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kilix

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About kilix

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    Star Forming
  • Birthday 23/10/85

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    Slovakia

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  1. Your reports encourage me to do similar session, well done! I like how the last session made you optimistic and enthusiastic, I know that feeling, it's great Too bad that we still have clouds here and it's not dark before 22:00, so a nice 2hour observing session will surely make me a zombie at work the next day. The forecast seems good for thursday night, so I guess I will make a zombification sacrifice to see the veil and take another look at M13 with bigger magnification. I did not try it last time, I see that you went with BGO6, so that's 150x with your scope. I only used BCO18mm, which makes about 80x mag in my scope. Veil nebula seems to benefit the most from OIII filter, which I don't have, but I have UHC, which should provide also some contrast boost, so I am curious how will it turn out. I agree on orthos, they are excellent EPs for not a lot of money! I especially love the way they show the Moon - natural colours (no sepia tint) and extra sharp view, jaw-dropping sights.
  2. yeah, but add a date 09/2017 to M36, M37 and M38, as they are below the horizon now
  3. Great report, enjoyable read. I kinda miss a bit more thorough description of M13 - did you resolve individual stars? How did it look like? M13 was my target for the night between fri/sat last weekend and I could barely see with great effort that it indeed is not a nebula, but a star cluster. My aperture is almost the same as yours. M13 was a bit dissapointing, I expected it to be more like M36-M38 with clearly visible stars, according to all the M13 hype I read here Also - I am inexperienced observer, so that may be a factor too. I feel your struggle with constellations/night sky orientation. What helped me a lot is a planisphere and a determination to identify at least 1 new constellation whenever I am out and I see new stars (like this weekend, as that was my first session in May and the sky changed a lot). Don't need scope for that, only time and patience.
  4. wow, you certainly don't need to setup the scope 5hrs prior to observing. If I see your history correctly, you have Esprit 80, which is a triplet, but still, it should be thermally equalized in no longer than ~30mins. Maybe owners of triplets can come here with exact numbers. Also, it's not winter anymore, so thermal equilibrium is not as big concern as it was before. Most importantly - when you setup the scope during daytime, make absolutely sure, that all the covers are on and never leave the scope unattended. My Mak (which contains a lot of glass) can equalize in about an hour during winter. That is more than 25°C thermal difference.
  5. If you buy a Mak, maybe in the future you will consider wider fields and a bit more pleasant view of objects in context to their surroundings. That's why lot of people who own a Mak, also have some fast refractor. Not for big magnifications, but exactly the opposite, as a Mak is not suited for smaller magnifications and wider FOV. With a fast refractor, it's a nice combo. Mak is a specialist instrument for planets and lunar observing. Sure, it will show you the brightest nebulae and brighter clusters too. Or some faint fuzzies like M66, M82, those can be viewed too, but it's nothing spectacular in a long FL 5" instrument. Manual tracking can be a pain in the beginnings, I also vote for GoTo on a mak, if at least a bit possible
  6. I use only PC version of Stellarium and a planisphere. I have some kind of SkySafari or similar app on my phone, but I ended up not using it at all. I find it too much hassle, it messes up my night adapted vision and the benefit it provides is questionable. The reason why PC version of stellarium and a simple planisphere is enough for me right now, is the fact, that I plan my sessions beforehand and I tend to not overdo it with objects to observe, 5-7 objects per session is a reasonable maximum for me. My sessions tend to be shorter than 2 hours. Also, I am a green observer, I tend to enjoy easy-to-find objects, as all is pretty much new to me. Also, GoTo helps a lot, so I don't need any fancy apps/maps, but still I enjoy galaxy or nebula hunting sessions with my ST80 on a manual AZ3 as much as I enjoy my GoTo-powered SkyMax (maybe I enjoy that ST80 even more than that GoTo scope, but don't tell anybody, it was too expensive to admit that ). The exception to this 5-7object rule are double stars, which one can observe 10+ double stars per session, but I have GoTo for that, don't search for them manually.
  7. I vote for Skyliner, because aperture. But you are comparing totally different instruments. It's like asking: "which car is better? Land rover defender or Porsche Carrera?" What kind of question is that? If I were you and portability is not important, I would choose the biggest Dobson I can afford. Why not 250p?
  8. those doublets should be oriented with planar side facing outwards, convex side inwards. The ring with no threads is a spacer, which should be between those two doublet lenses. Ring with threads is for locking everything in place. EDIT: if the image is distorted even after assembly, try swapping those lenses (swap first lens with second, second with first, again facing convex side inwards). They may look the same, but they may not be the same.
  9. well, 2nd ortho eyepiece arrived today.
    Do not ask me how much I had to google to get to this. BGOs are no longer sold or produced.
    Many thanks to guys from Supra Prague. Proud to own 12.5mm Baader Genuine Ortho, can't wait to try it out on Moon. I believe this will be my dedicated lunar eyepiece in my 127Mak

     

    IMG_0332.JPG

  10. Kiraw, since you did not specify what bothers you with your current eyepieces (maybe nothing?), I advice you to just use the kit you have and find out what you want/need. If it is only magnification that you require now, buying a barlow lens with removable optical element bay be a good, fast and cheap solution. In your budget: SkyWatcher deluxe 2x barlow has a removable optical part, which - when used by itself - will give you an additional 1.5x mag. This, with your scope and your current eyepieces will give you 130x, 97x, 65x, 52x, 39x, 26x magnifications, which are anice selection. Celestron omni barlow is the same thing only with a different sticker. Another beast in your budget may be Baader Q Barlow, which will give you 2.25x and an additional 1.3x when using only optical part. That will give you magnifications (with current EPs) 146x, 84x, 65x, 58x, 33x, 26x. Everything is nice, but with your current scope you may want to go to mags at about 200x. So, buying a 6-7mm eyepiece (one of the suggested above) in addition to the barlow lens will solve this.
  11. does your scope have 10mm and 25mm KE eyepieces as shown on celestron webpage? I don't know anything about those, someone surely will, those may be actually usable eyepieces. What do you want to view? What are your issues with observation? Short eye relief, narrow field of view, lack of clarity along the edges, small magnification, trouble with focus? What bothers you with current eyepieces? And, what is your budget? Maybe buying an OKish barlow lens, like the celestron omni 2x barlow would be enough for now and would make you happy for months.
  12. You did not specify what kind of eyepiece you use. General rule is to start from longer focal length eyepiece (20mm in your case, I believe). Use this smaller magnification and its bigger field of view to identify the object - but first make sure your focusing is OK by viewing random bright star and focusing it to pinpoint of light. Then swing the telescope to what you believe is Jupiter. You should clearly see that it is not a star but a small disc (think a pea sized object viewed from across the room) with moons orbiting it. You should see 4 moons, maybe 3 if one is behind the planet. Then you can use the shorter focal length eyepiece (like 10mm) to increase magnification. Refocusing after changing EP is almost always necessary. In your 70/400mm scope the 10mm EP gives you 40x magnification which is not much, but with patience and good focus you should be able to see atleast 2 red cloudbelts on Jupiter.
  13. that's just an amazing drawing and reminds me a lot about my own observation. Makes me want to sketch something too. Too bad that I can draw only straight lines in CAD
  14. 1) at no point you will be able to see galilean moons as discs with 130mm aperture. No way. They are just points of light. 2) Baader zoom and Baader barlow are of really good optical quality. There is nothing wrong with them, if you didn't drop them on the ground (or maybe if you bought second hand item, then maybe someone dropped it before). Other than that, no point in looking for faults there. Also no point blaming it for poor optical performance being a zoom. This is certainly not the case. It's really a solid piece of equipment, well known and well liked in the astronomical community. 3) If you have the scope properly focused on the Moon, just swing it to Jupiter, no need to refocus. If it is properly focused on the Moon, then it is focused to 'infinity' and it will work just as well for Jupiter without refocusing. 4) I strongly encourage you to play with the focuser/barlow/eyepiece combo during the day to get to grips with it. It is easy to make a mistake somewhere, especially during the night, when you don't see properly what is happening and also when you don't know what you should expect to see. 5) 8mm setting on the zoom + 2.25 baader barlow should give you something like 180x mag, which is enough to see cloud bands, great red spot and some details on Jup. Maybe it's even too much, if seeing conditions are not too good. I tried the ST80, which is not exactly a powerful planetary scope and could see the Jupiter's cloud bands at about 60x mag. So maybe start with barlow and 20mm setting (70x mag) on the zoom EP and go from there. Always start from lower mags, easier to focus, less shaky, bigger FOV, the planet does not run away that fast from the field of view.
  15. also, if you tried viewing Jupiter just as it appeared above horizon, then it's impossible to view any detail because of atmosphere. Wait for it to come a bit higher in the sky.