removed), not exactly an easy thing to do as ive just found out (damn ribbon cables never go back in properly!!). Will I need to take a new set of flats now its modded? Cant wait to try it out
  12. Yeah, a head torch with red lights is dead useful as it will leave your hands free. You can pick them up at tesco for about a tenner - usually by the camping equipment. Oh, and while youre there get a foldaway chair, it will rest your weary back.
  13. Even if it still does work, you may still need a replacement rather than removal to protect from dust. Dont know if youve seen this page before, replacement is a must if youre going to do any imaging with a fraccy. Astronomiser - Automated Astronomy and AstroImaging Solutions
  14. Well pointed out... Its also toxic as well as corrosive, so it needs a good clean.
  15. Thats a capacitor, and judging by the gunk all over your pcb it must have popped for some unexplained reason. If you knew what size capacitor it was then you could have a go at changing it yourself, but see what ovl say first.
  16. mmmmmm.... mak newt Another bonus on that one is that it wont attract so much dust to the primary mirror (unlike a standard newt which is a dust magnet). But once you add a guidescope along with all the other gubbins its going to be rather bulky and not exactly grab & go. Personally, I think you should have both (an 80mm APO and a newt)... but which one first?? Ahhh.... Its a tough choice, but I think the 80ED wins hands-down in terms of clarity and ease/speed of use. The 150p/200p are quite popular (now with better focuser), maybe you could bung a APO fraccy on top and get the best of both? In any case, you will need to set aside at least another £500 if you intend to start imaging seriously (dslr, guidecam etc...).
  17. Thanks guys, in the end I took a look at the Maplin PTFE (teflon) grease and it was rated down to -20 (not that its ever going to get that cold!). It was a little thinner than I expected though (came as a spray type), but after application it seemed to stick ok. I saw that superlube stuff at RS components, but decided with maplin as I could get the job done on the same day (while I still have time). Astroboys CG5 strip-down guide was excellent, I followed it to the letter and the whole DEC arrangement seems to move a lot more freely now with the clutch disenganged (including under gravity). The only downside..... I got a bit of it in my eye, doesnt half sting a bit!
  18. Hiya, Just looking for info on the most suitable grease to get for the cg5 gt. Im going to have a proper go at stripping down the dec axis as ive noticed it still cant rotate 360deg without resistence in parts. It might explain why I have so much hassle when guiding East of the meridian. Ive been looking at the maplin website and as there is a store in town, it would only take me 20min to nip down and get some. There are a few choices though, but one thing is for sure - it must be able to cope with the cold. Choices are as follows: 1) White lithium grease (min temp -10) 2) Maplin silicone grease with PTFE (min temp not stated) 3) Multi-purpose silicone grease (min temp -5) Personally, I think it should be the PTFE stuff. But since its min temp is not stated I thought it might be best to check with you guys first. Thanks in advance for the info!
  19. Thanks Peter, Im aware of the lack of FOV, thats the trade off between DSLRs and CCDs I guess. An 0.5 focal reducer would help there, but the CCD is a tool that I could probably see myself using on smaller targets. Big stuff like M31/42/45 will always be DSLR as there is no chance on earth that id be able to afford a CCD of similar size. I could stretch to an Atik 320E, but that depends on how generous santa is this year If not, it would probably be the Titan as its has the lowest readout noise (5e) of any similarly priced camera (or I might be lucky & grab a 2nd hand bargain). Ive yet to see any results from the titan yet despite having a mooch on google.
  20. Thanks Olly, thats exactly what I needed to know At what focal ratio did you get it? If its taken you only 5 min to get more than what took me 110 min - then somethings up. Either my scope (f7.5) or my imaging device is way too insensitive/slow. Did you get that in RGB as well? I quite like some of the monochrome Ha work thats been posted recently, I think the absence of colour is no big deal when you see amount of detail on offer. I did pause last night when I saw a DSI Pro II mono cam for £200 2nd hand, but Ive heard they can get a bit hot & noisy so I might hold out for an Atik (maybe this years xmas prezzie). Which reminds me, has anyone posted anything taken with the new Atik Titan yet? Maybe its a bit soon. Heh, baby slept nearly all night last night - he seems to have quickly developed a liking for our bed and not his!
  21. Youre right so far Steve he seems to sleep a lot more in the daytime. Taking the kit out last night though was officially sanctioned..lol. No doubt I will probably pass out on the sofa later on as we managed only 4 hours sleep between us. But there was a nice moment earlier on where he sparked out for an hour laying on my chest. Ive got the week off and Im already on the case with the basics, went out and brought a load of stuff this morn as well as looking after the garden (if her plants die, I die...lol). The only thing Im not going to be able to do is prepare her traditional Chinese confinement food - good thing her sis is here to help with that!
  22. Thanks guys, I will get more data on it when I get the chance (whenever that may be!), maybe in a week or 2. But the nights are closing in now, so every passing day brings more darkness (yay!). When I got in last night 2am baby & mum were still up, we're just trying to find the best way of getting him off to sleep at he mo. But since he's only 2 days old, it will probably take a while before things quieten down. Wish I could fast forward a few years tho...lol, one things for sure - he wont have any excuses to be bored! I was just thinking... would I get this object quicker with a CCD? Maybe it should be another thread to discuss DSLR v CCD in terms of speed.
  23. Hiya, Last night, despite the moon and some high cloud making for poor(ish) seeing I managed to grab a few subs of Caldwell 4 (NGC7023). Its the first Caldwell object ive acually got a pic of, Its not great but come the new moon I will add a few more subs. Stretched it to death as well to try and get some more of that nebulosity, hence the noise. Might have to take a break for a while now as ive just become a dad for the first time. Soooo tired! NGC7023 10x300s, 6x600s darks, flats & bias ED80 DS pro + unmodded 1000d Thanks for looking
  24. A big, sturdy cardboard box with handles does the job for me. All my cables, PSUs, EPs and other bit are in there (space for the laptop too). It also serves as the table for the laptop. After a bit you will devise a routine, mine is now down to 5 trips. 1, Power 2, mount + cg5 3, weights 4, scope(s) + dslr (permanently attached) 5, astro box and foldaway chair Optional 6, Cuppa (or beer)
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