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Mr niall

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About Mr niall

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  1. You'll get fab results all the way up to 200mm with the star adventurer - the 50mm lens is perfect. If its the one I'm thinking of it works better at about f2 than wide open though. The SLT102 is great for lunar and planets but the focal length is much too long for general purpose deep sky photography so it doesnt mean you are doing anything wrong its just not the best scope for that sort of application. There's a thread in the imaging section for users of the star adventurer that showcases what you can do. But yes - you can achieve some great results with just the dslr and lenses you have already.
  2. Hello there Omegon Minitrack - bought about 6 weeks ago for my son as he expressed an interest in getting into astrophotography, so thought it would be nice for us both to have a setup we could use. He has now decided that "it's a bit complicated" and didnt realise the work involved, so we'll stick with visual for now! Essentially new - used in anger twice. Quite impressive actually - heavier than it looks and was banging out 90 second subs at 50mm with only the vaguest of polar alignments (that was LP limited - no doubt it could go much longer) All original parts and original packaging included. £65 plus postage - about £5 tracked I'd guess, its a small box but a surprisingly heavy unit as its all metal.
  3. That’s handy - but I think you’d still want a Barlow for the moon, I’ve shot it at 1200mm through a small mak and it’s still relatively small...
  4. That would certainly work well for lunar - yes you just remove lens and fit the t2 ring as if it’s a lens. Then screw the Barlow into the inside of the t2 lens. Dead easy.
  5. While I agree with the posts above I'd have to say that the best instructional tool I used was the book Turn Left At Orion - as it provides more advice for star hopping and using visual references than anything else I've seen. In fact, I don't think there's very many things out there that do a really good job of teaching you how to get around as well as that book.
  6. That's a great shot - I actually don't think I've ever seen Bode's galaxy this close up before - usually used to it being a teeny teeny grey smudge through my eyepiece (also a pleasant experience of course!)
  7. No its sold its in the teeny tiny bit under "edited" haha
  8. I used that exact setup for a while! I managed to get 60sec at 300mm with a good polar alignment. Generally speaking though you should be aiming for at least 90 to 120 secs to start picking up dust lanes on M45; M42 I've never actually imaged but I think (others may need to verify this) is that you want to take two separate sets of exposures - one as long as possible, and another of reasonably short (15 to 20 secs) to fill in the inevitably blown out core that you get from a long exposure times. General advice for anything is aim for at least an hour of data if possible. ISO - I find ISO 1600 still very low on noise, but unless conditions are really good I don't often use it as light pollution around my house totally obliterates anything above 60 secs more often than not so I generally use 800. But, as with all these things; you just have to play and find what works for you.
  9. Oh, well thats put a spanner to my plans then! I had high hopes for the "comet registration" mode in DSS. Looks like its done something though. I suppose a composite is possible? But then you'd have a big smear where your comet was supposed to be on your star layer and your comet layer would obviously be too small to overlay over the top. This challenge could be one for the sketchers!
  10. Hi Peter thanks for the link. My goal at the moment is 60 secs at 50mm, if I can get that to work then will think about 60 secs at 100 which I’m led to believe is plausible but perhaps pushing the envelope. Maybe 30 secs would be a more realistic target! I’m plagued with terrible LP to the south and west so 30 secs may be the max either way!
  11. No I reckon at least 45 minute exposures. May have to step the ISO down from 800 to 400
  12. Its arrived.... Came via UPS in a box easily big enough for a HEQ5 head... And it was nicely packaged in a slightly smaller box inside that. Comes with a drinking straw (or polar finding sight tube, I cant decide) and a rather substantial piece of metal that serves only as an adaptor for swapping over the 1/4 or 3/8 head. Its a little bit bigger than I expected and feels really substantial and heavy in the hand. All nice metal construction and certainly looks the business. But doesn't really come with any literature or instructions - had to download these from the omegon website (although in fairness there is an excellent suite of supporting literature that is generally very engaging and useful) I still have absolutely no idea how the little tension spring thingies at the bottom work, despite the diagrams. Hopefully it'll be clearer in practise. And yes, the little timer really does sound exactly like an egg timer and yes it really really does have a little egg timer buzzer thing when it runs out. Cracking! (pun intented). Obviously with it being Britain, first light will no doubt be sometime around March.... But I am determined to catch 46p even if it means hiring a helicopter to get above the perma clouds. More to follow
  13. I’ve watched that a few times. It’s really good. But having said that I don’t really agree with the point he’s making about accuracy. If your aim is simply finding stuff then I think they work great. I was using a skymax 90 on a tabletop EQ1 in this fashion for about 8 months and saw M13, M2, M11, M15, the double cluster and many others for the first time just using this method - so it cant be that bad!
  14. Yeah, they can be a bit vague on an eq1 or 2 but for brighter stuff it’s actually quite fun zooming around with just a piece of paper and some numbers to direct you (if you like that sort of thing!)
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