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Everything posted by riklaunim

  1. There aren't any webcams for DS astrophotography. To do that you need way better cameras or a DSLR body and usually a guided telescope on an EQ mount. Cheap cameras/some webcams allow only to photograph Moon and planets.
  2. To fit it reasonably on a balcony DK build will likely fail and my other options are either Newtonians or second hand GSO RC. I don't want to go back to SCT as their closed OTA doesn't handle local night temperature drops efficiently.
  3. I'm looking at a f/4 12" Newtonian, mostly for Solar System imaging. Skywatcher has Quattro, while GSO has their own much cheaper f/4. The question is - which one is better, more rigid, that do not flex/bend? Older GSO like the 8" did commonly flex.
  4. All the 65/420 quadruples are from the same fab. They may differ in paint and accessories. Without any corner cases each should perform the same. WO66 dublet/triplet isn't the same thing and will require also a field flattener.
  5. It works, but it's not as good as newer cameras (like ZWO/QHY/Altair 224 based cameras)
  6. If you stack enough frames there is no difference between 12/14 and 16 bit. Even 8-bit planetary images from big sets produce 16 bit stack without problems. As for CCD vs CMOS - the CMOS are the current and future technology. CCD are slowly going out of the market as they can't go as far as CMOS technology.
  7. For imaging there is in general no difference which design you pick. The key element is aperture - more is better. What the design may affect is the thermal stability, ease of collimation (and it stability) and alike. For 6" Mak is getting to big while SCT is almost big enough to be optimal I would pick SCT, but likely trying to find a 8" OTA.
  8. They don't correct the filed, just reduce so the field quality won't be good - but how much it's hard to tell. It's easier for smaller sensors but still... Also with cameras like Atik 314E that have very low read noise and dark current you don't have to be that aggressive with f/ratio.
  9. I use it since long time and it allow taking LRGB images of planets (with real L filter and not an infrared passing one).
  10. I would be very sceptical about no-name cameras on aliexpress with high pixel counts. One - there is no guarantee that they have as many pixels as advertised (many no-name webcams cheat that way) and there is no guarantee it's good quality. Plus you don't get support from popular astro-capture apps.
  11. Newton rings can show up with ANY camera. What's specific about Micron sensors is that their Newton rings DO NOT vanish with tilting (if the sensor itself is giving them). QHY even posted some R&D on this topic long time ago and they blamed the cover glass of the sensor.
  12. The difference between Micron and other sensors is that in most cases for it - the Newton rings were causes by the sensor itself (it cover glass) in a way that tilting would not affect it. With other cameras it still can happen that you get them but it's not a problem with the sensor itself and in general - tilting it fixes the problem.
  13. Just use a camera that do not use a Micron/Aptina sensor (like ASI120). Old TIS cameras are old and rather not worth it - there are modern cameras with Sony IMX sensors
  14. It all comes down to your price limit. Neximage 5 is older generation and not as good as (ZWO, QHY, Altair...) cameras with more modern sensors. It also doesn't have ST4 port, so you would need direct mount connection with the PC for guiding (like annoying RS232 for SW mounts)
  15. SPC900 is an old webcam with an old sensor - not that efficient for planetary imaging. Nowadays dedicated fast planetary cameras are used. DSLR can be an entry into DS imaging, and much less into planetary imaging. Choose the camera to you imaging interests - either planetary camera, DSLR or DS camera (or one of the latest quasi-universal dedicated planetary camera capable of DS imaging).
  16. No-name cheap cameras in general aren't worth the money if you want the best quality possible (alongside good software and driver support). And 8 or 12MPix magic webcams are usually a big lie.
  17. Did you tried to debug the problem? Check Sharpcap logs? Windows devices list and other apps?
  18. Theoretically even USB 1.1 would work but the download time would be very long and impractical. As an all sky camera ASI178 doesn't have to send a lot of frames so RPi isn't capping it limits. Those frames also aren't saved so there is no storage problems (like if you would want to have like 30FPS uncompressed footage of the whole night - that would be a lot of GB of data). Nettops or mini-PC are good but you should avoid those smallest ones that don't have SATA III or M.2 slots. They also should have a proper set of USB3 (2) ports for USB3 cameras and so on. Smaller mini PCs could be embedded system based on Intel ultramobile chips (Braswell and alike) - those may have fixed storage and limited USB options / compatibility (weird OTG or something) or even Windows versions that is feature-limited that would make running such custom hardware hard or impossible. Normal Windows system must "works". If it makes problems - something is wrong and it should be solved in a better way than changing the OS straight away and dumping all the astro-apps it offers.
  19. Well, for me even Atik 314L+ with even bigger pixels was compatible with 100mm focal length lens, like so:
  20. IMX174 is "good" but newer sensors are noticeably better in terms of read noise - and that's important for lucky imaging. 20 min exposures is something you don't do when you do lucky imaging - then few sec exposures or less are required - to battle high resolution seeing and tracking accuracy. With typical DS cameras like Atiks you do "normal" DS imaging on X-min exposures on much lower resolutions. Newer sensors like IMX290 or IMX178 mono have very good performance but small pixels so you have to be careful with telescopes - to not get to much resolution
  21. If you are planning to do DS imaging with that setup then it may be hard to very hard. You will need good tracking, even guiding. And then if you use strong reduction you won't be able to use the DSLR.
  22. lsusb should show something, and if not - check dmesg for errors. Wine doesn't support windows drivers.
  23. Nowadays optics is of very good quality and for planetary imaging Barlows are a must to reach optimal-maximal f/ratio for given pixel size of the camera. And Powermate aren't that much required. Many others will be also as good as those.
  24. If you need a Windows driver to make something work then it will not work under Wine - it doesn't do driver level for hardware. Wine is not an emulator, just a translator of system calls from Windows to Linux layer. You would need something that is Windows - like Windows or to some extent ReactOS
  25. Wine doesn't have the hardware/driver layer of Windows so not everything is possible.
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