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About Handy_Andy

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    Rutland, UK
  1. Just a quick fyi on the reducer, it reduces the amount of backfocus from 133mm without to 105mm with it. Just something to keep in mind planning your setup
  2. The choice of adapting your existing finder or buying all new gear is entirely up to how you want to allocate your budget, as I had my finder just lying around I adapted mine and bought the baader guidescope mounting. This just slots into a synta style base. I also made my own dew heater as I kept getting dew after a while. Had the Evoguide been released a few months earlier I would have had that and used it as a travel scope too, but that's the way things go, mine works well as it is so not worth laying extra cash out to have a pretty one. Who can see it in the dark after all?
  3. I use an Altair Astro Lightwave 0.8x reducer/flattener with my ED80 and that works a treat, take a look at those. With your guiding question, I use a 50mm finder as my guidescope and it corrects the AVX a treat when I'm imaging with my ED80.
  4. Someone else with far more experience will no doubt correct me but as I've previously been tempted to look at the hyperstar route and don't think it's the best way to go. The issues that I heard of with it were that with the focal ratio being so fast focusing has to absolutely spot on. Given sct's predilection for mirror flop this can be difficult to achieve. There were questions as I recall regarding the size of the imaging circle with some vignetting. If your determined to image at very small F numbers given you've said you have an NEQ6, you might want to look at Celestron's Rowe Ackermann Astrograph. That has a larger aperture and is designed to operate at F2.2 instead of being modified. Better spending money and getting it right than forcing the wrong equipment. You'll get some better advice in the not too distant future I'm sure but something for you to look into whilst you wait.
  5. For dso's your better off with a ed80 or something similar, the mak and Schmidt have long focal lengths which make guiding and polar alignment absolutely critical to any imaging. The difference between the mak and the Schmidt is that the mak has a concave corrector plate in the front which makes it heavy. Schmidts have a thinner flat corrector but use an additional flattener to make a flat field. Another point is both the mak and the Schmidt are prone to dew problems and have long cool down times.
  6. Handy_Andy

    old or new?

    Flo have an opened box heq5 pro with £50 knocked off in the offers section
  7. Handy_Andy

    want to change my setup advise please!

    I have had an 8" Newtonian on my Avx which is similar to the heq5 in terms of capability and capacity. It's an unwieldy beast on a non permanent setup as it catches too much wind for the mount to cope with. My ed80 is used far more and as previously stated is quite resistant to wind effects (Though not immune I should say). The wider fov is quite helpful on dso's which are surprising large once you get going. Never once regretted getting the ed80 it's a remarkably able scope, focusser aside it's terrific
  8. Handy_Andy

    A friday night Markarian's Chain

    When I've done it in the past I've switched the file output from raw to regular images for daytime work. This is an easy setting to switch on canon cameras not sure about Nikon. You can have a single set of bias frames and reuse them for different pictures. You only really need to do flats each time to get rid of any dust bunnies in the imaging chain and differing illumination levels over the sensor.
  9. Handy_Andy

    A friday night Markarian's Chain

    I've found that the disparity in image sizes when using my canon happens when I've switched between Raw files as the output to jpegs. The raw files being those few pixels larger. Great shot too
  10. With regards to your idea of having an 8" Newtonian on your Avx I would suggest caution. Whilst the mount can manage the weight, the slightest gust of wind moves it around quite a bit meaning that you'll be limiting your viewing opportunities to only perfect conditions
  11. Handy_Andy

    Wanted dustcap for polar scope

    I have an ADM one from the knob kit for my AVX, don't know what diameter cap you need but they can't be all that different. I measure 34mm with the rubber o-ring
  12. Handy_Andy

    What's your favourite bit?

    My favorite bit is when I've got all my gear outside, set up and running. It's then I can sit and look at the stars whilst my scope collects those lovely photons to play with the following day because I don't have work in the morning *Oh look, a Blue moon*
  13. Handy_Andy

    camera choice

    Another 700d user here. Loved it as a regular camera then when I upgraded that I had my 700d modded for astro and haven't looked back since.
  14. +1 on the flattener and for imaging a bahtinov mask. The most important thing with imaging is your mount, so as tempting as it is to plunge straight in (guilty) work on researching that first. The slippage you refer to happens when you put a lot of weight on the back end of the scope. With my flattener and DSLR I did have slip at the beginning but once I tightened up the focusser I haven't had any problems, though some people do continue. You can't really go wrong with the ed80, of the telescopes I have it is my favourite, and once you get going imaging the results are awe inspiring. The key with this hobby is patience, It's taken me the best part of 2 years to get images that really excite me. Good luck
  15. I came across this link in the forum some time ago http://dslr-astrophotography.com/iso-values-canon-cameras/ unfortunately no info on the 1300d but it does show you the best iso vs dynamic range for subs. Noise is reduced with increasing numbers of subs. Quite a few people on here don't rate darks but use bias as a master dark and dithering to eliminate hot pixels during stacking, something for you to look into as I'm only really starting down that track myself. With the light pollution LED are the bane of astronomy now as they are broadband wavelengths instead of a nice easily filtered emission line. As I understand it the only ways around it are to travel to darker skies or look into the deep dark abyss that is narrow-band imaging. hope this helps you on your way

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