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rogmet

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Posts posted by rogmet

  1. Nice, congrats! They're good mounts, mine is old and stiff (like myself) but still guides beautifully.

    You can unscrew the RA clutch handle and screw it back in a hole or two over, lets you tighten it up a tad more.

    • Like 1
  2. Hello Jairo,

    All I did for my 120, which I think has a bit more space between the rings, was cut a bit of 18mm MDF, drilled and countersunk it for the bolt locations then sprayed it black.

    The guide scope is bolted through the MDF top plate and straddles the front ring so should be reasonably stiff, it guides well. Pegasus pocket power box and raspberry pi are just held down by self-adhesive velcro.

    The little red box is just a high current capable buck converter to power the Pi4 from the 12v pocket power box, rather poorly hung off the side of the pi....

    IMG_20200911_224105.thumb.jpg.13775f80519de215363e8f0568bdf150.jpg

    The dodgy brown colour of the guide scope is because it spent a summer near a window a few years ago - you can see where I've had to slide it forward in the rings to get it to fit now it has stuff behind it. Still working nicely!

  3. Here's the sketch I put on my sensors that's been running beautifully for several years at this stage.

    What's good about it is that it limits the frequency of posting to a max of once per second, it will only post if there's a specified difference between the last post and the current reading, and if it's unfeasibly calm, it'll force a posting every 5 minutes.

    I just did some chopping and changing, all credit should go to the original author of course. I was using a Wemos D1 Mini (ESP8266) so pins may need to be updated.

    ESP_BME280_MQTT_LWAT.ino

    • Thanks 1
  4. Click on the Plus button beside "Connections" when you're not connected to anything. Give it whatever name you want. Put in the IP address or the hostname under Host. Leave the protocol and port number as they are, leave username and password blank.

    It should show you all active publishing topics on the server, at the very least there'll be $SYS which is the MQTT server itself publishing info on what it's doing.    

    • Thanks 1
  5. If you're on the Pi directly (i.e. not trying over VNC or SSH etc), copy/pasting commands is easy when you know how. Select the text you want to copy into the terminal, click into the place you want it to go, then click the mouse-wheel (middle mouse button). It should just appear, you don't need to select Copy or Paste, just have it selected.

    You can set the camera gain on the Camera tab in Ekos but I usually avoid this. If you look on the Indi Control Panel for the ASI1600, you can specify Gain & Offset. Down the bottom of that page, make sure the Format is "Raw 16 bit" - I spent more time than I will admit to troubleshooting why I was getting pure white images one night, that setting had changed to 8 bit for some reason.

    IndiCP.png.1824855806bc6daab435e9f0cb70c163.png

    • Thanks 1
  6. Yeah, don't break it, it's an awesome bit of kit!

    I took apart my focuser; the 4 inner screws are grub screws that set the separation of the pinion from the rack. I wouldn't use these to mount the EAF, the chances of getting the correct separation and sufficient tension on the mounting plate are driven mainly by luck I would have thought. I'd bet it's what you're supposed to do though. Maybe I'm not giving them enough credit.

    Let us know what happens, I was tempted by the EAF to replace my DIY stepper motor thing that drives the fine focus knob through a "slack as I dare" belt. It works but I don't really like driving the fine focus knob with all its delicate internals

  7. That doesn't look right. I was going to take apart my 120 focuser to see what the 4 inner screws do but it's got my own DIY focus unit firmly attached to it.

    This page shows a guy fitting a autofocuser to a 120 and it's fitted to the inner screws. It's got to be worth a try - it can't be any other way if the fairly pricey additional mounting plate is specifically said to fit the Esprit. I'd pull off the focuser by removing the 4 outer screws and have a look inside (I've done it before but I can't remember how it looks). If it looks like snugging up 2 of the inner 4 screws isn't going to unnecessarily stress the mechanism, I'd go with that.

    If you haven't already, a quick mail to FLO may help.

    Let us know how you go, it's got to be useful to someone in the future - maybe even me....

  8. PM sent, excellent!

    Now just need to make an effective method of attachment to the underside of the focuser.... I'm almost convinced that a 3D printer is a rational purchase to finish off a small, cheap focuser project.

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