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Posts posted by Deeko

  1. Astronomik 6nm SHO filters arrived and the clouds departed for a wee while! First light on the 294MM with the filters.  This is my first mono camera and first attempt at SHO imaging. It is 3 hours of data in Bortle 6/7 with 20x180sec for each filter., 30x flats, darks, and dark flats. 


    • Like 2

  2. Got the camera a few weeks ago but was unable to have a proper first light and also had to wait on SHO filters. This is my first mono camera and first attempt at SHO imaging. It is 3 hours of data in Bortle 6/7 with 20x180sec for each filter., 30x flats,darks, and dark flats. Using Astronomik 6nm SHO filters.


    • Like 3

  3. Ordered the 295MM with the Baader 36mm LRGB set, I cant seem to find the entry-level Baader SHO 2459466 set in stock anywhere. Are the similarly priced Optolong/ZWO SHO sets of the same quality as the Baader set?

    Or am I better spending more for separate filters? - more being a relative term!

  4. On 03/10/2020 at 20:27, Adam J said:

    I would say that 31mm is the way to go but depending on F-ratio then 1.25 may also work out. After that its just a question of budget. I would say Baader personally for buget filters, they are tried and tested. You will get OIII reflections but unless you are willing to pay the big bucks (AD / Chroma) that is not something you will be able to get rid of.


    I am using a TS Photoline 80mm f6 triplet scope with matched 0.79 reducer. Is there any benefit going with 2" inch filters and wheel with this setup and a 294MM or is it wasted money? Was also thinking if I upgraded to an APS-C fornat camera in the future then the 2" filters would be better, but I am not so sure now!

  5. 2 hours ago, tomato said:

    I’ve just unboxed the QHY 268c and so far I have been impressed,  pretty solid camera based on appearance and weight (if that’s anything to go on) and I am particularly impressed with the array of spacers and adapters included to set up the required back focus dimensions. Native drivers for NINA and Sharpcap downloaded from the QHY site and camera connects with no issues.

    Of course, it’s all about the data it delivers, but it could be a while before I get to do that evaluation.

    Would love to hear/see how you get on with the camera! 

  6. As it approaches Xmas I am defo in the market to gift myself either a new OSC such as the ZWO 2600 or go mono with the new 294MM Pro. Currently have the ZWO294Mc Pro (for nearly 2 years). As the array of filter sets for LRGB and HSO vary hugely in price, can anyone recommend a set of each filters that is reasonable priced to go with the 294MM?


  7. 51 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

    I've been mightily impressed by a QHY OSC camera recently but if you're mainly going to do narrowband then mono still makes more sense. Very good Heart nebula!


    @ollypenrice, I am stuck in an infinite loop atm between going mono and something like the QHY268C / ZWO 2600MC Pro, the cost for both would be roughly the same i.e. new 294MM / 1600MM with filters etc. I don't know what it will take to bend me into a decision.

  8. Hi all,

    I am in one of those familiar astro quandaries, once again on making decisions on buying kit. I have owned the ZWO 294 MC Pro for nearly two years and very happy with it, all the more so with using narrowband filters with it., one of my recent images is below..

    At this point I am trying to decide on whether to stay with OSC and perhaps buy the ZWO ASI 2600MC-PRO here, or make the jump to mono with either the ZWO 1600MM package here or build a mono setup around the recently announced 294 MM. My scope is a TS Optics Photoline 80mm triplet and with 294 MC large pixels my images are generally softer as on the edge of under-sampling territory with this combination. I also live in a Bortle 6 area in the UK in south Yorkshire, imaging time is therefore limited due to the pesky weather.

    I know this question is discussed a lot but given each person's upgrade scenario is different I would love some feedback to consider based on my own.





    • Like 1

  9. I have a ZWO 294MC and in a quandary over an upgrade path. I love the ease of use with OSC under UK cloud-first skies but also know that mono will get much better results, but our UK skies are so unforgiving with the time available.. My personal time is also limited and convenience much be a factor for consideration. At the minute I could go with the ZWO 2600 OSC or for roughly same price get the 1600mm with NB filters etc. I don't like these kinds of decisions 😕

    BTW, thank you all who contributed to this thread, a very interesting read.

  10. As the titles suggests, I have been using the ZWO 294MC Pro for around 18 months and happy with results and everything I have learned along the way. Now ready for the next level of quality and proper narrowband imaging. I like the look of the ZWO 1600MM but notice this camera has been around since 2016, have looked around and cannot see anything newer in terms of quality.price range? Is there any  news on a replacement for 1600MM with newer mono sensor at similar price point?


  11. Hello all,

    I am looking for a camera rotator adaptor for my ZWO 294MC Pro. I want to place it as close to the camera as I can so its not holding much of the image train weight (see photo). Does anyone have any experience with the below adaptors:



    The first link looks a bit more robust with the 3 screws, both have self-centring inserts.



  12. Bought a new motherboard for £95 on Ebay from a reputable seller, delivered quickly too. Replaced board and all is well again, phew! If this happens again I'll be looking into buying another brand mount. The wiring and placement of the motherboard was an eye opener. Wiring was haphazard and chaffing and motherboard has no surge protection and exposed (to a degree) to the elements when you take the polarscope cap off at front.

    For now I am happy, but of course wary of it happening again.

    • Like 1

  13. 13 minutes ago, MarkAR said:

    Before you give up, I think the problem could be the little black square thing.

    I think its a bridge rectifier, are there any markings on the sides or under the silver looking stripe?

    If the mounting screw is supposed to be -ve then the pin I've marked A should be the -ve and B is the +ve.

    Can you do a simple continuity check between A-screw and B-screw. If both are continuous the the rectifier is blown. They are only a few quid if you can find out which one to get.

    Maybe email a picture to RS Components or Farnell see if they can identify it.


    Just so am following you, you want me to do a continuity test between the two physical pins marked A and B in the photo? Just double checking!

  14. Hi all, have given up on it. A full day spent troubleshooting. Now looking at where I can buy a new board but Flo sadly doesn't stock. While I'm at it and out of sheer paranoia I am going to replace the current psu setup with a Pegasus Power Mini with decent AC power supply, will be able to check all the wiring and such when changing to the Pegasus. If it blows again its going in the skip 😕

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