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  1. Hi all, I've just sort of stubble'd into short tube refractors. Started as a lark with a 70mm Celstron pre travel scope short tube, then in the "Quest for Aperture" I found an older Orion 90mm ST "Discovery" which was precluded with a lust purchase of an Williams Optic's Zenithstar 66 Petzval ED,,,,,,, yeah it popped up in the local classified's while I was waiting delivery of the 90mm. So, now I have the CA factor which I've experimented with using almost all the known filters of DSO, Planetary Bandpass, Polarize, & color filters. The infamous #8 with and without a polarize filter stacked seemed to be best in the 70mm & 90mm, the WO 66 being Petzval has almost no CA compared to the other two, so I'm working with the two a-fore mentioned short tubes, What success, if any, have any of you all had with CA filters and what would you recommend? Thank you in advance for any input, Slo
  2. I guess it's because I didn't make myself clear what I was doing,
  3. kippford, I might have confused you, I was testing the internal compass of my phone to see if it would deviate when in close proximity to my OTA in that one of these brackets might work to use a phone as a finder, with the Skyapp I'm using I can select any object up there then touch enter and there's an arrow on the screen that points the way to it no matter which direction it is in relation to the phone and as I get closer to the selected target the arrow changes to a circle with the target inside the circle as a flashing green dot, then as I center that dot in circle the circle changes color. It may work , at least be close enough to use a 9 X 50 finder to align it for the scope.
  4. On your suggestion I just opened my compass app and moved my phone all around my scope, and back & forth across my laptop keyboard, din't see any change in its reading, kept pointing in the correct direction even swinging the phone position, maybe my phone would work, and understanding SkySafari's disclaimer, there are lots of sky apps available,, there may be more accurate ones.
  5. Saw this on another site, the guy uses his cell phone as a rudimentary finder, The phone bracket is the thing on the top right of the scope cage.
  6. Here are some images that might help. Image Credit : Jason D.
  7. Morning, well got home last night from work, set up the dob again, it's a truss and the reason for working out a quick collimation method with the coma corrector in place. Tweaked the secondary into position, the refracted beam dot and the etched center doughnut are almost the exact same size so as the laser dot moved over the doughnut i could easily center it, then the fully illuminated doughnut is now a shadow on the face of the laser 45degree target face, and the refracted laser just outlines the doughnuts shadow perfectly. In a fully darkened room the two images of the reflected beams on the secondary were difficult to distinguish, so no need to use that although if the laser isn't Barlowed or CC'd then yes you can see both tiny dots merge as the primary comes into collimation.
  8. So i guess with this new idea, how about setting up the laser in the Barlow and center up the out going refracted dot and the center mark on the face of the secondary, well it's truss dob specific as that's the only type you can see the face of the secondary mirror. If this works then I won't need the Carlin Barlow cap on the bottom of the Barlow, I'll just line up the two images on the secondary. Going to have to wait until I get home from work to give it a try.
  9. This last weekend was the fourth weekend in a row of researching and experimenting with my Skywatcher Truss 10" I got caught up in the whole mess with a simple statement to a newbie who was asking "How close does everything have to be for a good view" on the topic of collimation. I got chastised for replying to him, "Close enough for Horse shoe's and Hand grenade's", and what I meant was that ,,,, well what I meant didn't seem to matter as that I was collimated do near death by a couple of other members of that site. So I was going to see just how far off center the collimation could be and still provide an acceptable view, After researching and purchasing several new collimation tools, Cheshires' Cats Eyes, site tube combo's and two Hotech laser's, one single beam the other is the cross hair model. Working with the process, including removing the secondary mirror to black the edges & back, I was having difficulty with the Hotech laser, seemed to not center up as designed, always changed a bit when it was just removed and re-installed, so wanting something similar to the Glatter Laser that could just set into the eyepiece holder and be freely rotated I set to going through all my 1.25" to 2" adapters until I found one with a true enough bore and snug enough fit in the 2" eyepiece holder that I could rotate the laser w/adapter and the beam stay centered in the primary center doughnut. The problem of having a consistent enough rotation platform for testing all the adapters I decided to set my ES HR-CC into the draw tube and use the turntable top, seemed to work just fine and as I was watching the laser spot on the primary mirror I also noted that the optics of the CC was refracting the laser beam and as that I was using the cross hair laser for this I also noted the refracted beam was almost square, I was setting up the cross hair laser because it was the newest and I hoped best collimated. Anyway while watching the little square rotate and stay centered I remembered an article I had read during the last few weeks about using a Barlow to collimate the primary mirror and the reflected center mark technique, Nils Olof Carlin was the author, and during the last four weekends I had built a cap to place on the bottom of my Barlow. Seeing the refracted square I thought about Nils and for the heck of it I placed the cap on the bottom of the CC and there was the Square with a doughnut in the center! I was like "Wow & cool" at the same time,,,, as I rotated the laser the square would also rotate around the center hole of the cap, as I stood back up from crouching down to peek up the draw tube at the cap I noticed that the pattern was also displayed on the 45 degree target face of the laser! And also centered ! But, the pattern was just a tad too large, the doughnut was there but the outside edge was on the very outer edge of the target face, so I switched to the single dot laser with the adapter and cap on the CC and the pattern was just a bit smaller, I removed the cap then looked at the laser target face, there was the doughnut, dimmer but very distinct. I then moved to the back of the scope, I have a truss type dob so from the back I can also see the face of the secondary mirror and watch as the laser pattern moves around as I twist the primary mirror adjustment screws, as the two laser patterns merge the doughnut and outgoing refracted dot of the laser to form a a round dot with a bight center. The image on the screen may not be distinct enough for other's but understanding what's there it can be worked with quite well at night from the back of the scope. Let me know what you think of this and is it going to hurt to try it before condemning the idea? This might be a topic for the Astro Lounge rather than the Getting Started forum, but I wasn't quite sure where to post it and figured you'd put it where it would do the most good.
  10. Morning all, guess I've been away for a while, new cases, one for my 100's and the dob, the other with some 82's and things for the SCT. EYEPIECE CASE FOR: Skywatcher Truss 10" dob w/ dual speed Crayford Williams Optics 100° & 110°, 5mm, 9mm & 20mm Zhumell 16mm z100 100° ES 5.5mm 100° ES 82° 6.7mm ES 34mm 68° 2" Barlow ES HRCC EYEPIECE CASE FOR: Celestron 8i SCT w/ GPS ES 8.8mm, 11mm, & 14mm 82° ES 20mm 68° ES 2X Focal Extender Baader Zeiss MK IV Zoom TeleVue 32mm plossl Celstron 6.3 F/R Orion Dielectric diagonal Baader-Zeiss T2 diagonal
  11. Ok, I've changed around a few things to make room for a few things since last time I showed the case, changes are 3 useless TeleVue's are gone, the little Meade 32 is gone, the two X-Cels are also gone. New to the box are an ES Coma Corrector, which has been removed to make room fo the ES 100° 5.5.mm ES 82° 4.7 & 6.7, an ES 68° 34, and of course with 2" eyepieces I made another trip to the sporting goods store and in the flyfishing department I found these boxes then I trimmed the foam liner to fit the filters into and keep them snug. And as the 1.25 filter boxes I have shown before they are easy to open and remove the filters,,,,,,,,Much easier . Yeah, and the case will change again in the near future to make room for the 100° 9mm The CC, and 2" glass are for the 10" truss dob. and the 1.25's are for the SCT, Kinda weird, drove a dob one night, a week later I owned a dob. The use of the coma corrector has put some great resolution in the fov.
  12. Ok, I've changed around a few things to make room for a few things since last time I showed the case, changes are the removal of the TelRad, the addition of a few more eyepieces and another diagonal, a Zeiss Prism.
  13. ok, last reply, Stu, why not just send him yours and let him use it to see if it works for him, that way he won't waste his money if he doesn't like it, it's just that easy.
  14. ok, what ever, you asked for advice on something you've already made your mind up about, why bother asking? EDIT: ok, it the post that is now blank that I had posted a short time ago can't be edited back to what I had in there, it was a lot of rant about spending other peoples money, I'll butt out and go ahead and waste your money. EDIT #2: and of course it will work just fine in your C6 cause it worked in his Mak, two different scopes but what the heck it's just money.
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