jjosefsen

No I can't. At least not in a normal stretch.

Hi, I'm working with some recent data of a new(ish) camera, and my Ha data is pretty good, but the oiii has these strange artifacts around the borders. If I use any kind of local normalization then it pretty much ruins most of the image, as you can see below.. First the Ha: Oiii with local normalization: oiii local normalization map, see how it fits with the artifacts: Oiii without any local normalization: These edge artifacts, could they be related to a bad filter or is it a processing artifact, has anyone seen anything similar? I am using Astro Pixel Processor for calibration and stacking.. Im kind of stumped on this one, and I am going to yank out the Oiii filter this weekend to have a looksie.

There is a user created video of NINA here:

There is a bahtinov tool yes. Single frames can be captured in the imaging tab. You can plan mosaics in the framing tab.

The rest is somewhere on youtube, gain, offset, etc. Here:

This is great, well done and thanks for sharung.

How is Grant comming along with this scope? It looks like it is made by GSO, so I assume it has the same crayford focuser as the other GSO 6" RC's out there?

Hi Rob, Happy N.I.N.A. user here.. Have you had a look at the documentation here? https://nighttime-imaging.eu/docs/documentation/tabs/ I know a fella named David Harvey has made some videos about N.I.N.A., but I cannot for the life of me find them again.. Edit: Found it! Mitch Arsenault a.k.a. Astro Dude is also comming out with a video soon, so you could have an eye on his youtube page for the video. There is also the dedicated Discord server, where a bunch of users and contributors hang out, you should be able to get help there as well. Hope you get on with it.

Seeing as this is a new product and possibly driver, could you try to check it with the ascom conformity checker.. https://ascom-standards.org/Developer/Conformance.htm It is suprising how many suppliers mess up the drivers..

The resolution will always be better in mono. But I must say that I am quite impressed with the results that @StaceStar has been getting with her filter. If I hadn't already gone down the mono route, I think I might have gone down this particular rabbit hole too.

The Needle in RGB A beautiful edge on spiral galaxy in the constellation Coma Berenices, around 38,5 million LY from earth. Investigations with the Spitzer IR telescope suggests that the galaxy may actually be a barred spiral galaxy with an inner ring as well. -------- Finally got around to processing my data on NGC 4565 from March. This was one of my "test projects" from this year, where I only shot R-G-B and created a synthetic luminance master from those frames. I think that the most efficient way is still to shoot pure luminance and then just enough R-G-B to get the color you want. Unless one is imaging star clusters, then I think it is totally fine to skip luminance altogether and get as much color data as possible. I will try to do a "super luminance" where I add the R-G-B frames to the luminance stack at some point as well. Shot with my Hypercam 183m V2 and totalling aroung 4,2 hours of data. More info here: https://www.astrobin.com/412663/B/ Comments and critique is always welcome. I decided to put this post in "Getting started with imaging" as it may be interresting for beginners thinking if luminance is worth it.

Aaah Arp Galaxies make for some very interresting targets. I have the book: "The Arp Atlas of Peculiar Galaxies" - quite interresting.

I've just seen this claimed on this forum before, but was never quite sure as I don't have any hands-on experience, hence the question. But i suppose what you say makes sense, particularly as you are imaging at such great focal lengths.

It depends what your needs are I guess.. And how much you like to fiddle with your mount. I've had my EQ6 for a year and already had to adjust RA/DEC backlash once to get good guiding again. Now i get 0.5 - 0.8 RMS routinely and I am quite happy. From what I read the iOptrons use springloaded worms, which should reduce backlash significantly. I image at 520mm FL with around 5-6 minute subs being the absolute maximum, so I don't need perfect guiding, right now.. If I wan't to get something with a longer focal length, I might find it difficult to get good enough guiding. Sometimes it really does make sense to buy once feel the sting once, instead of maybe getting the cheaper option, only to have to upgrade a year or two later. Edit: I forgot to mention that my EQ6 has pretty bad pointing accuracy due to a significant amount of dec backlash. It is not a problem for me as i use platesolving and software that will make sure that it automatically gets the scope pointing where it needs to be, even if it takes a couple of tries..

Aren't the encoders only really useful if he intends to image unguided? I think those £900 could be put to better use.. Edit: I would add that I would trade my EQ6 Pro for a CEM60 any day of the week..

https://nighttime-imaging.eu/ Free..

Nice! I was looking at one of those last year, but could not find a european dealer.. Does the focuser have a builtin rotator? Can you recommend anthing for knocking down FL that and speeding it up a bit, if one was so inclined?

A dark filter would be handy if you are using the gear remotely and need a new set of darks..

It's a lovely cluster. If I may critique a little.. I think the blues are a bit too cyan, and you have some blocky looking stars.. Maybe try drizzling it. I don't know what your resolution was here..? Either way I'm quite jealous that you can image right now, too bright up here this time if year. 🙂

Yeah I realise Ha is the most dominant type of gas in most nebulae. But I was looking at an HOO image of M17 (mono sensor) the other day, and compare that to Trevor's M17, shot with OSC through the multi band pass filter. There was much more blue in the mono image. But like you I have seen some pretty good SHO / HOO simulations made with OSC and these filters.

Astrobackyard.com has a review of the Optolong L-eNhance filter. Trevor is perhaps not the most critical reviewer of products out there, but maybe the video can answer some of your questions. Many of the images I see with these kinds of filters are predominantly red, and usually not much else, which is a shame really. But it might be down to how you process the data from these filters, here is an example from Tommy Lim who does product testing for Optolong (I think..!): https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D6K54aHUYAEQJwV.jpg:large It shows more color variation than I usually see from these kind of filters. All in all I find it very interresting, especially as time is such a limit for me.. Capturing everything in one go is very tempting.

There is a lot of talk about these sattelites on twitter right now, particularly among astrophotographers.. 12000 of these suckers in orbit does sound quite unnerving, but I will reserve judgement until we see them in their final orbits. Thanks for sharing!

At f7 probably not a problem.. But i don't know about after reducer is added.. It might be a problem, and if you have to get new fw and filters it will drive the price up.

Hi, It has been a bit of a ride to be honest.. I have had some problems with calibration, but due to lack of astrodarkness here, I have had very limited chances to acquire new data. I do believe I have the calibration problems under control now, so looking forward to late summer / autumn so I can start imaging again. There is some random noise that I just can't figure out, and due to it's random nature the only way I can see to get rid of it is by swamping it with enough signal and then dithering, something I would do regardless. The backfocus has not been an issue yet, but I have a quite slow system @F6.4 and I think it will be a problem when going faster with 1.25" filters. I haven't done enough testing yet, I've had two sessions with it - one with a full moon and one with around 60% illuminated moon and some hih thin clouds.

Little update here.. I got a new laptop for work recently after the dock died or my old one.. So decided to try and test the camera on said laptop instead of my older imaging laptop.. Look at the "read noise" that I was getting on the left side.. Pretty much gone on the new laptop!! Same settings, same cables - haven't even touched the camera between these shots. So... Researching to see if there is something I can do to clean that noisy USB connection up, or if I need to look at another imaging laptop.. I even tested it on my "old" work laptop and it had the same issue as my imaging laptop, so I concluded it wasn't computer related..