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Galen Gilmore

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Everything posted by Galen Gilmore

  1. A bit expensive, I was thinking about buying the Orion skyglow astophotography filter. It is a little bit cheaper then the IDAS, and it seems to be recommended a lot on the cloudy nights forum.
  2. Yea I agree. I was doing 2 minute exposures before, but I was getting a horrible gradient. I though shorter subs would get rid of it or reduce it, but it didn't. Would a LP filter help reduce these gradients?
  3. Yea I realize that I was off focus. I was imaging M31 before I started with M45, and the focus was spot on for m31. I think that focus slipped before I started imaging M45.
  4. A bit reluctant to post this as it didn't quite work out as intended. But if I don't share I have nothing else to post. M45 - 50x30 seconds Its not terrible, but I could've gone for long exposures. I was scared that the images would be too bright without a LP filter
  5. Sure, get as many frames as possible. Get dark frames as well. I don't have the EQ3 but I have the EQ5. All you can really do about tracking is to get as accurate polar alignment as possible, and then let the motors do their thing. Fixing mistakes in the tracking is what guiding is for. If you are not sure if you are pointing at it then just do a quick 10-15 second exposure to make sure it's in frame. Bright objects like the Andromeda galaxy are bright enough that you can see it with short exposures. If you are shooting something dimmer then I assume that you could recognize star patterns to frame up your object? Have not yet imaged anything that dim yet though, so I wouldn't know. Good luck tonight, excited to see how it comes out!
  6. That second attempt at processing looks very good! Just imagine if you stacked all eight of the frames! Also, did your camera produce that .NEF file? or did you convert it?
  7. Burnt stars are just stars that are overexposed so they don't quite look natural. It could be from your processing as it appears you did a pretty aggressive curve stretch. Post your unprocessed photo, and some of us might see if the burnt stars are just a case of the processing.
  8. Good first image. check out this video: Deep Sky Stacker and photoshop tutorial
  9. Shame about the dew, but a fabulous image nonetheless. I especially like the overall color of the image.
  10. Lovely! What are the exposure and ISO times? I'm also assuming a modded camera?
  11. I nearly chocked on my spit when I saw that image (not a hyperbole I almost did) great job!
  12. @Stu Wilson @alhiggs Please read the instructions. it states to create a new topic in the thread for every image. You may submit multiple entries, but you need to create a new topic for every image. HTH
  13. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that you can't use it, but it's just not optimal. Normally to get results that are close to what can be achieved with an eq mount, you must put in thousands of exposures (not an over statement). A guide scope won't really help all that much I don't think, just because the max you will be able to do without any field rotation is 20-30 seconds. And the mount should be able to track for that long unguided easily. If I were you, don't waste your money for now. You can do some planetary and lunar, and maybe some short exposure DSO. But save your money until you have enough to get a real EQ mount. Most say that an HEQ5 is the minimum for an astrophotography, but if you really are not willing to lay down 900 pounds then an EQ5 with motors will do. Then eventually you will save enough money for a 130pds, then you will be in business. Now let me let some people who are more experienced have a turn!
  14. Normal newtonian reflectors have this problem. The only two ways I've seen to fix this is either use a Barlow lens, or physically move your primary mirror up the tube. I don't think the star discovery mount is good for DSO's anyway. It is an Alt-Az mount, which means that it only moves up-down, left-right. These mounts do not compensate for field rotation.
  15. Widefield milky way challenge, Ice giants (Uranus and Neptune), No tracking, dwarf galaxies, double stars Just some I thought of off the top of my head. I might come back and suggest more
  16. Hey, can somebody explain to me how the coma corrector works? (as in how to use it) Because I've seen a lot about getting correct spacing with the corrector, and that worries me. Is it as complicated as I think it is or am I getting too worked up? Also, any tips for taking flat frames? besides all the basic stuff...
  17. The 130 has a wider field of view which makes it easier to guide and image bigger objects. But the 150 with a longer f/l is better suited to planetaries and small galaxies than the 130.
  18. I think that a 200PDS field of view is too small too be able to image some of the bigger DSO's like the Andromeda galaxy. Although it is much better suited for small galaxies and planetary nebulas. I would personally think that if your just starting out then a 130PDS would be a much better choice as its got a wider field of view, and its much lighter and smaller so its easier to carry, store, and setup. But it is ultimately up to you.
  19. Once again I forget to post my pictures! Baileys Beads with fuji Xt-1 at 1/4000 of a second at ISO 400. I also forgot to edit my other eclipse photos... I am the definition of procrastination everybody!
  20. Thanks Victor, still getting used to my new stuff but I think it's coming along nicely. Haha, your the only other one on this forum, but I was able to get quite a few of my friends hooked.
  21. Quick reprocess of the same image.
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