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LightBucket

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  1. 1 hour ago, tooth_dr said:

    I processed a few subs of Leo on Wednesday night, using the frames listed below.  The camera is a QHY9 mono with the KAF-8300 mono sensor.  I used Astrophotography Tool (APT) for data collection and Astro Pixel Processor (APP) for processing.  I used the 'CCD aid tool' in APT to calculate a mean ADU of about 26k for my flats.  This resulted in an exposure of 8 seconds.  In my stacked image from APP, the outside of the image is bright and some dust bunnies are visible.  Any suggestions of what to try next?

    LIGHTS: 24 x 300s

    DARKS: 30 x 300s

    FLATS: 30 x 8s

    DARK FLATS: 30 x 8s

    BIAS: 30 x 0.01s

    Hi,

    I am just getting to grips with APP, so can’t really help at this point, but am looking for some CCD data  to test with as my own data does not have flats I have only used darks till now...so if you are willling to let me Have a go with your data, maybe I can help...

    Have you not got your Atik 383 anymore..?

  2. 34 minutes ago, RayD said:

    That bit that is overhanging the edge is a problem mate.  If the felt is 1mm thick, then that is 2mm you are losing off the closing distance.  This is why I said earlier cut that bit off, it shouldn't be there.

    To my point you are referring, what I was trying to say, is if the new felt is thicker then the rings won’t be closing as far and the overhang may not be an issue, and just to try it first, unless you need that space to full tighten, then remove..mine have about a 3mm gap when fully tightened down so mine do have the felt all the way to the end, as it’s not an issue...

    Putting new felt on about a mm thicker does make a big difference to how much the rings will then close up.. :)

    Hope that explains better.. :)

  3. 22 minutes ago, RayD said:

    If the felt was wrapped over the ends where the clamps close then that's not ideal anyway. I'd start by cutting that bit off

    Hmmm, I would t cut off until  you Have tried it, as you may not need to if it is thicker, and I am not sure the rings are supposed to touch anyway, (at the catch, not against the tube...lol) as you have nowhere to go, as it were...

    this is what I use, the large square at the back, is superb for cutting up for tube  rings, about 1mm thick, non compressible (or very little) and good self adhesive 

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hyfive-Floor-Protector-Felt-Pads-Furniture-Floor-Protectors-Self-Adhesive-125pc/352312370778?epid=12018098150&hash=item520774265a:g:ew0AAOSwTmtatDHB

    • Confused 1
  4. 12 hours ago, souls33k3r said:

    Slight update. Mentioned the issue to FLO yesterday and got home tonight and found the felts have arrived.

    That was quick but the only issue is, no instructions on how to put them on so I’m a bit lost here. I don’t know if I’m supposed to put these felts on by removing the old ones or over the top of the existing ones ?

    Well if they are the same thickness as old ones then they must go over the top, or you won’t gain anything, if thicker, then replace....that would be my assumption :) but agreed, there should be some guidance..

  5. 1 hour ago, souls33k3r said:

    Right so came home just a few minutes ago and can confirm that the nylon washers are not sandwiched between the tube rings. Will speak to FLO tomorrow.

    nylon.jpg.df0402d0d06e3e9851bf9c58c75aadda.jpg

    Although these scopes are amazing, I think the rings need a little tinkering with, I have read about this before, the felt is too soft and too thin, re do that and you will be fine, put a slightly thicker one on, one that won’t compress as much.. :)

    • Like 1
  6. 11 hours ago, vlaiv said:

    Let's see what would be guide resolution here.

    Lodestar has 8.4um pixels (actually 8.2x8.4um, but let's take "coarser" one).  Not sure which one is your guide scope, but let's go with 60mm FL 225mm - that one seems to be 60mm AA guide scope.

    That would give 7.7"/pixel guide resolution - way small I would say. Let's go with safe 1/16 precision - that means that centroid algorithm is capable of determining star position to ~0.48" accuracy. Not good at all - star can appear as if +/- 0.48" away then it really is.  Depending on your target RMS, you want that number to be at least 3-4 times smaller than target RMS.

    So if you for example want 0.6" RMS (and that would be quite doable with modded / tuned EQ6) - you need above precision to be something like 0.15" or 3 times less than it is now. So with Lodestar (which has large pixels) you want about three times more guide focal length - or about 675mm. Other option would be to get new guide cam with small pixels - something like 1/3 of Lodestar. That means camera with less than 3um pixels - something like 2.4um or 2.9um (but first would be better).

    I wonder why would you have a lack of guide stars. Such large pixels should be really sensitive to stars (almost whole star fits onto one pixel). What sort of guide exposure do you use?

    Btw, in order to have something like 0.6" RMS on EQ6 - you need to really tune the mount (besides belt mod) - this means almost 0 backlash, very stable tripod or pier, and very smooth running mount (good bearings, proper greasing and tension on anything inside).

    Thanks for that, interesting..

    Is this for imaging with 80mm frac or 8” SCT...or does it not make a difference... (sure it does) :)

  7. I have an EQ6 Pro belt modded...

    The issues I have have been varied, lack of stars, just general bad guiding graphs with too many corrections and yet PA is excellent, just not happy.

    I have used an OAG in the past with the SCT but just could not get on with it..

    What sort of problems would I get with the size of the pixels on the lodestar on the 60mm guide scope, (not really tried that) as it will give a large pixel scale, and don’t thing that would be too good, also would a 60mm guide scope guide the 8” SCT ok, or is it a bit small..?

    :)

  8. Hi all

    i have been using an Altair 80mm maxiguider for a couple of years now for guiding  both my 8” SCT and my 80mm frac, with a standard lodestar guide cam, but to be completely honest never been that happy with the guiding, so am lookimg for some advice..

    For my two set ups is there a one fits all in the case of guiding, if so what combo of guidescope and camera, I realise the lodestar pixels are pretty big and wonder if that is part of my issues...

    I have both the 80mm Altair maxiguider and the 60mm version too.

    imaging camera is Atik 383L+ mono, imaging scopes are 8” SCT @ f7, plus 80mm triplet @ f6, (not both together..lol) 

    Thanks in advance..:)

    William 

     

  9. 1 hour ago, stash_old said:

    no problem ?

    As RPI has a deal wih Realvnc you are allowed to install realvnc on any o/s on RPI (as far as I know) so I use it on Stretch and Ubuntu mate with no problems.

    You cant reinvent the wheel so really the only difference is Realvnc Server runs as a "service" on RPI while if i read Novnc the latter is just a Client and connects to any remote desktop server as it runs I guess like TeamViewer via Web sockets and HTML. So where I need to use any VNC client (realvnc,tightvnc etc) I have to install it first on the client end - NoVNC just uses existing HTML Web Browser saves installing a client.

    Realvnc has been around 20yrs but of late have started to charge for none cloud connecing software (Clients are free) excep RPI which as I say have a deal on the server lic.

    RealVnc is very fast (haven't run against with Novnc) and you can transfer file between client and server through its own protocol - sometimes useful.

    What sort of Frame rates are you getting on your CCD's and what are you storing you frames on (local or remote)

     

    Sorry Andyb90 for hyjacking thread but it is connected to "requirements" - let us know if you object

     

    Well as for frame rates, my cameras are for long exposures, so frame rates don’t come into it...I don’t use it for planetary imaging on,y deep sky...

    noVNC runs from the web browser..! So would RealVNC be faster..??

    I store images on my client machine.. :)

  10. 1 hour ago, stash_old said:

    Hi @light bucket I was really asking why giorgio was using Skysafari and not just Kstars - i was expecting the same answer from him - just being nosey ?

    I too use Skysafari ,on my really old Sony xperia phone ,when using my Indi Grab and Go set up but very rarely when back at base - just use Kstars/RealVNC from nice warm man cave !!!! Never had performance issues,hence the question, except networking which had nothing to do with Remote working it was RPI3 (not 3+) weak 2.4ghz signal which I cured. Even have used remote desktop when using RPI Zero W using std Raspbian with Indiserver installed to control DSLR/mount with no performance problems as I disconnect after starting my scripts the Realvnc goes to sleep - yes I could use SH or Web service but too lazy to set up  ?

    However the CCD performance does intrigue me as some say its too slow while others seem to be quite happy (or dont say anything) - hence that question using his lovely QSI CCD (drooling ? ) CCD - wondered what the performance was like on a RPI3/USB2 set up. 

    ?

    Yes, sorry to but in... :)

    Well i use two Starlight Xpress Cameras, My OSC is an SXVR M25c which runs really well, and my mono is an SX H18 which has the popular mono KAF 8300 sensor and agin it runs really well, plus a lodestar autoguider..

    They are the only Cameras I Have used on my rpi3b..

    Also just been trying out using teamviewer host on the rpi but find noVNC much better, what is the difference between RealVNC and noVNC...??

    :)

  11. 1 hour ago, stash_old said:

    Why use Skysafari when Kstars does all that Skysafari does - not a criticism but a question because I have been asking why Ekos is not totally separate (you can't run Ekos without Kstars on any O/S) especially as Indilib allows CDC and other planetarium software to connect/control.  Is it because your mount is mobile ?

    Plus your picture doesn't show any power wires connecting to the PI - I understand you run from the Rigrunner but cant see the cables ?

    Doesn't effect me as I run a DSLR but others have said that the RPI (even the RPI3 which split USB/Ethernet Bus) is just not faster enough with CCD's (frame rate) hence many have gone Rock64,Intel Stick etc . What's your experience ?

    I have never found a problem with RealVNC server on the RPI's only the network connection ,especially the Wifi weakness so what do you mean by "Performance" ? Again not criticism just interested ?

    It does make me laugh that your great set up relies on a £34 device - totally out of proportion to the rest of the kit - but it works LOL

    Using skysafari, is really useful if you need to go out to the mount, and slew to an object as you can see in real time...

    The rpi is more than fast enough when used this way as it’s onlt a server, there is no power Hungary software running on it, that’s all done form ones laptop or PC indoors..

    I found that the noVNC is superb, I have never had a problem with connection or with any dropouts, it just works..never tried RealVNC though.. :)

  12. 1 hour ago, giorgio_ne said:

    In my opinion, the best way to use and appreciate INDI is through an OTA mounted Raspberry Pi and a remote laptop or desktop running a separate instance of KStars.

    Although my Pi has the full INDI/Kstars combination installed on it, I use it only to manage the hardware connected to it and to guide the mount.

    I run any INDI client software on my laptop or desktop. I don’t bother using VNC or any other Remote Desktop software for two reasons: performance first. Second, KStars is available also for Windows and Mac OS and only needs to be configured with the network name or IP address of the Pi sitting on the telescope to manage it as if it was directly connected to it.

    Astroberry or Stellarmate OSs can be easily burned on an SD card and deployed on a raspberry Pi in a few minutes!

    Kstars for Windows, Linux or Mac OS can be downloaded from its website.

    Last but not least INDI has a Skysafari plugin that allows me to use Skysafari on my iPad to select targets and slew the mount. As I do so, it’s amazing to see the scope position being updated in real-time on KStars on the laptop.

    In the attached image is one of my setups: FSQ-106, EM-200, Qsi 690 wsg8, Lodestar X2, SestoSenso focuser, Raspberry Pi 3b+

    The Rigrunner power socket also has two USB ports delivering 5amps each. I use one of them to power the Pi. I do not need to use a powered USB hub!

    52FEEEC7-1917-438F-84E3-6E80BD452BC1.jpeg

    Totally agree with all of the above, and exactly how I run my set up.. :) :)

  13. 1 hour ago, Andyb90 said:

    I got some clear skies on Sunday, so setup for some testing. Again connections to asi1600 (imaging cam), asi290 (guide cam), EFW and HEQ5 were fine.

    I skipped polar alignment as I didn't actually realise there was an assistant in Ekos. Normally I use a Polemaster.

    So I slewed to Capella and went straight to alignment. I tried an offline solve to begin with, but that didn't work. So tried online and it worked. I then had a look at the index files in options. It appeared I had some missing that were required, so downloaded them. I also thought it best to download the recommended files too, but got an error after the 3rd download. The error is documented on the INDI forum and adding the missing files manually is provided as a workaround.

    Before downloading further files manually I tried the local solve again and it worked this time so I think the previous errors were probably due to missing required index files. I'll continue testing next session to see how I get on.

    Next I went to the capture tab to focus the 1600. I used the preview button for that. It took me a while before I realised that I had to mark the stars on the preview image before I could get a HFR value. Once that was sorted focusing was straight forward.

    Next up was guiding and this is where I came unstuck. A silly mistake really, but I didn't see it. I had the Guider set to asi290 correctly, but the Via option was set to the 1600. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out why the star wasn't moving during calibration. Then finally realised the Via option should be set to EQ MOD for my setup. Oh dear!

    After that calibration worked and guiding was up and running pretty quickly. Unfortunately by this point the wind was starting to pick up quite a lot and I was a bit concerned so decided to pack up. The initial guiding results were pretty good though considering the wind, just under 1 arcsec.

    Next session I'll see if I can get an imaging run going and then try to use VNC Viewer on my tablet to remote onto the laptop. I've tested the connection already so hopefully it should work. Will also be trying to Polar Alignment Assistant too.

    One gap that I didn't account for is with my Hitec Astro Mount Hub Compact. I normally use it for dew heater control and previously for focuser control, but unfortunately it looks like the software is Windows only. So I'd need another option for dew control.

    Also it would be really nice if I could use my Avalon mount with INDI. Looking on the forum I think it may be possible, but need to do some further reading.

    I do like KStars too. Its nice to have the planetarium functionality, including features like the DSS Overlay when exploring for targets. I also like the 'Whats Up Tonight' option.

    Andy.

     

    Great, glad you had a decent first light with the software...you will love it, far better than any windows software I have used, and getting better all the time, due to constant support.. :)

    I have the Pegasus ultimate power box and there is a driver now available for that in INdI...(indigo driver) although it has taken a while, but seems to work well..have a word with Jasem (AKA Knro on the INdI forum ) and he may well write a driver for the Hitecastro unit, although may be a while as I guess he is very busy.

  14. 2 hours ago, Andyb90 said:

    I installed the basic indi library with this command

    sudo apt-get install libindi1 indi-bin

    I don't think it includes any 3rd party drivers so I then installed the zwo and eqmod ones separately.

    Connection to my heq5 worked well. I was able to slew to a couple of targets in kstars and track then park the mount.

    I've also saved my location now. Think I must not have saved it correctly before.

    I installed Astrometry.net today and the index files.

    All in all I'm pleased with how the setup and initial tests have gone. I may get chance to try an imaging run tomorrow ?

    Andy

    Good, I love it and would never go back to windows, an all in one software with solid drivers.. :)

  15. 58 minutes ago, Andyb90 said:

    I've got KStars up and running and Ekos too. I'm using an asi1600 camera for imaging and asi290 for guiding. I have a zwo EFW too. So I installed the zwo indi driver. I also installed the eqmod driver for my heq5 pro mount.

    Both cameras connected without any problems. I took some test exposures and could see the resulting images. EFW connection was fine too. Just need to check correct filter is being set.

    Does anyone know if you can set camera gain for targets or sequence jobs?

    I want to connect my mount next. I have a lynx astro eq dir cable. Should that work with the eqmod driver?

    Also I added a new 'Home' location in KStars with the co-ordinates entered manually, but when I re-started KStars it had disappeared. Is there a way to permanently save this type of setting? Do I need to setup a config file?

    Andy.

    Great...glad you got,it sorted...why did you have to load drivers individually as they all come with INdI..??

    The EQ dir can,e will work fine...

    As for location, if you put that in during the set up wizard it should remember.... certainly don’t need to set up a config file, never heard of that being needed.. :)

  16. 9 minutes ago, Andyb90 said:

    Will try the fix, but if that doesn't work is there a command to uninstall indi and then a way to install 1.7.4?

    Andy.

    Hmmmm, not sure about that, but Jasem is working on it now, so won’t be long before fixed, I would try again in the morning and I bet all will be good... :)

    the problem is it won’t be in the full INdI until the next update, so you will have to use the INdI nightly build, as they are updated almost every day.. 

  17. 1 hour ago, stash_old said:

    Julian is correct it DIDN'T work but like all things It has moved on so it appears it does now work - I like Julian tried it a while back and it didn't ?

    Well I only installed 18.04.01 about three months ago and it worked perfectly then, but I guess the update was out before that so can’t comment on that..

  18. 4 hours ago, Andyb90 said:

    I got the dual boot working and tried to install Indi and kstars using the below command from the indi website

    sudo apt-get install indi-full kstars-bleeding

    But got a couple of errors with indi. The errors referred to ssag and altaircam. So I wasn't sure if indi had installed or not. I ended up running this command instead

    sudo apt-get install libindi1 indi-bin

    This worked and I then ran kstars-bleeding command which also completed.

    I think I have to install the drivers for my devices separately as I only have basic indi installed. Is that correct?

    Andy.

    Maybe you will if you have not installed INdI full...

    But can’t see what you couldn’t as I did with 18.04.1 no problem...there is an issue with the new INdI update from this morning, with the Altair cams, check out the lates post on the INdI forum...there is info there, I won’t uldate to that till sorted...I have the version of INdI 1.7.4 and all is good with that and no fixes needed...

  19. 37 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

    Unfortunately, that version, doesn't allow the running of things correctly, (it can be made to) but it would be easier for you to use 16.04, as everything has been written & tested with that version...

    I dont think that is correct, all good here with 18.04.1..I never had to alter anything at all after install, just installed full Kstars and INdI, and all was good, also no need to load drivers seperatly as they will be included with INdI... :)

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